My pumps for epoxy broke so I was forced to make another type of percentage mixing process. Take waxed paper cups, push, push pin trough cup for 1 part hardner. Now with cup, use water to make up your percentage in another cup. Dry cups, and push pin in to make up your non-hardner. Take sharpie and dot the raised surface of paper of holes made by puch pin on inside of the cups, so that you can see how high to pour liquids, hardner first, then resin. You should now have 2 colored dots. Try to keep them lined up. Place tape over holes and cut down cups to size, if you're using large cups. Take strip of paper and used this to make a guide from top to bottom where holes in cups should go. Use this guide to mark other cups. Now, you can pour hardner in several cups, based upon what you'll need, and as you spread resin, you'll only have to add resin to cups that already have hardner. Make sure you mix good for about a minute bringing plastic knife from bottom to top. Plastic knives are good as you can spatula all the goo out of cups. I use plastic from all types of plactic bottles for spreading resin. Just cut them up and round corners before starting. When you are done, throw everything in the trash including cups, knives, squeege, and plastic gloves. Easy. Oh, use dry cheap Home Depot 2-3" paint brush to spread cloth. U can also use brush to push resin into corners, using a dab method.
I'll never buy pumps again as you are confined to the percentages of pumps. Cups can to done for any volume you need with method above.
Edited by goodsailing on Mar 13, 2015 - 12:43 PM.
Graduated plastic or paper mixing cups work best in my experience. They have the most versatility and you're not at the mercy of the hand pump dispenser volumes. Plastic cups can be reused several times if you clean them out when the epoxy is wet. A few bucks will get you a sleeve of cups. I would not recommend using waxed paper cups. The wax will inevitably be scraped off into the epoxy as you mix.
sm
Steve M.
The cups I get hardly have any wax. I've actually put saw dust in epoxy, lots of saw dust, from sander and micro balloons when filling gaps so any microscopic wax if any will hardly be noticed using straight resin. And those graduated cups... at nearly a buck a piece, that you can clean if you want. No thanks. Besides, paper cups are renewable resources, plastic cups are not.
I used 8 paper cups today purchased at grocery store by the 40 pack, 2 plastic knives, one sqeegie cut from detergent bottle and one pair of plastic gloves bought at beauty store for $9 per hundred and spread approximately 18 sq ft over 4oz FB cloth for a particular project and everything went into the trash when finished. No solvents, no rags, no smell no clean up.
To each his own. I prefer not to risk contaminating a batch of epoxy with wax or screwing up the mix ratio, both of which can be avoided by using a $0.25 graduated plastic mixing cup.
sm
Steve M.
OK, I'm about to raise the mast on this boat to finish rigging starting with the trap wires. I have bungie. Where do I attach the bungie. Are there two section? The bungie I took off had two sections. The static line coming from the trapeze wire was tied to the bungie. So it appeared an inverted v shape would have been formed hanging from it? It seems best to tie the static to the back of the boat up to first hole, then up to static line for aft trapeze. The opposite for the front trapzee. But I'm not sure the elasticity will extend from all the way back to where it's tied of as the center hole will restrict movement? Anyone know how to tie these? Thanks.
I'm not clear what you are calling the two sections or what you mean by "inverted v".
But the standard bungee setup on the H18 is very simple. Look under the deck lip near the bow and stern about 7 feet forward and back from the two holes on each side of the shroud. you will find a small stainless eyestrap rivited to the deck lip.
You tie the trap bungee to the eye strap, then route it to the closest "deck hole", up through the hole and tie it to the adjustment line on the trap wire.
Have you got the assembly manual? There isn't much detail about the trapeze rigging but there is a good picture on page 11 (figure 23) of the bungee to trap connection.
Download the manual here.
http://static.hobiecat.com/digital_assets/H18%26SX_Manual.pdf
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Damon Linkous
Thanks. The way the previous owner had it rigged had me wonder about proper rigging.
I'm preparing to fix the aft port deck and since I've had problems in the past with epoxy setting up too quick in a horse syringe I was wondering if simply pouring epoxy over the holes and using a squeege to squish the epoxy into the holes would work. I'd use a thin welding rod bent at tip to finesse the foam/ epoxy to remove air via the holes. Also, gravity will help the process as well. This is my back up method but since I'm out of syringes thought I posed the question before going over to Southern States to get the needles.
I have tried attempting to "push" the epoxy into the holes with squeegee, and it is not as foolproof as using the syringes. The syringe really gets the liquid into the sandwich, whereas the squeegee method is hit or miss
I would use the syringe if at all possible
Pouring the epoxy into the holes is not going to work at all - it's going to create a huge mess. The epoxy needs to be forced between the layers of the deck, gravity is not going to me sufficient. Use a quality epoxy in conjunction with a the proper hardener for the temperature and working time you need and you shouldn't have any problems. But, if you're still concerned about exotherm (cooking off the epoxy), then you can mix the epoxy in a large container and only pull a small amount into the syringe at a time.
