Newbie - Did I waste $1700? Mast kink on Mystere 6.0

Is it a kink or is it a bend? A bend can often be straightened, a kink cannot. A bend is gradual over a distance and can usually be straightened. Remove all the rigging, find a couple of trees spaced an appropriate distance apart, a come along, strong horse, or trusted friends who follow orders and apply counter pressure until you achieve the desired result. A kink is a hard visible dent at a single point and if that's what you have, you're f'd.

some bent masts are better off left alone = the rigging tention will correct it
othere can be sleeved, welded, or braced

pics would be helpful

Lesson here: Never by a boat without rigging it, and a test sail if possible - i wouldn't buy anything without a test drive personally

pics would be helpful

Read the FAQ, there is info on making an album that will get you started.
Get hold of Yves Sansoucy, Mystere catamarans, if your mast is junk. There are quite a few of these boats around his area,(near Montreal). He was quite accommodating when I needed a new tramp for my 6.0XL

This picture was taken standing at the top of the mast looked toward the base.

Here is a picture of the mast. It looks like the bend is right around the diamond spread which is what made me think it could be unbalanced tension

Edited by jgregs on Sep 27, 2021 - 12:37 PM.

Have you released all the tension on the diamond wires?

boatbore wrote: Have you released all the tension on the diamond wires?

I have not. I would assume that is step number one to get a true view of it? Do I do that by loosening the tensioners near the base?

The previous owner put some kind of silicone sealant all over the connection points I removed to allow the wires to move more freely when I loosen them - not sure if this was the right choice but I hadn't seen it before when I was doing more dinghy sailing.

JG

Edited by jgregs on Sep 27, 2021 - 12:36 PM.

Do I do that by loosening the tensioners near the base?

Yes

The previous owner put some kind of silicone sealant all over the connection points

Remove all that crap, you need to see everything to properly assess the condition of the pieces

Remove all that crap, you need to see everything to properly assess the condition of the pieces

Then replace by something like this, it's to protect the jib:

And something like this for the shroud ajdusters, to protect your feet:

Remove all that crap, you need to see everything to properly assess the condition of the pieces

Good thats what I thought

I'm hoping because no one has posted

That this isn't catastrophic? . . . my girlfriend told me I need to practice being optimistic. I will work on getting the diamond spreaders off and give and update this afternoon

I will work on getting the diamond spreaders off and give and update this afternoon

don't remove the spreaders

release the tention on the spreader wires
and take/post a dozen other pics
from both ends, put a light at one end,
at the point of concern

And something like this for the shroud ajdusters, to protect your feet:

FEET? - you have 2! you don't need to worry about your feet
those are to protect your ring-dings from getting snagged on your shorts and the ring-ding getting bent and falling out (and you demast)

MN3 wrote:

I will work on getting the diamond spreaders off and give and update this afternoon

don't remove the spreaders

release the tention on the spreader wires
and take/post a dozen other pics
from both ends, put a light at one end,
at the point of concern

So just enough so they are loose?

At this point, I would suggest removing the diamonds and spreaders off completely. This will give you a true sense of what you are looking at. Bends are not bad. If it was a kink, I would suggest placing a doubler plate on the mast either side of the spreaders. When you pull the spreaders off, be mindful of the thread adjusters. I think the Mystere used the same spreaders as the Nacra and Prindle where there is a threaded stock for the adjustment. My 18-2 spreader screws are completely frozen. I have not pushed to free them up as the thread can shear easily. Since then, I have acquired a spare set. I say pull everything off so you can inspect the fittings. More than likely, they have not been pulled apart. Do beware that this can become a rabbit-hole if you are OCD. Check the spreader tips for wear. You will see where the diamonds have worn a grove about 1/16" deep; this is normal. Where the wire fork attaches to the tangs, check the hole size carefully. This is one area pins can be point loaded. Check the turnbuckle ends also. This will become a good time to pull the turnbuckles apart and clean them well. I would recommend replacing the diamond wires completely while you have them off. This way you now know the age of them. Even if the previous owner said they just replaced them, that could have been 5,8,10,12 years ago. And... you have no idea how they maintained the wires after sailing... did they wash the boat down? Did they spray a corrosion inhibitor on the wires while in off season? If you are choosing to keep the existing diamond wires, take a tissue and wipe the wires down. This will show if there are any broken wires along the wire. If there is a bend that the diamonds will not straighten, you can add a second set of diamonds to help straighten the mast up. While you are inspecting things, check the tangs for corrosion.

I'm working on getting the diamond wires loosened and figuring out whats happening with the mast.

The last major repair I have is this panel here. It looks like the old glue has simply given up. Each individual piece is strong but without this glued down, the side of the hull flexes when the trampoline is weighted. With this and the mast repaired, my boat should be just about seaworthy.

Can I simply epoxy this down? That's what it looks like was done originally.

I'm not familiar with the mystere line of boats but from your photo, it looks like someone peeled the deck plate open to inspect the hull for some reason. They don't just come unglued. Perhaps a daggerboard trunk leak. You need to do a through inspection of the hull. Probably remove the deck plate the rest of the way so you can clean it up and reattach it properly.
I'm sure someone with more experience with this boat chime in with more information, but this is an old boat and you need to look over everything very carefully.

