I have an older P16 with the forestay and wire/halyard for a wire luff jib and a new zipper jib bought by previous owner. I've never seen it rigged and I'm unsure about how to set it up. Pbegle suggested running a wire through the zipper jib and using it like the older wire jib. Would anyone have any photos showing how the wire luff system is set up? There's a single pulley block riveted to the base of the mast - is this for tensioning the mast/jib? There was also a clam cleat which i have to replace.
Jason
aaargh! try this for the 3rd time....the forestay on the P16/P18 is made up of 2 parts, the lower forestay with it's turnbuckle
and the upper forestay consisting of 2 parts
connect the longer length of the upper forestay to the lower forestay using a shackle at the thimbles, leaving the SS ring to hang free.
Now connect the upper forestay to the mast at the hound using a large bell shackle, the sidestays on either side of the forestay and then your trap wires outside of the sidestays, make sure the SS ring faces the mast. Before you step the mast, feed your jib halyard up through the SS ring, through the thimble on the shorter length of the upper forestay and back down through the SS ring, that shorter piece of the upper forestay is used as a "block" to raise the Jib. Be aware that both the shorter piece of the upper forestay and the SS ring must face the mast.
Now step the mast
The jib halyard is low stretch line with an "S" hook on one end
the halyard line is attached to the circle on the outside edge of the "S", attach 3/16 shackle to bottom of "S" hook and clamp loop on "S" closed, now attach jib halyard to grommet at the head of the jib, once again make sure the hook opening faces the mast.
Now wrap the zipper pocket around the forestay and connect zipper, as you haul on jib halyard hold zipper tab and close zipper as jib is hoisted untill "S" hook passes through ring, gently pull on jib tack untill "S" hooks into ring, might take a few attempts b4 it hooks.
click on images to enlarge.
on the bottom edge of the jib should be a downhaul line attached to a grommet, thread line through shackle and up to cleat on jib tack. It's all in the P16?P18 manual
Turbo
On-The-Edge-Of-No-Control
Good job on the description TurboHobo
____________
Damon Linkous
i think his issue is that he has the setup with the forestay wire sewn into the jib and does not
have the two piece forestay but wants to use a zipper luff jib. I use the wire luff jib on my furling setup
and the jib is tensioned by forestay when the shrouds are adjusted since the jib is directly sewn around
the forestay wire. I have never seen the actual wire luff rigging, only my furler setup that I bought.
H18m
p16
Venture15
If you want to see how the wire luff system works, all you have to do is look at any Hobie 16. When Prindles first came out the jib system was exactly the same.
And a much more user friendly system. As a racer I prefer the zipper luff jib. But it's a pain to raise it alone. You need two hands to close the zipper and with your third hand need to put the halyard inside the zipper as you close it and of course pull the halyard down. Now when you get it all the way up & S hook doesn't catch the ring because it's backwards, you need to lower jib, turn hook 180 degrees and start over. Then when you finish, disconnect the sister clips, put 1/2 of the halyard somewhere (not on boat in case of capsize). Then when you come in two hours later, where is other half of dam halyard ? The tight forestay means you're about 0.01% faster going to weather and it's high tech, but not user friendly. Pete
prindle pete
And That was why I converted to a furling jib. I was not too sure of the term "wire luff jib", if that refers to a jib with a wire shroud running up the jib luff, then you have to make sure that the shroud is fixed to the sail using either 1/4 shackles top and bottom, or by using line to attach the head and tack of jib to the top and bottom thimbles, then as HULLFLYER suggests, look at a H16 jib setup, same system, the H16 has a block attached between upper and lower forestay with the jib halyard running through the block, jib has hanks on jib luff top and bottom, hank jib onto forestay, connect halyard, hoist jib, attach tack of jib to 10 hole shroud adjuster, use small block on tail of halyard for 2:1 downhaul, adjust for sailing conditions.
http://2010.archive.hobiecat.com/support/pdfs/PARTS_14-16.pdf
Look at Page 3
Turbo
On-The-Edge-Of-No-Control
turbohobo wrote: And That was why I converted to a furling jib. I was not too sure of the term "wire luff jib", if that refers to a jib with a wire shroud running up the jib luff, then you have to make sure that the shroud is fixed to the sail using either 1/4 shackles top and bottom, or by using line to attach the head and tack of jib to the top and bottom thimbles, then as HULLFLYER suggests, look at a H16 jib setup, same system, the H16 has a block attached between upper and lower forestay with the jib halyard running through the block, jib has hanks on jib luff top and bottom, hank jib onto forestay, connect halyard, hoist jib, attach tack of jib to 10 hole shroud adjuster, use small block on tail of halyard for 2:1 downhaul, adjust for sailing conditions.
http://2010.archive.hobiecat.com/support/pdfs/PARTS_14-16.pdf
Look at Page 3
See to me this sounds more confusing the zipper luff.
Dustin
Magna, UT
Prindle 18
thanks for all your input guys. I decided to take the boat to a nearby catamaran club and spent 4 hours with the owner/instructor. She has 30 years of experience and as it turns out was the builder of Mytere catamarans (with her husband) for many years. Anyways, she said there was no problem just hoisting the zipper jib over the forestay with the halyard. She also showed me how to get the shrouds and forestay nice and taught, which i wasn't doing before. Took it out for a sail afterwards and everything worked great. Money well spent!
Jason
Great! Nothing like hands on instruction, that's why we are always trying to hook newbies up with locals.
Keep us updated with your progress.
____________
Damon Linkous