Ok here it is, the master thread. With as many older Hobie cat 18's that may be worked on to renew to safe sailing condition, let's just use this link.
We've discussed righting lines and systems, mast leaking and booms and by all means one may put any question here regarding fixing up their boat including topics already discussed. Initially I had asked if one thread would work, but getting no answer I proceeded to list multiple threads about individual subjects and as a result of learning others have similar questions and answers, perhaps one place would serve to handle all of it.
We were discussing boom cars. The car I was referring to slides in a track between the two rope jams closest to the gooseneck. The piece of metal is the same fitting that is used to screw the the rope jams down yet is not as high. It moves freely back and forth between the two rope jam cleats bulkheads, which stops it's movement at both cleats. It has a hole in the center and two holes that run parallel to the track. There's already a bungie at the aft end of the boom with the same fitting. What does the inner car do? And is there something that comes out of the hole, a pulley etc.? I'd post a pic but do not have an external photo account to post a link.
Edited by goodsailing on Feb 25, 2015 - 09:38 AM.
with the same fitting
Correction: there is not the same fitting that slides freely between the outer outhaul jam cleats. The outer bungie is tied off through the holes in the bulkheads that the jam cleats are screwed into, aft end of the middle jam cleat
Without a picture of what you are describing, it is hard to know for sure, but I would say it is either one of two things:
1) Something custom that a previous owner created (possibly some type of mast rotation device or other gizmo). Definitely not something stock.
2) A barber hauler system. The very, very, very early Hobie 18s had a "barber hauler" system for the jib. The system had lines that were connected near the midpoint of the boom at one end with a cleat, and each end of the line had a stainless ring that ran out to the jib sheets (between the jib blocks). This allowed you to pull the jib sheet farther inboard (i.e., close the slot).
I don't recall ever seeing this system in person as it was quickly abandoned and no one uses this system anymore. If your boat is from the '70s, I would guess that is probably what the part is you're referring to. If this is what's on your boat, I would remove it. As I said, it is something that was quickly abandoned by Hobie.
sm
Steve M.
In the hobie 18 manual they show a pully there. It must have been used for increasing torque on the outhaul. I take it that now, there's only one main sail outhaul at the aft sail foot which utilizes the bungie to spring the sail towards the gooseneck when loosening the outhaul line. Correct?
deleted
Edited by goodsailing on Feb 25, 2015 - 02:17 PM.
.jpg)
Is this what your looking for?
No that's on the aft end of the boom. The little gismo slides between the rotator outhaul jam cleat, which is the first cleat from the gooseneck and slides to the middle boom jam cleat. The photo I displayed is the gooseneck side of the boom not the aft end of the boom. The outhaul featured is in the cleat closest to the mast and that outhaul goes through the old style pulley located on the mast rotator. Nice illustration though. Thanks!
Edited by goodsailing on Feb 25, 2015 - 01:40 PM.
Your link takes me to a google page with a message saying I don't have permission to view it and has a button to request permission.
Ron Beliech
Nacra F-18
Brandon, MS
Here's how to create your own photo albums and post pictures in the forum.
http://www.thebeachcats.com/faq/Photo%20Gallery/how-do-i-upload-photos/
Ron Beliech
Nacra F-18
Brandon, MS
http://www.shop.mariner-sails.com/Boom-CLEAT-CLAMP-Hobie-18-HC-61711000.htm
This may be what your seeing?
Ron Beliech
Nacra F-18
Brandon, MS
I read through all this but it points you to outside vendors for posting pics. What I need is the upload form for here to create an album at this domain.
Yes that is the part but what does it do in there? It's sliding back and forth between the two jam cleats.
goodsailing wrote:
I read through all this but it points you to outside vendors for posting pics. What I need is the upload form for here to create an album at this domain.
Yes that is the part but what does it do in there? It's sliding back and forth between the two jam cleats.
In the menu at the top of this page go to Photo Albums, member personal albums.
Click on add album in the left border above the search all albums bar.
That takes you to the setup.
Yes that is the part but what does it do in there? It's sliding back and forth between the two jam cleats.
