What size hog rings?

i use 1/2"

The important thing is to stretch the bungee before pinching the rings. It helps to have a good set of vice grips, and or hold one end in a bench vice.
You have the specialized pliers I hope, it's frustrating without them.

I have always preferred to tie knots. No issues so far.

just to be argumentative... 🙂

(imho) these have their place
knots take up extra bungee and produce ugly balls that are uncomfortable to sit on and can be a real pita to undo

also bungees can act weird and unravel from the ends - using these to cleanly terminate bungees can reduce this (less frays on the ends)

just to be argumentative... 🙂

There's always one...
All fair critiques. I have used them since I had my first H18. A nice double overhand knot fit beautifully in the deck lip for the H18 trap.
Similarly, a stopper knot would terminate at the trap and I would use a cow hitch on the bowline on the end of the trap line to wrap around and tighten against the stopper on the bungee. Quick and easy.

I tie them tight, then cut with a hotknife and if necessary, melt the ends and flatten it.

100% right on untying a well set stopper knot in bungee that's been there for any length of time. Don't bother. I just can't think of a reason I would want to and not replace it.

Edited by badfish on Aug 07, 2019 - 11:55 AM.

Edchris177 wrote: The important thing is to stretch the bungee before pinching the rings. It helps to have a good set of vice grips, and or hold one end in a bench vice.
You have the specialized pliers I hope, it's frustrating without them.

That's good advice I didn't know. On the pliers, I'm buying some as an extended loan/gift to my 80 plus year old catamaran advisor and maintainer. Our boat is in his yard.

badfish wrote:

just to be argumentative... 🙂

There's always one...
All fair critiques. I have used them since I had my first H18. A nice double overhand knot fit beautifully in the deck lip for the H18 trap.
Similarly, a stopper knot would terminate at the trap and I would use a cow hitch on the bowline on the end of the trap line to wrap around and tighten against the stopper on the bungee. Quick and easy.

I tie them tight, then cut with a hotknife and if necessary, melt the ends and flatten it.

100% right on untying a well set stopper knot in bungee that's been there for any length of time. Don't bother. I just can't think of a reason I would want to and not replace it.Edited by badfish on Aug 07, 2019 - 11:55 AM.

I've been slowly trying to reduce the number of metal bits on our boat to reduce wear and possible friction points. For example, I now attach my jib clew with a soft shackle rather than a metal connector. I'm curious about using knots for the bungee. Would you mind taking a picture and posting it for us?

Will do. It'll probably be a couple days though.

badfish wrote: I have always preferred to tie knots. No issues so far.

Somewhere in hell there's a room where they make you untie a wall made of crusty old tightly-knotted bungies to keep away from the advancing flames. :teufel:

Most times, Stopper knots are not that hard to untie. The trick,(as with any proper knot), is to “ break the knot first”. It is also of huge help to soak the lone in soapy water.
Look closely at a bowline, you “see” the one way it can be undone easily? All properly tied knots have the same weak point, granny knots are a different beast.
I watched a Newfoundland fisherman break knots that I thought were unbeatable, it’s all about seeing the place to break. He was using a mallet & bar.
With bungee, the theory is the same, but if the bungee was stretched when tied, it seems to almost weld itself together. Go to your tool box & retrieve 2 pairs of lineman’s pliers, (or smaller vice grips) & a set of good quality needle nose pliers.
Now, locate the weak bight, lock vice grips or lineman’s pliers onto one side of the bight. Using another set, break the bight, now it comes start easy.

Edited by Edchris177 on Aug 09, 2019 - 10:31 PM.

This might help. Page down to the drawing. No more guess work on what size or dimensions.

https://www.suncorstainless.com/hog-ring-shockcord

guess who's knot came undone this weekend while on the wire?

it was no big deal but the timing was comical

MN3 wrote: guess who's knot came undone this weekend while on the wire?

it was no big deal but the timing was comical

😆
Touché MN3, touché.

Edchris177 wrote: The important thing is to stretch the bungee before pinching the rings. It helps to have a good set of vice grips, and or hold one end in a bench vice.
You have the specialized pliers I hope, it's frustrating without them.

You are thinking that the rings will clamp tighter if the bungee is stretched thin?
I haven't been doing this, working on the boat in the field, and had no issues with the rings coming off. I prefer to use 2 when possible.

We did have a Barber hauler block go rogue recently when the rope loop came apart. It was whipped with thread...

Edited by nohuhu on Aug 12, 2019 - 12:53 PM.

You are thinking that the rings will clamp tighter if the bungee is stretched thin?

Yes. You don’t need to stretch them super tight. Stretching makes them thinner, & you can squeeze the hog-ring tighter.
If you have real hog ring pliers, you can clamp the ring right enough, but if you are hillbilly, it is hard to get a tight fit. Stretching will make a good grip easier if you don’t have the proper pliers.
When using two rings, orientate the 2nd ring 180* to the first, same as when using wire rope locks.

Edited by Edchris177 on Aug 13, 2019 - 05:31 AM.