Nacra 5.0 Running Rigging

Congrats on the purchase!!

Here's a link to the manual:
http://www.nacrasailing.com/wp-content/uploads/pdf/nacra-vintage-assembly-manual.pdf

The pics of the main block assembly are pretty poor. You'll want a 6:1 block setup. The upper block attaches to the main sail clew (your picture) with an "S" hook. Put the hook in the aft hole for light winds and move it forward as the wind picks up.

The bottom blocks attach to the traveler car.

If you still have questions, let me know and I'll get some pics of my setup.

Hi, and welcome,

I believe the N 5.0 came with a 6:1 purchase from Harken,
like this;

of course the block shown are more modern.

The mainsheet system is expensive and if you still have to
get it for your N 5.0 I'd opt for a 8;1 purchase. So much
more comfort.
Have a look in the classifieds. There's a few persons here
that sell used cat-parts.

Grtz, André

Thanks for your replies Tim and Andre. As a total newbie to the NACRA 5.0 all help is much appreciated. Most of my previous experience is with the Hobie 16.

The boat came with this for the lower (traveler) portion of the mainsheet system:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6l8KNLf9GRLREdLVlI5NFFrWVE/view?usp=sharing

Obviously it's a triple, intended for a 6:1 arrangement as shown in the photo posted above by Andre.

I will have to find the upper triple block and an S-hook. I just wondered if it was truly just a plain open S-hook or had some kind of retainer on? It seemed like an open type would be prone to inadvertent release.

Tim please do post a photo of your setup when you get a chance.

Have a triple with becket which will give you 7:1 (check my classifieds) Pete 909-800-5237

Thanks Pete. Will call you Monday 04/27/15 in the PM for me as I'm in NC and you're in CA.

The hook does not release accidentally. The reason why it is a hook rather than a shackle is that you can switch it between holes while tacking in case you want to power up or power down as described above.

We have a stock '88 5.0, it came with a 5:1, which is plenty. I use a 7:1 on the larger 5.7, however, you might as well use the parts you have, Pete's triple will set you up.
If that S hook inadvertently releases, you have much bigger things to worry about. Don't change it, it makes life easy when returning, especially if you are in a confined area. Simply release the rudders, head up, then lift the S hook out of clew plate, step off boat & grab the bows & walk it to where you want it.
The main will go to null position.
Do a search for Nacra 5.0 on this site, there have been numerous informative threads over the last few years.

A picture or two of the OEM main sheet setup would be very helpful.Thanks in advance

Here is how your will look. This is my 5.7, but you will have the same setup once you get the triple upper block. (I think you need one with becket)
The only difference is mine used the low profile system, you have the 4th block separate.

There are a number of photos in this album that might answer some questions. It's a 5.7, but is mostly the same boat, just 2' longer.

Thanks Ed, your pic is just what I was looking for.

Murrays offers two hooks:

http://www.murrays.com/56-9650.html

http://www.murrays.com/56-9651.html

Yours appears to be 9651.

New at this forum, I searched the albums for yours, edchris177 in search window, to no avail. How do I find the album you mention above? It says that the album name is searchable.

sorry, I thought I posted the link, here it is. I've been meaning to make a 5.0 album, but...
http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=71715
Actually, I'm not sure how to search the Albums. I've just selected the Album Topic,(Tech Help, Members etc), then scrolled through & selected any that looked interesting or relevant. It does take some time as there are pages of Members.
There is a photo of a G Cat for sale, in the classifieds. It has the extra block, I think it is the exact setup you have.

sorry, I thought I posted the link, here it is. I've been meaning to make a 5.0 album, but...
http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=71715
Actually, I'm not sure how to search the Albums. I've just selected the Album Topic,(Tech Help, Members etc), then scrolled through & selected any that looked interesting or relevant. It does take some time as there are pages of Members.
There is a photo of a G Cat for sale, in the classifieds. It has the extra block, I think it is the exact setup you have.

Thanks Ed. Just looked at the album. A lot of good info.. In the process of getting this 5.0 going I'll be taking quite a few pics for reference that others may find useful. Perhaps we can collaborate on a 5.0 album.

