My P18 has the same issue. I've just lubed the heck out of it, but I still have to manually push it in to overcome the batten. I never thought of ad...

I ordered some fids and I'm going to try splicing some NE Salsa 9.5mm to some 1/4" dyneema...at least in theory. I ordered a scrap of SK-60 for this ...

While you were splicing did you taper your mainsheet? I saw on the other site you were planning to..

someguyinohio wrote: My rake is where the mast tip is just behind the access port. I don't think I understand this.

mummp wrote: usually at the fold near the bolt hole, more often the rear strap than the front. Thanks.

andrewscott wrote: i have heard of nacra beam straps breaking more than any other beam issues.... ever.. so make sure you hate the center beam before ...

Quarath wrote: I know it's not always possible but it never hurts to see if the seller is willing take you out on the water to show you some basics an...

HULLFLYER wrote: The center beam keeps the front and rear crossbars from twisting. You can remove the bar but you must rivet the beams straps to the c...

The line on their boats allows the jib block to be adjusted fore-aft. I would imagine that since yours is attached only to the rear beam, its essen...

I recently moved mine below the tramp. I have seen quite a few 5.2's, and all of them seem to have the 2 pockets in different places (forward vs back...

erice wrote: wish there was some info arranged like this for the Prindles. Anyone know how long the line for the main with a 6:1 should be. I don't...

Yep..I had the bushings in there already, the connections just hadn't been tightened in quite some time. So, just tightening the bolts worked great. ...

Just curious - what is the purpose of the marine grease? I often see references to it for hull connections.

Tie the jib blocks to a snap shackle, then hook it and unhook it as needed from the clew of the jib. The tack of the main is a bit off the boom. You...

Looks good.

I'd imagine that its a small pain but not _that_ bad. You might have to move the tang on the boom forward a bit, but that's not an issue. The 5.2 ha...

A quick release pin like this: br /> ..makes for a very quick and easy connection where you'd normally use a clevis pin. (as someone on here just po...

mummp wrote: Hullflyer is spot on as for the castings. For the tiller/crossbar, do yourself a favor, and purchase part #56-5516. You will wish you h...

HULLFLYER wrote: It sounds like you are missing 2 very small but important parts. There should be a bushing that goes on the inside of the rudder cast...

turbohobo wrote: Or you can buy nylon shims from your local ace hardware store, dunno about that floating crossbar, all crossbars must rotate freely a...

I doubt the position of the hook really makes a difference other than comfort, as long as its relatively close to your center, and like Scott said abo...

Great info. I love the glassed over decks. I have a 1982 N5.2 with the old style mast...I wish I knew how to convert it to swept spreaders or had a ...

rpiper138 wrote: I saw the title of this and the first thing that came to mind was "My inlaws" (hopefully my wife doesn't read this). lol

4. It?s painfully annoying to use split rings for completing connection of the mast hinge pin and forestay pin and gooseneck pin. Do you guys just use...

Glad you got to fly a hull. Sorry the hull couldn't take it. There are a couple of easy ways to prevent the boat from flipping over you while righti...

I don't think you actually can simplify the P18 Jib Blocks/Sheet system in any way other than removing the barberhauler. I'd say that you really won'...

Spray_in_the_face wrote: My P18 actually went out in 30mph winds gusting (constantly and consistently) to 62. All of the older lines snapped, the clew...

My P18 actually went out in 30mph winds gusting (constantly and consistently) to 62. All of the older lines snapped, the clew ripped out of the jib, ...

How could he trap with an 18" hiking stick?