Hello all,
Very excited to have acquired a new to me H16! Im keen to start sailing as a novice and have a few questions Im hoping you all can help answer! pictures included!
First:
Is the amount of corrosion on the boom acceptable? is there an easy fix, or just sail it?
Second:
On the mast, the cheek block (which I assume is for the jib halyard) is shot... The pulley has completely deteriorated as you can see. Any recommended fix besides riveting a new block? Is it true you can use the pin above the pulley instead?
Last but not least:
I have a bunch of wire Im not sure where or what is goes to. I will number the pics for ease of identifying.
Pic 1
Pic 2
pic 3
pic 4
I really appreciate it and sorry for the long post!
drmanhattan wrote: Hello all,
Very excited to have acquired a new to me H16! Im keen to start sailing as a novice and have a few questions Im hoping you all can help answer! pictures included!
Welcome to TheBeachcats.com, I'm sure our Hobie 16 experts will show up soon.
Do you know what year your Hobie is? There are numbers etched in the fiberglass at the stern beside the rudder castings that tell the model and year of manufacture.
What area will you be sailing? Might find some locals here to help in person.
Have you assembled the boat and raised the mast yet? Sounds like you haven't, so may not have all the pieces, luckily Hobie 16's have less parts to lose than most beachcats.
Lastly, that boom looks nasty, but can be used. I don't know how a black anodized boom got that bad unless it was stored with that end in a tub of salt water. 👿
____________
Damon Linkous
Thanks for the welcome, Damon.
I was told it is an 86 by the hobie dealer. The number etched is: CCMB3303J68 so Im not sure how 86 was determined though...
I have not raised the mast as I haven't got a main or jib yet... looking at the intensity sails...
Located in San Antonio, TX.
drmanhattan wrote:
I was told it is an 86 by the hobie dealer. The number etched is: CCMB3303J68 so Im not sure how 86 was determined though...
Could be an '86, but that's not enough numbers. Should be 12 digits like
CCM B XXXX J686
where the first four X's are the serial build number and the last four digits show the model year and manufacture date. The J could indicate October, so if you HIN (Hull ID Number) ended in J686 it would be a 1986 H16 build in October 1986. Check both hulls to see if they match.
More info on HIN http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm
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Damon Linkous
i would say just sail with the boomthe way it is, but i dont know for sure. just use the block the way it is you dont really need the wheel, mine is like that and works find. pic 1-bow bridals pic 2 jib halyard. i cant tell what the other one are.
First Sail it
Second use it without and rig 3:1
Pic 1 Jib Halyard
Pic 2 Bridle wires
Pic 3 Fore Stay
Pic 4 Shrouds
Ron Beliech
Nacra F-18
Brandon, MS
Anodizing on the boom is already corroded so you don't have to worry about scratching. You may do light sanding to make it look better. No problem with using it as is.
Re to block - I removed left over chunkes of that pulley and used only the pin on my SolCat, it worked. No big deal to use as is. The replacement also doesn't cost that much eaiter. Check Murrays.
Happy sailing 😎
Ummm! priority side note, never, ever, never, if at all possible, walk on the hulls, this is the major cause of delamination on catamarans, keep all kids, friends, wifes, hot babes off the hulls............. 😀
Really appreciate everyone's help. I'll sail the damn thing then!
nacra55 wrote: First Sail it
Second use it without and rig 3:1
I apologize but could you elaborate a bit more on the 3:1 and how the jib halyard (pic 1) and the forestay work together?
Thank you!
Put a wire wheel in your electric drill And clean off all that corrision. Pete
prindle pete
On the bottom of the jib halyard is a block with a becket.......
.....should be 1/4" line tied off on the becket, then the line loops through the sheave on the block. In the youtube video above at 11.49, Matt reaches up and grabs the line at the becket and pulls out a loop which he then lengthens and hooks the bottom of the loop around the cheek-block on the mast. This gives you 3:1 purchase or pulling power on the halyard.
The forestay of the H16 is there to help you step and secure the mast, but if you look at the jib closely, you will notice that there is a stay sewn into a pocket on the luff, once you raise the jib and crank on that 3:1 down-haul, that stay in the jib luff pocket become the forestay, the original (fore) stay becomes loose, as per the Youtube video above at around 12.55.
Make sense Dr........ :haeh:
Edited by the-renovator on Apr 09, 2013 - 12:18 PM.
I forgot to mention that the other block on your jib halyard.......
....is connected to the mast tang using a short stay sometimes referred to as a "pigtail".