What's involved to convert to roller furling?

I am pretty sure this is the same Harken hardware sold at murrays http://www.murr...tore_Code=MS in a kit with both pieces for a lot less at http://www.maur...SMALLBOATFUR
It's even less I think than the used pair for sale in the classifieds here. http://www.theb...at.php?cat=4

On further inspection that one may not be the High Load one but here is the high load for not much more at http://www.pyac...rling-sb.htm

Should be pointed out these are NOT the hobie style systems (they have a ring, not the chainplate adapter

Also i THINK the only difference between the high and low load are the bearing. I upgraded to the tourlon (i know i have spelled it differently every time) when i replaced my bearings (parts were $14 if i recall)

Can you do this with the Zippered Jib style on the P18 or do you need something different?

Also I really don't like the standard turnbuckle on the P18. It's really kind of a pain to tighten and loosen there is nothing to grip to do this by hand you have to have something small to put through the hole in the center and a crescent wrench or something to keep the cable form turning while I do it.

When I get to the point of putting a furler on mine I'd like to maybe look at different turnbuckle options but then I will definatly have to have a custom forstay. I kinda like the the simplicity in your Portuguese turnbuckle but at the same time I am thinking dang can I really trust that thing. I think you have covered it before but what line do you use and is there a good description on how to use it properly anywhere. Also how often do you have to replace it. I don't sail nearly as much as you do but it is still good to know. It be interested in converting to other easier setups as well.

great thread! this is one for the help section for shure. my only advise here is when you assemble and rig it for the first time this season, do it with the original rig first. you will definitely need help stepping the mast and etc. so you will have crew available to help with those "OH S#*T" moments. i'd probably sail her a few times also to tune rudders and adjust mast rake etc.(tune 'er in good) before i wacked anything so you know how its supposed to be then engineer it. first sunny warm day this season jump on it ! then fix what needs it on a crappy day! you will probably end up fixing stuff you never thought about along the way to keep you busy enough. GO SAINTS!!! bill.

Can you do this with the Zippered Jib style on the P18

- yes, if you plan to remove the jib after use you need a zipper (or at least your life will be much easier with one).

Also I really don't like the standard turnbuckle on the P18. It's really kind of a pain to tighten and loosen there is nothing to grip to do this by hand you have to have something small to put through the hole in the center and a crescent wrench or something to keep the cable form turning while I do it.

hole in the center??? cable twists when???

I kinda like the the simplicity in your Portuguese turnbuckle but at the same time I am thinking dang can I really trust that thing.

Yes, you have to know how to tie it off correctly, and you must use good line, or you risk dropping your mast, but we are also trusting a little clevis pin and ring ding to hold up our rig. Also a point of note and trust is with the Hobie style adjuster you can't really get your rigging all that tight (without a wench or system added to the mix) and have to then tighten your rig by putting on a harness (or having crew pull on the trap wires) and tightening your side stay chain plates.

what line do you use and is there a good description on how to use it properly anywhere

I have used regular xls to tie my forestay to turnbuckle. i currently use 4mm dynema with a 5mm cover (cover there to prevent slippage). I use enough to create a 6-1 ratio (three full wraps) and i tighten the crud out of that on heavy air days, and a little less for light air.

edited by: andrewscott, Feb 03, 2010 - 11:56 AM

Also I really don't like the standard turnbuckle on the P18. It's really kind of a pain to tighten and loosen there is nothing to grip to do this by hand you have to have something small to put through the hole in the center and a crescent wrench or something to keep the cable form turning while I do it.

hole in the center??? cable twists when???

This is the stle of turnbuckle on a Prindle. Instead of a clevis pin like pictured though you use a shackle through the bridles. You can see the small hole in the center of it. There is enough tension sometimes that it is hard to turn without by hand without the cable attached to the top trying to turn with it. This makes it tighten in more on the bottom than the top so the overall length's of the threaded bolts going into it are uneven. Anyway it is slightly flattened above the upper lock nut so you can put a crescent wrench around it to keep this from happening but there is nothing flattened on the center of the turnbuckle to allow you to use a wrench to turn that so if you are unable to turn it by hand then you need some small long screwdriver or something that will fit through the tiny hole to make it easier to turn. 🙂

edited by: Quarath, Feb 03, 2010 - 03:50 PM

I switched my P18 to this style, which I found much easier to use.

[quote=andrewscott]

Also a point of note and trust is with the Hobie style adjuster you can't really get your rigging all that tight (without a wench or system added to the mix)

Andrew, I've been looking for one of those to tighten my rig for years. No success, but then you can probably tell why. 🙂

I have been using a Sta/Master turnbuckle and fint it works very well. I'm switching to a standard 10 hole for my roller furler though, because I want to mount a fiddle block on it for a 3:1 downhaul (I know, I know).

D.

edited by: Wolfman, Feb 03, 2010 - 07:17 PM

Quarath wrote:

This is the stle of turnbuckle on a Prindle. Instead of a clevis pin like pictured though you use a shackle through the bridles.

Oh yea.... i gotcha.. i now recall someone rigging their cat like that.
Thanks.. yea, i have no input for that system

Wolfman wrote: Andrew, I've been looking for one of those to tighten my rig for years. No success, but then you can probably tell why. 🙂

Yea, good ones are hard to find 🙂 and keep

Wolfman wrote: I have been using a Sta/Master turnbuckle and fint it works very well. I'm switching to a standard 10 hole for my roller furler though, because I want to mount a fiddle block on it for a 3:1 downhaul (I know, I know).

🙂

edited by: andrewscott, Feb 03, 2010 - 10:05 PM

yurdle wrote: I switched my P18 to this style, which I found much easier to use.

I could probably live with that one at least I can get a grip or a wench on it and it's cotter pined it so it can't accidentally be turned to far out causing the mast to fall. I'd just have to have to custom order forestay with a the different style.

Anyone here ever bought the prindle furler kit from murrays http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=30-5061&Category_Code=C-MO-RF&Store_Code=MS . I assume that the pigtail section at the top has been shortened to make up for the difference with the furler hardware and the actual forstay is the same length?

Note on the turnbuckles, the open style is easier to inspect. I had a mast come down once because of a closed style turnbuckle and the fact that I needed to measure the extent of the thread to get any idea if I was within safe limits. Turns out I wasn't. Nu humans or animals were harmed, but my ego was dented worse than the mast track...

[quote=andrewscott]This (pic from Dave's link above) is hardware overkill... you do not need all this hardware...

This is the exact set up on my '97 N6.0 too. It seemed like a lot of "stuff" when I was first put it together, but I've become accustomed to it. To the best of my knowledge that is the "stock" setup. I've thought about simplification, but the stuffs already there...

what ever works for you... its no big deal

The first couple of times I set the boat up, I was concerned about over purchasing the downhaul and raking the mast forward. It never seemed to happen, but I still agree with the hardware overkill. I just know where to rob an extra block if I need it :). The good part about it is the boat is tight as a drum!