Fig 39 Hobie cat 18 manual shows a shackle holding the forestay to the chainplate as well as holding the jib clew. They must have threaded the jib while pinning the furler to the chainplate. Crazy.
I'm using a separate shackle on the chainplate just for the jib. This way I can thread the jib clew while the forestay remains pinned. Am I looking at this photo correctly?
I'm looking at Fig 39 in this link:
http://www.hobiecat.com.au/pdf/sailing/H18&SX_Manual.pdf
Look closely and you'll see that the forestay is connected via a pin at the top hole of the chainplate. The tack of the jib is connected lower, via a shackle.
You are correct, once the forestay is connected, you definitely don't want to take it loose until you're ready to drop the mast.
From top down:
1. One pin holds chainplate to end of forestay
2. Shackel holds jib clue to chainplate
3. Pin holds furlher to chainplate
It's hard to see. The pin that holds the furler to the chainplate is in the hole below the shackle that holds the clew. Not sure what type of pin that is as it looks like the back end view of some sort of screw in washer pin, yet not shackle. Thanks for the closer look.
You are talking about the jib TACK connection, not the clew.
There are three connections - The first connects the fork at the end of the forestay to the adjuster plate via a 1/4" dia clevis pin. The second connects the adjuster plate to the furler drum also via a 1/4" dia clevis pin. The third is the jib tack connection which is made by connecting a bow shackle to the adjuster plate. You can make this connection anywhere along the adjuster as it is independent of the other two connections and you do this after the mast has been raised and the rig tensioned. As long as you don't disconnect the forestay from the adjuster plate or the adjuster plate from the furler drum, there is no risk of dropping the mast.
sm
Steve M.
The first connects the fork at the end of the forestay to the adjuster plate via a 1/4" dia clevis pin. The second connects the adjuster plate to the furler drum also via a 1/4" dia clevis pin. The third is the jib tack connection which is made by connecting a bow shackle to the adjuster plate.
+1
I would add (in general and on our setups) the lower the jib the better , so i would add the bow shackle to the lowest hole (as long as the sail still furls neat)
Edited by MN3 on May 14, 2015 - 02:18 PM.
MN3
Yes that is correct. I'm placing the lower two connections through the furler drum & adjuster plate in the event either the pin ring, or screw pin in shackle breaks or is lost. It is doubtful you'd lose two connections simultaneously so a backup is probably a good idea.
The only problem with connecting the jib tack all the way down at the furler drum (there are two holes in the furler drum) is that the forestay load could potentially be transferred to the pin of the jib tack shackle. This would make it difficult to install / remove this pin. We always just hook up the jib tack a little higher so it only connects to the adjuster plate so the only load on that pin is from the jib itself.
I would not be too concerned about the forestay pins failing, but if you're really worried about it, put a clevis pin through each of the holes in the furler. I would still only pin the jib tack shackle to the adjuster plate so it can be easily installed / removed.
sm
Steve M.
We always just hook up the jib tack a little higher so it only connects to the adjuster plate so the only load on that pin is from the jib itself.
Then you would need a thinner throat shackle as the one used for the furler is wider. Correct? Or does it matter.
It matters not.
sm
Steve M.
I would still only pin the jib tack shackle to the adjuster plate so it can be easily installed / removed.
Otherwise you have to run back to the car for the pliers to removeit. Don't ask me how I know this.