My H18 is loaded with stress cracks around gudgeons which I was thinking of repairing over the winter. Im curious on how the gudgeons are attached. I would figure with nuts and bolts and maybe a plate? If so, how am I ever going to reinstall the nuts?
Is it simply screwed on? I really wouldn't trust threads in fiberglass after removing the screws and then reinstalling them.
Should I just not worry about the stress cracks? My hulls are loaded with them but I dont think that grinding them out and smoothing in some marine filler is going to add any strength....
Edited by car_guy on Nov 03, 2010 - 06:49 AM.
if you are talking about the rudder gudgeons, there should be an aluminum plate glassed in to the inside of the transom.
there is an aluminum plate glassed into the inside of the transom.
Here's some pictures showing the "inside story".
http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=10836&g2_highlightId=10850
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Damon Linkous
Damon if they would have had the fiberglass rudder pins you think this would have been prevented? I think is $11 for a pair and especially if you are running the older style rudder system it would make even more sence to use the breakable pins.
Floyd
Nacra 5.5sl
10 Mile Surfside, Tx
Join us on our Facebook group: Surfside Sailing
fa1321 wrote: Damon if they would have had the fiberglass rudder pins you think this would have been prevented? I think is $11 for a pair and especially if you are running the older style rudder system it would make even more sense to use the breakable pins.
That's actually my 1981 H18 in those pictures. :grrr: The damage happened coming in through the surf at Panama City Beach with old style rudder system that wouldn't release despite nearly tearing the tiller arms off trying to manually release. After that happened I spent the money on the rudder system upgrade.
As far as fiberglass rudder pins I think they are a horrible idea, but one that sounds reasonable on the surface. The problem is that you are trying to solve a problem (rudders won't kick up) by creating an even worse situation in that you can lose the entire rudder system to the watery depths if you break a rudder pin.
Fiberglass pins can break just from the pressure of fast sailing, and when one goes the other is right behind it and suddenly the rudders, castings, tiller arms, and cross bar are not connected to the boat at all. If you are lucky you might keep a hold of the tiller extension, but maybe not.
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Damon Linkous
damonAdmin wrote:
Fiberglass pins can break just from the pressure of fast sailing, and when one goes the other is right behind it and suddenly the rudders, castings, tiller arms, and cross bar are not connected to the boat at all. If you are lucky you might keep a hold of the tiller extension, but maybe not.
Dude that would suck! I just upgraded my rudder system to the newer style systems and EPO's and chose to get the fiberglass pins because I always sail in the surf I would be pissed if I lost my hole set up. Maybe I can add some kind of leash to the tillers just in case.
Floyd
Nacra 5.5sl
10 Mile Surfside, Tx
Join us on our Facebook group: Surfside Sailing
fa1321 wrote: Dude that would suck! I just upgraded my rudder system to the newer style systems and EPO's and chose to get the fiberglass pins because I always sail in the surf I would be pissed if I lost my hole set up. Maybe I can add some kind of leash to the tillers just in case.
Yep, that's an expensive upgrade, it would be a shame to donate it to Neptune. I don't even use aluminum pins any more after having one break in two when I don't think I even hit anything. Besides, like was mentioned on another pin thread, the aluminum ones bend so easy they become impossible to remove without violence.
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Damon Linkous
~~~ Stay away from the Alum & fiberglass ones. ( Don't ask me how I know)... Go with STAINLESS~~~
~~popeyez7~~
~18 Hobie mag~
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~~ Vietnam Vet. 69-71 ~~