Jgregs
A neighbor has a Mystere and has stopped using it in favor of another boat.
It needs hull work, but has good rigging and a straight mast.
PM me if you wish his contact info
Best
Windwardde

dup

Edited by MN3 on Sep 28, 2021 - 09:39 AM.

jgregs wrote: I'm working on getting the diamond wires loosened and figuring out whats happening with the mast.

The last major repair I have is this panel here. It looks like the old glue has simply given up. Each individual piece is strong but without this glued down, the side of the hull flexes when the trampoline is weighted. With this and the mast repaired, my boat should be just about seaworthy.

Can I simply epoxy this down? That's what it looks like was done originally.

I have removed the bow decks from my mystere 5.5, and have seen many mystere's with the decks removed for repairs.

https://www.thebeachcats.com/index.php?module=forums&func=viewtopic&topic=16179

https://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=123629

I find it unlikely someone removed that deck part way to do repair or inspection as i would THINK the deck would be much more beat up. I had to use a crowbar and sledge hammer to break into mine and it was ugly.

I would guess the glue did in-fact dry-up and get brittle and simply fail. You will probably find chunks of it in your hulls. it is thick white toothpaste like glue - brittle and strong but will crack in half with force. the areas by the beam bolts take a lot of torque (esp the one up front) and many mysteres have some stress cracks in those areas. I am not surprised to see some glue fail after 25+ years

I would look inside , take lots of pics so you can blow them up - stick bright lights out side of your hull to see through and see cracks and when you are 100% certain the cat is solid reseal those lids with west system six10 (3 tubes per lid if i recall, perhaps 4. The pics may help you in the future as well if you have to deal with something (side stay failure, bulk head failure, beam bolt plate issues, etc. This may be the right time to add some thicened epoxy to your bulkheads to siffen them up - they are know to come separated, esp in 6.0's (I have done both my boats. The 6.0 i just did this where i could via the 4 deck ports. the 5.5 had the bows lids off and i added bulkheads for stiffness.

When you glue it back down, suggest you put strps of wood on the deck that are 1" x 8' (this so flexable) and then put weights on top of the wood to weigh down the deck lid overnight as it cures.

Edited by MN3 on Sep 28, 2021 - 09:44 AM.

Time to learn fiberglass repair!

This may be the right time to add some thicened epoxy to your bulkheads to siffen them up - they are know to come separated, esp in 6.0's

Yeah I noticed one on the port side was loose so I will give them a once over.

. . . this boat's going to be bomb proof after all these repairs 😆

dup

Edited by MN3 on Sep 28, 2021 - 12:11 PM.

jgregs wrote: Time to learn fiberglass repair!

This may be the right time to add some thicened epoxy to your bulkheads to siffen them up - they are know to come separated, esp in 6.0's

Yeah I noticed one on the port side was loose so I will give them a once over.

. . . this boat's going to be bomb proof after all these repairs 😆

No fiberglass work in this thread (yet)
Just use that six10 product (thickened epoxy and catalyst in a tube with a mixing nozzle) - i recommend a power caulking gun (maybe worth renting) but a $4 one will work too

Read surface prep through Bonding with Fillets. pg 30-33. (actually read the entire thing if you have the time
https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/User-Manual-2015.pdf

there are other epoxy products but this is a pretty simple and proven product -

Get hold of Yves Sansoucy, Mystere catamarans,

Pretty sure his son Yannick is running the show now -

see Yannick -Voile Sansoucy Owner https://voilesansoucy.com/a-propos/
also read the histroy

had to use a crowbar and sledge hammer to break into mine and it was ugly.

I would guess the glue did in-fact dry-up and get brittle and simply fail

Hmm, these mysteres are truly mysterious boats

Hmm, these mysteres are truly mysterious boats

Great design, made to last until the manufacturer warranty expires - then explode

Would you use the six10 for stabalizing the bulkheads as well as re attaching the top panels?

I'm having trouble getting the panel all the way off. It appears that the original owner did some repairs in the area and only reglued half the panel.

Would you use the six10 for stabilizing the bulkheads as well as re attaching the top panels?

yes
you probably do want to wet in the fillet (wet the hulls with unthickend epoxy before adding the thickened epoxy for a better bond)
so you may need to get a small epoxy bottle and small catalyst

I'm having trouble getting the panel all the way off. It appears that the original owner did some repairs in the area and only reglued half the panel.

sounds like boatbore was correct
you will have to verify his repairs prior to sealing them

Edited by MN3 on Sep 28, 2021 - 02:23 PM.

sounds like boatbore was correct. you will have to verify his repairs prior to sealing them

Do you know any way to breakdown the glue or to get it up? My worry is snapping the panel

Do you know any way to breakdown the glue or to get it up? My worry is snapping the panel

Break it down?
flame thrower or dynamite

you can try using a metal scraper or putty knife but i doubt that will get you too far

we used a hammer and chisel in spots it would come apart and a small sledge hammer and crow bar in spots it wouldn't - it got ugly but the point of load (impact) was on the hull lip, not the deck lid

You can get a camera on a selfie stick in there and take a ton of pics or video - before you go nuts to get the entire lid off (creating a ton of work) are you sure it is needed?

Man, I'd follow the advice and get a good look inside the thing first with a camera. There may be no need to remove it and reattaching with epoxy may be all you need to do. Thickened epoxy to glue it down and then seal around the edges with regular thin, then fair it out/fill in cracks with thicker, if needed. May just need to attach it back down, enure it's sealed and go. For other areas that are still glued down, but you're worried about, you can do the inject-epoxy thing.