Painting Carbon Mast

Its the UV in the sunlight that wil damage a carbon mast.
At our club, the carbon masts of the Tornados are painted with
clear-coat with a UV filter, every other year.
edit: So they are black.
But we are not in the (sub)tropics.
Can't see a reason you can not paint you're mast any colour
you like, as long as it is blocked from sunlight.
And with the right paint. A 2 component paint, based on
polyurethane, wil do the job.
For example, the French racers have their masts painted in
wide variety of colors.

A

Edited by catmodding on Apr 22, 2017 - 07:53 PM.

Technically the higher the temprature cured epoxy is the softer it gets. Below about 130F I don't think it is a real concern. So if you are sailing in the Mojave desert it may be an issue, but otherwise not so much.

The color of the mast is Matterhorn White... If you do this, do not sand the mast... clean it with light amount of comet cleanser... and then rinse and wash with soapy water..

I did this no because the colors didn't match, the mast was pretty beat up and needed some rehab... With that, and IMPO.. this a lot of work to do just because the colors don't match.... especially if your going to use the two part epoxy product... which is what you should use.

Edited by JohnES on Apr 22, 2017 - 01:38 PM.

JohnES wrote: especially if your going to use the two part epoxy product... which is what you should use.Edited by JohnES on Apr 22, 2017 - 01:38 PM.

Don't think so. Every boatshop, marine paint-shop recommends 2 component polyurethane
based paint for the mast overhere.
Why, when cured the surface is much harder and scratch resistant.
When the mast bends polyurethane is flexing with the mast were epoxy
would crack.

A

catmodding wrote: [quote=JohnES]especially if your going to use the two part epoxy product... which is what you should use.Edited by JohnES on Apr 22, 2017 - 01:38 PM.

Don't think so. Every boatshop, marine paint-shop recommends 2 component polyurethane
based paint for the mast overhere.
Why, when cured the surface is much harder and scratch resistant.
When the mast bends polyurethane is flexing with the mast were epoxy
would crack.

A

Yes two part poly... I used the Interlux Perfection product to do my mast... you need to work quick if you're in Southern CA

I've been using quality two part automotive paints for my boats for many years now with great results. Somewhat less expensive than marine paints. I did the carbon F16 mast eight years ago, in yellow, and it still looks fabulous. I'm in the northern latitudes, and the boats are only exposed for seven months of the year, which may be helping. I do think painting carbon masts in lighter colors may be helpful in keeping temperatures lower, but it clear that black masts are surviving.

davefarmer wrote: I've been using quality two part automotive paints for my boats for many years now with great results. Somewhat less expensive than marine paints. I did the carbon F16 mast eight years ago, in yellow, and it still looks fabulous. I'm in the northern latitudes, and the boats are only exposed for seven months of the year, which may be helping. I do think painting carbon masts in lighter colors may be helpful in keeping temperatures lower, but it clear that black masts are surviving.

Spray or brush?

If spray what respirator?

Which two part automotive paint?

I just sprayed the System Three LPU 2-part paint, it turned out very well. Don't bother rolling and tipping.

-Sam

That is nasty stuff, not for amateurs.

See this thread from SA.

http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=180622

I've done all the prep work, then had my bodyman spray the boats and masts. Not sure which paint he was using, whatever he was liking at the time, I imagine. So not sure of the respirator he uses.

Edited by davefarmer on Apr 25, 2017 - 05:29 PM.

Probably the best that he can get.. He's a professional and probably a craftsman.

I painted my carbon A-Class mast 4 years ago and it still looks great.
- wet sanded with 200 grit
- wiped down with alcohol
- 6 really thin coats of Satin Black - rattle can Krylon from Home Depot

6 really thin coats of Satin Black - rattle can Krylon from Home Depot

Mike, all 6 coats in the same day?
any clear-coat?

I have heard (and read lots of posts) about how newer spray paints don't work the way they used to: that if you spray a coat, and don't wait the 48 hours between coats (or whatever the can calls for) the new coat will peel the prior coat off - even when using clear coat over ...

