In cases like this- I install nutplates inside to replace rivets after tear-out. Have a look at floating click bond nutplates part number CB6009CR3-1P...

Add ports to the hull. We either put the soft cooler in the hull then load it up or snap small gear bags to the port lids for quicker access. If you ...

Your diamond wires should be tight enough to hold the mast base in. I see the bolt head in the mast base and slot for the diamond wires (where the bee...

Carbon fiber will galvanically corrode your aluminum beam away very quickly. Not a good idea to wrap carbon over aluminum.

After filing the aluminum spreaders (getting rid of the corrosion and sharp edges) consider coating the exposed aluminum surface with Bonderite M-CR 1...

I am updating the pole on my I20 to have a bit less pre-bend. The hardware used on the current Nacra 18 and 20 work nicely. I will provide part number...

Steve, I had tried to include a photo of the I20 and current NACRA setup. But your photo is better- I believe this is done with the Falcon F16. Hope...

The new urethane tendon setup is also worth considering. After sailing with this- it is smoother and self-centering. You adjust the toe based on where...

Reach out to Dave at RI Hobie Fleet 448.org. He may be able to help you network with a Charlestown member. The "Ocean State" does not have public laun...

In response to your galvanic corrosion comment: Look at your carbon mast- this stainless hardware is likely in good shape after 20 years of stainless ...

Here are some quick answers. 1. I would recommend alodine or bonderite M-CR 1201. This is an aluminum conversion coating using a chemical to convert ...

I sailed all summer in saltwater with the Forerunner 645 without issue. I would recommend this watch to others as a good value. No touch screen to wor...

Stirring the pot here: The bridle foil used on a Nacra 6.0 (and I assume other 5.8 boats) was the aluminum extrusion from a spreader for a mast. You c...

Forgot to mention (maybe obvious, maybe not?) works best if the trailer is attached to the car. If not, someone needs to stand on the tongue of the tr...

Whenever possible, it is preferable to step the mast while the boat is on the trailer. This is preferred because the boat is still tied down and stabl...

I have not purchased it. I can't justify the expense while having good harnesses and PFDs at this time. In my opinion, if the European Union has appro...

Yes, Sand and bevel the inside. Using the West System link above and your sanded hole geometry and thickness, this will help you define the repair pat...

In your thickness measurement, are you including the gelcoat and fairing thickness? It looks like there is gray primer or filler under the white gelco...

I would cut away the bulkhead (as small as possible). Do the repair described above, then wet layup the missing piece of bulkhead. An oscillating saw...

You can absolutely cut to your hatched area. That "Tab" is nothing but a spacer now. May as well give yourself room for sanding. If the resulting hole...

Looking at the photo after grinding; and your hatch location, I would do this repair from inside the hull. You should have the fiberglass repair go ar...

Leadbetter, I just sent you a message. Give me a call to discuss fiberglass and gelcoat methods.

Amine blush is like an oily surface from the epoxy cure (caused by humidity and atmospheric conditions during cure). You need to clean away the oily s...

After the fiberglass is applied it needs to be faired. During the reapair prep, I removed most of the gelcoat (the hulls will not be any heavier after...

I can't answer running the mainsheet forward. But did want to mention new 18-20 ft squaretop boats are running 10:1 or 12:1 8:1 is not enough without...

here is a photo

Have you split the traveler or mainsheet so it has 2 eye straps where the sheet is tied off to the rear beam? This minimizes slack and traveler moveme...

The fiberglass pins were specifically sold for sailing out through the surf- when a rudder would be touching the ground while the boat was pushed back...