The other important thing is to mask off the entire area you're working on. Cover the whole area with masking tape first and then drill your holes (thru the masking tape). Epoxy is inevitably going to ooze out of the holes and if it gets into the non-skid, it will create a mess. Do all your injecting and when the epoxy goes green (semi-cured), peel off the masking tape. Have some paper towels and acetone ready just in case the epoxy does get on the hull you want to wipe it off immediately.
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Steve M.
I got the syringes this morning 90mm horse tubes. Good idea on taping. (If you roughed up the deck first wouldn't the epoxy adhear to the deck. Then you throw in a little sand to make it really non skid.?
throw in a little sand to make it really non skid.?
not sure where you are repairing but that sounds painful (and bloody) if its in an area you may slide around on your boat
MN3
Rear deck behind the aft xbar. I did this to a stand up paddle board I made and rowed a considerable distance in bare feet with no problems instead of buying that sand paper material made especially for this purpose.. Not sure how that would turn out on this section. Probably better to just do what's recommend. You can always cover the repair with that spungy deck material used on jet skis and sometimes used to cover the whole decks of cat hulls.
Rear deck behind the aft xbar. I did this to a stand up paddle board I made and rowed a considerable distance in bare feet with no problems
Gotcha.
on a SUP, you aren't tacking or gybing (or capsizing) at 20+knots and the effect of some grit on your deck (and skin) may have very different results when inertia is applied,
i personally would purchase that spongy material (and need to for my new cat thats imron paint is pretty darn slippery ) -
MN3
As an avid motorcycle rider too, effect of inertia is duly noted. Spongy soft material might work better indeed. 😎
Looks like the bracket with the deadeye that holds the main sheet is about to pop rivets. How much stress is on this that I might drill out and re-rivet. I suspect that even if it did pop out you would still have a main sheet that you could back back to shore.
goodsailing wrote: How much stress is on this that I might drill out and re-rivet. I suspect that even if it did pop out you would still have a main sheet that you could back back to shore.
I don't know if that would be a matter of life or death but it could be a PITA
if you capsize all your line could pay out, or you come "off the cleat" while anchored ... your boat could try to sail away, etc
i would definitely fix that before I sailed with gear like that
I failed to change a "little thing" last weekend, and i almost went swimming because of it
MN3
goodsailing wrote: Looks like the bracket with the deadeye that holds the main sheet is about to pop rivets. How much stress is on this that I might drill out and re-rivet. I suspect that even if it did pop out you would still have a main sheet that you could back back to shore.
I don't know if anyone has actually had one of those rip loose, but there can be a LOT of force on it. There is forward force from working the traveler, and then sometimes large sideways force during a jibe when the sail slams over to the new side.
If it did break off, all the force would be transferred to the traveler which would probably immediately fail and now you've got five pounds of metal flinging around trying to take your teeth out. Of course this would happen during a sudden storm or when you are in the path of a ship.
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Damon Linkous
Most likely it is not just that the rivets have worked loose, but that the aluminum crossbar material has corroded away due to galvanic reaction with the stainless rivets and mainsheet bracket. Simply replacing the rivets will not solve the problem if the holes in the crossbar have eroded to the point that the rivets won't grab.
I had this issue on my 1985 H18. The aft rivets for the bracket had pulled out and would not grab the crossbar. My solution was to drill through to the top of the crossbar and then thru bolt the bracket at the effected holes using #10 machine screws and nuts. I also bedded the bracket in epoxy where it contacts the crossbar to act as a galvanic barrier and help prevent further corrosion.
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Steve M.
the aluminum crossbar material has corroded away
It's not that bad. There's only a 1/64 gap showing on the rivets. It's stable, not loose to the touch. I'll might try drilling out. If riveting does not secure it, then the through bolt idea might work. Does it matter if it is dead center? What if I moved the bracket over an inch into fresh metal.
i misunderstood - i thought you meant the eyestrap at the bottom of the main blocks
losing you mainsheet attachment point would be about the same as your steering wheel falling off your car and your gas and brake peddles breaking off at the same time
MN3 wrote: [quote=goodsailing]How much stress is on this that I might drill out and re-rivet. I suspect that even if it did pop out you would still have a main sheet that you could back back to shore.
I don't know if that would be a matter of life or death but it could be a PITA
if you capsize all your line could pay out, or you come "off the cleat" while anchored ... your boat could try to sail away, etc
i would definitely fix that before I sailed with gear like that
I failed to change a "little thing" last weekend, and i almost went swimming because of it
MN3
You could also move the bracket over slightly, but then you are adding another four holes in close proximity to the existing holes in the bottom of the crossbar. If those holes eventually corrode, then you're really in a fix. Plus the dead eye would obviously be off center.