This is what the clamcleats are bolted to. 2 per cleat.
Ron Beliech
Nacra F-18
Brandon, MS
This is what the clamcleats are bolted to. 2 per cleat.
I wonder why there's a spare one in there running around as all the cleats have them?
Edited by goodsailing on Feb 25, 2015 - 03:03 PM.
goodsailing wrote:
I wonder why there's a spare one in there running around as all the cleats have them?
Someone might have lost one in there and didn't want to drill the end caps off again so just left it. When you are dealing with 40 years of boat history you never know what went on.
For your Hobie 18 repair project pictures, feel free to create albums in the Beachcat Technical album. Give each album descriptive titles like "Hobie 18 Boom Rebuild" etc. to help the next guy.
Instructions are in my signature and here.
http://www.thebeachcats.com/faq/Photo%20Gallery/how-do-i-upload-photos/
Let me know if you have trouble. One thing these days is that although there is no specified limit for the size of the the pictures you upload, they will be re-sized after upload, pictures straight out of a camera these days can be over 4,000 pixels wide and several megabytes each. So if you can learn how to resize you pics down to 1600 max pixels everything will go more smoothly.
I use a good free tool for quick resizes,
http://www.irfanview.com/
it even does batch resizes and renames the resulting files. That way you can change a bunch of images from 3mb files with names like img3232323.jpg to 300k files with descriptive names like mast-rebuild-1.jpg, mast-rebuild-2.jpg etc. Makes it a lot easier on you when you need to find the files later on your computer.
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Damon Linkous
I have the opportunity to buy Cat trax for hobie 16. Will the that work for hobie 18? If not can you get extensions. I'm not sure the beam of both 16 and 18. Thanks in advance.
Yes, they will work fine. You may want to get some hull cradles if not included with the trax.
sm
Steve M.
Yes, they will work fine. You may want to get some hull cradles if not included with the trax.
Cool, thanks for the info...
Here's the aft end of the boom. Note corrosion has eaten through. The end cap, which was aluminum is really corroded on the inside. I'm not sure if it is salvageable or not. New one's are $58 special order from Murry's. I plan on patching holes with epoxy micro balloons and will use small fiber on the end as backing. Sand then paint. It will look new when finished.
goodsailing wrote: Here's the aft end of the boom.
For the corrosion at the end of the boom, I would probably just nip 1/2" off the end of the boom by carefully cutting it with a sharp hack saw blade. The boom on the 18 is a bit longer than it needs to be, so I don't think this would be a problem.
For the holes in the body of the boom, I would just sail it like it is. The 18 boom is pretty bomb proof, so I think you'll be OK. The boom on my 18 has had one fairly large corrosion hole similar to yours for a long time and it has been OK.
I would recommend you pull off the stainless block hangers and check to make sure there's no corrosion at the rivet holes or under the straps. If there is, clean it up really well, and re-assemble with a barrier between the stainless and aluminum (either electrical tape or tef-gel grease). Also, if you plan to upgrade to a single triple block on the boom, you should angle the middle boom bale forward about 15-20 degrees, and you could do that at the same time.
sm
Steve M.
Thanks for the tip to trim the tip. Hadn't thought of that, but need chop saw which I have to make it square so end cap will fit flush.
Couldn't you just drill out the rivets of 3 boom blocks and use through bolts to make it into a tripple? Hate to pay $ for tripple...
http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=113043
Edited by goodsailing on Feb 27, 2015 - 12:17 PM.
Nope, driving the pins from one of the boom blocks busted the plastic. Hence not a good idea to make a tripple from 3 single blocks. Seaways have seen better days. I'll try the 2 boom block technique as shown here on different thread.
I took Dogboy's recommendation and hacked off the end of the boom and refreshed the out hull with new line and bungie. Even though the end cap had considerable corrosion it cleaned up OK. Fortunately I scribed lines on the boom before the hack off to ensure I could drill holes that matched holes in cap. I was dead on for rivets with no additional material taken from cap. I used silicone to patch the holes. Since I broke one of the pulley's (it wasn't working anyway) I wonder if this configuration of the main sheet would work using only 2 boom pulley's. I'm not sure about the amount of torque needed as this has a rachet and jam. My main concern is ease at letting out etc. Not a kid. But not a weight lifter either.
