Nacra 5.8 V-bar confusion

There is an old and less old model or the rod and ball. I checked at Murrays.com and it seems that the old one is 13” Long and the new one is 14”. Maybe you have the wrong one. Not sure what are all the differences, certainly the ball diameter would be a major one, other than that, if there are no interferences and you have room for adjustment of the tension, the next thing to look at is the stay and shrouds length, for a proper mast rake

The two nuts, top and bottom of the beam securing the striker rod are what control the mast ball height. I'm not saying your v-bar has not stretched, but I think it would just become loose if it stretched since the nut on the top of the beam would keep the ball at a set height. That said the striker bar doesn't look straight, maybe it's just a trick of the photo angle. I wonder if it didn't get bent at the ball and someone cut it down to help get rid of the bend. My only experience is with a NACRA 5.0 that I've just recently acquired as opposed to a 5.8 so take everything I say with a grain of salt, but I'd guess they try to use the same parts across their different boats. If it were my boat I'd replace it as it's a heavy load item that can cause a beam failure if it's not setup right.
Shawn

Edited by Shawn on Oct 19, 2020 - 09:33 PM.

I will remove the rod tomorrow and check for straightness.

Concerning the V-bar, should it be pointing straight down? Or does it have a slight angle forward?

If it has a slight angle forward, it may have been towed to the beach or on to a trailer using the dolphin striker rod which should never be done. Should point straight down.

How does the beam connect to the hulls?
If it uses the half moon chicks, with a bolt going through into the beam, there is no room to adjust the angle of the V brace. It will orient itself. The only way it has room to move is if the hole in the beam,(where the attaching bolt goes through) has been worn oversize.
I have a couple spare 5.7 beams, one has quite elongated holes.

The lower the better. less moment arm for the top to bend over. (done that)

The holes are tight and not elongated. In looking from the end (as well as the plates under the ends of the V-bar, it looks as though the dolphin striker bar (and mast) have a slight rake to the rear, meaning that the V-bar will have a SLIGHT angle toward the front. Not dramatic though. I have everything back into place and sitting in the appropriate manner. I learned a heck of a lot this weekend. Thanks much guys. Now I have to replace one of the bolts that was sheared off on the end of the V-bar. Can’t pound it back up so I need to figure out maybe something different. Then that’s done!

ziper1221 wrote: The lower the better. less moment arm for the top to bend over. (done that)

Make sure there is enough clearance for the tangs on the mast base to clear the main-beam

Now I have to replace one of the bolts that was sheared off on the end of the V-bar. Can’t pound it back up so I need to figure out maybe something different.

Are you saying the nut is on the bottom of the V brace, preventing driving it upwards into the hull?
Just get two large screwdrivers & pry the V brace away from the beam,(I’m thinking the bolt is sheared with no head inside the beam).
I built an album a decade ago on replacing the DS on a 5.7. I can’t successfully post the link using this iPad. Go to ALBUMS, then down to around page 4. It’s titled REPLACE YOUR DS ROD FOR $16.75
First photo, I used a flat blade screwdriver to separate the beam/V brace.