BTW I love the pic of your main hanging in the great room !@#$%!@#$$%@#$$%%^

It looks like Ed took care of you with his picture. I'm using a hook similar to the 9651 you mentioned above. Hope you're on the water soon!

One more thing that I just thought of - when you rig the line for your traveler (whether you use your mainsheet or a separate line), make sure to tie a knot in the line ahead of the swivel cleat on the rear beam so that you limit the distance outboard that the traveler can go. You need to make sure that the traveler can't hit the cap at the end of the track. If it does, there's a good chance that the end cap will join King Neptune, your car will fly off the end of the beam losing all its bearings, and you'll have a VERY interesting trip back to shore.

Thanks Tim. Got it, limit the traveler car travel prior to impact. I use to tie a knot in the traveler control line on the H16 to stop the traveler car about an inch from the casting. On the H16 should you forget to do this, the car could not escape after slamming in the the corner casting!

I prefer separate mainsheet/traveler control lines, color coded.

Tim, Ronstan offers several versions of the S-hook that look like the Murrays 9651 in different material gauges, lengths and load ratings. What is the material gauge and length of your mainsail clew hook?, see here:

http://www.ronstan.us/marine5/search.asp?S=1&query=s-hook&search=Search

Click on "view product" for any PN to see the drawing and dimensions C and D.

Edited by leeboweffect on Apr 27, 2015 - 11:16 AM.

I'll measure it when I get home and let ya know.

RF49 is the closest to mine. 5/16" diameter, 1/2" opening (measurement A on Ronstan site), and 2 7/8" overall length.

Thanks Tim, please see your private messages.

You're welcome! PM sent

Finally found a complete OEM mainsheet system for the 1983 5.0:

Weird thing, to me, is that it uses a 40mm triple w/becket on top and a 40mm triple w/single ratched on bottom. Does anyone have a reeving diagram for this exact setup? Have googled extensively and searched old Murrays catalogs extensively already to no avail.

Also, plan to string it with 5/16" (8mm) line. I have used New England Sta-Set for main and jib sheets in the past. I find it to be too stiff and a bit slick to the grip for a 40mm arrangement. Any suggestions on an alternative that's more supple and free running? I really don't want to go back to the spun fiber fuzzy stuff.

Did you try the Harken site

http://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3901

you my fine the setup here

You have a 7:1 system. It reeves like my photo on previous page, but instead of the low profile captive block you have a "free block".
Your system is about 3" longer than the low profile system, & you will find you get "block-to-block". Use a stopper knot on the top becket, or tie it as close as possible.
7:1 is overkill on a 5.0, but you have it so...
Look at the large diagram partway down this thread. You reeve at 90*, you would start at the top becket, then run down through the sheave he is not using.
http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=18460

http://www.hobiecat.com/f…ewtopic.php?f=14&t=18460

Thanks Ed. The first photo in that thread is my exact setup.

Thanks ohmsj. Yes I came across the Harken site and diagrams, buy my exact configuration isn't there.

The intuitive set up would be to start from the lower block, then thread from one side to the other and end at the becket. That's the wrong way, because the friction of each block progressively adds tension from one segment to the next, therefore in low winds the arrangement tends to tangle: the blocks tend to twist laterally because only one side is tensioned and the other is loose (this happens when friction is significant compared to the wind forces). I think I do something like this, not totally sure but you will figure out:
- Lower block
- upper center
- lower left
- upper left
- lower right
- upper right
- Lower center
- becket

Later on I modified it to 8:1 by moving the triple with becket to the lower part and replacing the top part by a quad w/o becket. It works fine, the lower and upper blocks are perpendicular to each other.

Thanks Andinista, I'll take a look. Weird thing is that some of the early cats used this arrangement (before low profile became all the rage), but I don't find a formal reeving diagram in old Murrays catalogs or the Harken site.

Check out step #53 in the below link. It's a pic from the Vintage Nacra assembly manual. I think it shows your setup, although it's not the greatest pic.

http://www.nacrasailing.com/wp-content/uploads/pdf/nacra-vintage-assembly-manual.pdf