Hello, I just bought a P16 here in Houston Texas and I have a question. My rudders lock into place but I am worried that they might not release if they hit something. Is the force required to get them to release adjustable? I looked through the manual but did not see anything on that, (I have not had it long and may have overlooked something in the manual).
Also, it seems like removing the rudders is the best bet for trailering. Your thoughts.
Nice place you have here, happy to have found it!
Mike
The rudders need a hard tug to pop up. make sure the sheaves and lines in there are in really good shape. Also check for bent bolts, most of mine were bent badly.
For tailering and storage I use a pair of wooden blocks shaped like the holes in the rudder castings, I tie them in and set the rudders on them
Everything is in pretty good shape, considering it is a 1982 hull #. I did notice that the jam cleats on the rudder arms seem worn out. They don't look to be hard to change though.
I had thought about blocking them up like that, just not sure if the bouncing around would be hard on the transoms.
makinmajik wrote: Everything is in pretty good shape, considering it is a 1982 hull #. I did notice that the jam cleats on the rudder arms seem worn out. They don't look to be hard to change though.
I had thought about blocking them up like that, just not sure if the bouncing around would be hard on the transoms.
Hey makinmjik:
I'm new to the forum (this is my first post!), but not new to cats. I used to sell and assemble 'em waay back when. I've owned and raced several, sailed many, and just yesterday picked up a honey of a used P-16 after many years of not owning a boat. Needless to say, I'm stoked to sail! 😀
anrkii's wood block idea is a good one for quick tows out to the lake and back. The transoms on your boat are super tough, so the rudders bouncing around aren't likely to stress the hulls themselves, especially on short, smooth highway trips. However, the prolonged effect of jouncing and the weight of the rudders can begin to stress the hardware back there (gudgeons, rudder castings, etc.) and cause things to loosen up. Not to mention the damage done if one of your rudders were to drop unexpectedly and grind along on the highway for a while...ouch! (I've seen it happen on both Hobies and Prindles!) 🙁
Personally, I remove the rudders altogether. It's not really much of a chore. It takes a couple of fiddly minutes if you have the tools handy -- a few bolts, a simple knot tied/untied four times, and presto: peace of mind. Just my 2 cents...
Enjoy the ride! 😎
--chasm
Remove them, 2 pretty easy ways.
1. Use figure 8 stoppers knots in the lines connected to the rudders then you can ouch them out of the hole an untie them easily. Remove one bolt and the rudder is off. Ties the 2 lines together so they can't undue all the rigging in the rudder. That would be bad. Leave the casting where they are.
2. This is what I do now. pull the pins holding them to the transoms. Fold each side in along the long tiller piece they are attached to. you may need to loosen the lines holding the rudders up so you can line the rudders up with each other. Tie a line or bungie around the center and throw it in the cat box. Goes on and off pretty quick. Is easier with a helper but can be done by yourself.
Dustin
Magna, UT
Prindle 18
I use easy way 1 that Quarath suggested. It takes a few minutes to tie/untie the lines and undo the bolts but its worth the time to keep everything in good condition. I also bungie the tiller (not the extension) to the tramp so its not moving during tow.
I have tried both methods and frankly feel way more comfortable with the rudders off entirely. Very quick pin pull, lay rudder on tramp, pull the other pin, fold em up nice and neat and stow.