Thanks for any responses...
You can see pics in my gallery. Here are the blocks...
I wonder if this configuration of the main sheet would work using only 2 boom pulley's.
i got rid of my sea-way's and purchased harken carbo triple tops and only used the center bale (if i recall correctly - whichever one hung most inline with the beam)
MN3
i got rid of my sea-way's and purchased harken carbo triple tops and only used the center bale (if i recall correctly - whichever one hung most inline with the beam)
Yea Yea Yea, I know. I've been eyeing all the bling. I'm not sure how the whole rig will fly so I'm being a tad conservative with parts until I sail it to learn if any major work needs done before springing for items. I've barely looked at the sail yet..etc. I was in tractor supply today looking at wheels and tires 20x10 for up and coming cat trax project and happened to see pulleys at $9.99 each. They spun pretty freely and at what it cost for Harkins, you could have new pulleys every year for the next 10 years or so! Rated at 400lbs and pretty shinny. But I held off...
goodsailing wrote: Yea Yea Yea, I know. I've been eyeing all the bling. I'm not sure how the whole rig will fly so I'm being a tad conservative with parts until I sail it to learn if any major work needs done before springing for items. I've barely looked at the sail yet..etc. I was in tractor supply today looking at wheels and tires 20x10 for up and coming cat trax project and happened to see pulleys at $9.99 each. They spun pretty freely and at what it cost for Harkins, you could have new pulleys every year for the next 10 years or so! Rated at 400lbs and pretty shinny. But I held off...
goodsailing, believe me I completely understand avoiding buying stuff, but sometimes...
To replace your broken single block just buy a used one. They should be easy to find and cost less than the postage to mail them. There is nothing much to do with them once you go to a multiblock system so they get put in the parts box we all have.
On making home-made beach wheels, it's really a non-starter, knock yourself out if you enjoy learning your own lessons but no, you can't make your own beach wheels that work anywhere as good as the real thing for any cheaper than you can buy a used set. For that reason used ones sell quick, so keep your eye out.
There have been some good attempts over many years but even the ones that did the best versions came to the conclusion that it wasn't worth it. The only exceptions are those building wheels to only roll on hard surfaces (not sand) that can get away with using wheel barrel or ATV wheels and tires or tires made of plastic barrels etc.
I need to gather all the home-made versions in one folder sometime.
Also, any chance you could share an actual name with us? Even just a first name, all the code-names get to me sometimes. Unless of course your mother named you goodsailing which would be quite a coincidence. 😀
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Damon Linkous
If you happen to own a machine shop check out this thread on building your own beach wheels.
http://www.thebeachcats.com/index.php?module=forums&func=viewtopic&topic=14435
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Damon Linkous
You need a 20 x 10 lawn saver wheel and tire. Club Cadet. The only problem is that inside the hole of the wheel is a lip that prohibits a round steel tube, axle, from going all the way through. I gather a drill or reamer could cut it out, opening up the hole so that the tube can run through. This is the only quick solution I'm investigating at the moment. Wheels and tires are $85 each. Tubing, washers, pins $20. Then there's welding the bracket for the hull rests that will include the pvc pipe. I'm looking at less than $200 total build. No wheel bearings. I weld. BB if you need a name.
Also need beach wheels for my tri. So I could use different length axle for that as the main hull is only 18" wide at the bottom. Cat/Tri traks so to speak. BB
For the mainsheet system, you're going to want an absolute minimum of 6:1 purchase (unless you're built pike a gorilla). I'm no beefcake, but at 6'-3", 200lbs, I use every bit of my harken 7:1 mainsheet system when the wind is up. I realize that dropping a lot of cash on an older boat may not make a lot of sense, but trying to sail with junk gear doesn't make sense either. Your mainsheet and your rudder system are your connections to the boat. If you're going to plunk down any money or put any effort into your boat, tbis is where you want to do it.
sm
Steve M.