Stainless Tiller Bar - hiking stick fab.

argento102 wrote: Is there a "clamp style" hiking stick
to connect to the bar? Or is it easier to take it to a shop and have it drilled?

D

I'm not sure what you mean? Is it that your tiller bar is a stainless tube that doesn't have a hole in the middle to connect a stick?

If that's it then yes, I'd say drill a hole and use a normal connector.

Just use a standard hand drill and drill a hole exactly in the center of the tube. Buy the yoke assembly from Murrays.com .....Item Number: 01-0062 .......it comes with everything you need to connect your hot stick.

I hope this helps.

Because catamarans have 2 rudders, with 2 tillers, that bar that connects the tillers is called, yes you guessed it, the tiller connector bar.... 😀 With SS you will have to use a punch with a very sharp point, start with very small drill bit, move up to bigger bit, clamp tiller connector bar in vice using soft towel to protect from scratches/teeth marks.....or take it to a tool shop and have it done for you, just let them know not to mark the rod.

Just don't heat it too much and step the bit a couple times and you should be OK. If you haven't drilled stainless before you might practice on something else first.

However, why not buy an aluminum tube, cut the end, drill a hole, and be done? The material costs less than $15 and cuts/drills like butter.

Do you have a screw type fitting on one end of the connector bar, used to align the rudders, or a solid connector & your rudders are in good aligment? If so, keep what you have. If you make a new one out of aluminum tube, be sure to get the thicker walled tubing, & align the rudders first, so you know exactly how long of a tube you need. You can play a wee bit when drilling the holes to attach the tillers to make sure the rudders are in good alignment. It is probably easier to buy a used connector bar with adjuster from Dan Berger through the classifieds.
You can drill SS, but save some grief, buy a $5 cobalt bit, it will last for many holes. Use any kind of oil as cutting lube, to take away the heat & not ruin the bit. If you can use a buddies drill press, it makes alignment of the holes through the tube easy.
I purchased an Ariba FX3(4?) for my Cat, it came with the proper U joint connector. You need the long stik for solo sailing, the shorter ones won't allow you to move forward.

I have the pin / hasp type of connector. Thanks for the advice guys. I'll pick up a cobalt bit and make the
hole for the yolk style connector.

Grazi Grazi Grazi!

Why use stainless, the boat isn't heavy enough? Aluminum is fine.

When you are drilling make sure you make an indent with a center punch or a big nail first (to keep the bit from moving when you are starting the hole). Also don't use full speed, when drilling stainless, drill slow, or you will end up burning the bit even when using cutting fluid.

D.

Wolfman wrote: When you are drilling make sure you make an indent with a center punch or a big nail first (to keep the bit from moving when you are starting the hole). Also don't use full speed, when drilling stainless, drill slow, or you will end up burning the bit even when using cutting fluid.

And once you've heated the stainless it becomes harder than diamond, no matter how many $25 bits you throw at it...

Do you have a screw type fitting on one end of the connector bar, used to align the rudders, or a solid connector & your rudders are in good aligment? If so, keep what you have. If you make a new one out of aluminum tube, be sure to get the thicker walled tubing, & align the rudders first, so you know exactly how long of a tube you need. You can play a wee bit when drilling the holes to attach the tillers to make sure the rudders are in good alignment. It is probably easier to buy a used connector bar with adjuster from Dan Berger through the classifieds.

I had the tiller xbar and adjuster but couldn't get quite the right length without a bunch of cutting and drilling, so I just set a new tube on top of them, marked it and cut it. The tube is so cheap that imo it's disposable. I wouldn't buy an adjuster. Actually, i'd happily sell one. =)

Actually, i'd happily sell one. =)

Put your old connector with adjuster on the classifieds, they seem to sell pretty quick.

Why use stainless,

I agree, but I think it came that way.

I have the pin / hasp type of connector.

Not sure the difference between pin/hasp & yoke type.
Here is what works well. The little 1/2 concave spacers prevent crushing the tube,& prevents the hole from wearing, resulting in slop. The bolt goes through the hole you just drilled, (it's 1/4")

If that is what you need, I think I have a brand new one that came with a new hiking stik. I can send it to you for a few bucks. If you order one from Murrays, call them & ask to just put it in a an envelope, that will save you most of the $30 standard shipping charge.

Edited by Edchris177 on Aug 16, 2011 - 01:13 PM.

Here's the picture link in members albums....

http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=80248

it's in my album, first pic. I couldn't figure how to post a pic here from my desktop.

Headhunter wrote: Why use stainless, the boat isn't heavy enough? Aluminum is fine.

18ft Cat's 380lbs...came with SS tiller, id like to use it.

**If that is what you need, I think I have a brand new one that came with a new hiking stik. I can send it to you for a few bucks.

What are you looking to get for it shipped? 😀

Wow, that gear looks like new! I now understand what your original post meant. It will be fairly easy to drill the tubing, just be sure to center punch a mark, so the bit doesn't wander when starting. Measure the center pont between the ends of the connector bar, orientate the hole on the circumference so your stik lines up in the best position.

You can have my yoke for $5, not sure what rip off Canada post will send it for. If not in a hurry I can probably drop it off right after the Labour Day long w/e, my daughter goes to Queens U, I'll by driving right by Port Hope.

Do you really need the yoke, though? What are you planning to use as a hiking stik? I can't remember where I got mine, an arriba fibreglass FX3(4?)$139 & they didn't charge for oversize shipping. You need a fairly long one, for Cats, the short dinghy ones are just not long enough. Salty Dog, APS, Mauri pro, or even West Marine, or Fogh in Toronto should be able to get them. They come with the yoke shown in the photo above. No need to purchase a yoke if you are getting a new stik.

Thanks Ed,

The cat is in pretty tight shape. It was dry stored mostly. I've called Rob @ FOGH about a stick.

I think it is worth the extra money to buy a good one. The only complaint I had with the Arriba FX was the grip on the end. It is NOT secured. I was trapping up near the front beam one day, beating back into my bay. I had it fully extended, & was holding the grip. The damn thing came off. I had quite a bit of weather helm at that time, & when a 30 lb pull is suddenly not there, & the tiller is flying off the to the other side, I went one way, the boat the other, ended up swimming.
I don't know if you get into where Fogh is, it might well be $25 to ship it. West can probably get one in, I drew blanks when I asked for an "arriba", but they knew what an FX3(4) was.
Make sure they don't charge you for the yoke, it should come with it.