I did paint 2 beams last year with rustolium - i was careful to follow the rules and had no real problems

[quote=MN3]

I did paint 2 beams last year with rustolium - i was careful to follow the rules and had no real problems

Not wanting to high jack, but is it possible to paint over the anodized aluminum on a Hobie?

MN3 wrote:
I have heard (and read lots of posts) about how newer spray paints don't work the way they used to: that if you spray a coat, and don't wait the 48 hours between coats (or whatever the can calls for) the new coat will peel the prior coat off - even when using clear coat over ...

The only normal paint I've used that did this was the appliance epoxy spray paint http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-12-oz-Appliance-Epoxy-Gloss-Black-Spray-Paint-7886830/100141519

It says the same thing. Something around recoating it within 30min or having to wait 2 days. I ignored this and did a second coat a few hours later and it crinkled up. Didn't peel the other layer off but the surface needed a lot of sanding. Was the first time I had something like that happen.

martyr wrote:
Not wanting to high jack, but is it possible to paint over the anodized aluminum on a Hobie?

I have seen it. Not sure if it's ideal but an anodized coating seems like it would be fused to the aluminum well enough that it wouldn't matter if you paint right over it. I've thought about redoing my beams since the coating is totally gone on the top side but it's hard to make the decision to make the boat a few oz heaver... just haven't been able to make myself do it.. 😀

Edited by tamumpower1 on Apr 26, 2017 - 02:06 PM.

MN3 wrote: I have heard (and read lots of posts) about how newer spray paints don't work the way they used to: that if you spray a coat, and don't wait the 48 hours between coats (or whatever the can calls for) the new coat will peel the prior coat off - even when using clear coat over ...

The EPA has required many changes in paint chemistry, hence the required changes in application.

It says the same thing. Something around recoating it within 30min or having to wait 2 days. I ignored this and did a second coat a few hours later and it crinkled up. Didn't peel the other layer off but the surface needed a lot of sanding. Was the first time I had something like that happen

yes - we had lots of discussions about this on the other forum.
something changed a few years ago with these products - you used to be able to do a thin coat, wait for it to cure a bit and repeat... not anymore

if you youtube it - or google it - there are dozens of videos showing terrible results
that being said - done right you can get great results from a can

My rudder castings are a little faded and the, heck I cannot remember what they are called, not the tiller crossbar, but the bars that connect to the rudder castings, damn beer, Lol. Anyway, they look a little bronze to me so, I think I want to paint them black. Anyway, I just don't want to mess them up.

not the tiller crossbar, but the bars that connect to the rudder castings,

tiller

Yep, that's it. Tiller, thanks. Lol.

all 6 coats in the same day - aprox 10 mins apart

mikekrantz wrote: all 6 coats in the same day - aprox 10 mins apart

got it - thanks
clearcoat in the end?

no clear coat. I liked the "satin" finish. Clear coat looks awful unless it is done perfectly. The satin finish allowed the carbon weave to "print" thru. You could see the weave texture, but not the actual fiber.

no clear coat. I liked the "satin" finish. Clear coat looks awful unless it is done perfectly. The satin finish allowed the carbon weave to "print" thru. You could see the weave texture, but not the actual fiber.

sounds great!

I know what you mean about the clear:
after i did my beams last year ... i tried to "seal" them in clearcoat - wasn't applied perfectly and you could see differences in the gloss where there were differences (i.e. when the can was 6" vs 5" away)

schoen.steve wrote: Thinking about painting my carbon mast on my 2000 Inter 20. Looking at Awlgrip product. The current color is stock "off white" which clashes a bit with white sales. Would like to go with a darker color.

Read somewhere that you shouldn't paint a carbon mast a dark color because the heat from sitting in the sun may cause issues with the carbon fiber. Any thoughts or issues with a dark gray and/or paint choices?

Thanks,

To answer the second question, its worth noting the later Southern Spars I20 sticks were painted black.

FYI,
i needed to touch-up some scuffs on my white carbon fiber I20 mast.
i contacted the Mast Manufacturer (Southern Spars) to ask what the original paint color and spec were and this is what they replied.

Awlgrip Polyester Urethane Topcoat Base Paint Quart - G8003Q - Matterhorn White

i wonder if there might be smaller quantities for sale..........
j