Another option, which would be more difficult but not impossible, would be to add washers to the inside of the crossbar so the rivets have something to grab onto with the current holes. To me, thru-bolting seemed like the easiest and strongest option. If you sail in salt water, I would definitely also look into galvanically isolating the bracket/fasteners from the crossbar because it will eventually corrode. This could be as simple as placing a few pieces of electrical tape between the crossbar and bracket and installing the fasteners with Tefgel.
sm
Steve M.
goodsailing wrote:
It's not that bad. There's only a 1/64 gap showing on the rivets. It's stable, not loose to the touch.
If it's not loose, you can't wiggle it around even when pull it hard up and down side to side then just leave it alone and monitor, you've got other projects. 😎
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Damon Linkous
why not drill and go to the next size rivet (up)?
(if and when needed)
Edited by MN3 on Mar 18, 2015 - 12:10 PM.
MN3
why not drill and go to the next size rivet (up)?
Good idea.
Alright, got the boat out and set it up to hoist the mast, this after watching the 2 part "How to rig a Hobiecat 18" on Youtube. No friggin luck. Nearly less than 1/4 of the mast is all you have for leverage standing on the tramp which is not nearly enough for me to hoist it. The diamond wires getting in the way made it more awkward. Not sure if the late 70's boat masts were made heavier but... I'm no weight lifter, but I'm not a slouch either. Is the mast in the video lighter. It looks thinner than mine. So the question is: am I confined to having crew to get the mast hoisted? Is there a technique I'm missing. Do you heave up, and get it on your shoulder, then up? I was hoping to solo this rig to get it in the water. Thanks for your help.
am I confined to having crew to get the mast hoisted?
yes until you master question #2
Is there a technique I'm missing.
yes (see question #1)
Do you heave up, and get it on your shoulder, then up?
no
I was hoping to solo this rig to get it in the water.
why? you need at least 2 other people.
1 to help step the mast
and
1 to video tape it when / as it goes wrong for youtube and this site
That being said:
solo stepping an h18 (or any cat) is all about technique and leverage
I park my boat so i can take advantage of any angle i can along the beach (every degree helps)
I use my trailer mast yoke (that is about 6' in the air) to hold my (pinned) mast at an angle
then i get my shoulder against the mast and push off with the back foot on the back crossbar
i walk it up as i move forward...
then i sheet in my spinnaker halyard that i have attached to my Portuguese turnbuckle to secure the mast in the upright position as i walk the forestay foreward, and attach it to the Portuguese turnbuckle.
not sure how your gonna do that last part solo - getting someone to help is much easier
- you could put a shackle on your bridal furler, run a safety line from your forestay - through it - and back to the mast. After you step, you could snug up that line and walk forward... but ..... thats a lot of leverage working against you.
If you elevate the sterns a few feet somehow... once you have the mast "up" it will stay have gravity holding it forward
When i had my h18 - i started with an easy-step jinpole
Edited by MN3 on Mar 18, 2015 - 02:35 PM.
MN3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DO4RxwvjKtM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBqqouG9azY
HTH
Edited by the-renovator on Mar 18, 2015 - 02:45 PM.
The first video is a h16 - it uses a tilted trailer for leverage on a smaller and lighter mast that has no diamond wires
the second video uses a ginpole to assist on a heavier and longer mast with diamond wires
the-renovator wrote: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DO4RxwvjKtM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBqqouG9azY
HTHEdited by the-renovator on Mar 18, 2015 - 02:45 PM.
Edited by MN3 on Mar 18, 2015 - 02:52 PM.
MN3
Yep!
Neighbor's must have had a gas watching my fail to get it up. HA. Yes, having at least one extra person to video [del]tape [/del]a crash is a good idea. But I doubt seriously I'll have anyone to to help. So ... I've seen both of these videos.. thanks. I don't have tilt, and the one gin pole shown is a tad klugee. So here's what I found. I can build this for hardly any money.
I have a winch on the trailer (Y post that holds mast) so I don't think I'll need one on this pole. pretty simple set up. See his note that he added a T at the base to keep the post from moving up or down the mast. I could trace the mast shape on piece of 2x4 to shape wood. Adding only two blocks to each side of main beam should keep it stable. No need to shape forward end near winch.
http://skipmeisch.com/slowflight/upgrades/tips-GinPole.html lso
Also , if you put your boat on trailer bow facing rear, you could place a block on aft part of trailer. Using the winch at car end will pull gin pole down, towards rear of trailer perhaps taking care of the problem mentioned above.by MN3. Actually, this could be much better as mast is elevated at start using y post on trailer. Winch line runs under boat in this case.
Edited by goodsailing on Mar 18, 2015 - 06:26 PM.