Most fuel efficient auto for towing H18


I used to tow a h16/18 with a honda accord 2.4
then mystere 5.5 and 6.0 with a lexus 3.3
just went back to a honda crv (same 2.4) - Reasons: i drive very short distances to sail (but often), this uni-body frame has proven to be strong enough, in this and the honda element for towing this size boat
there is LOTS of data online about towing
when you read a car is rated to tow "X" - this is BS -
do your research, your car has a max weight and axle weight you can't exceed these safely
your tongue weight and tow weight is critical too... the way to figure out exactly is on google
modern suv's have CVT transmissions which have better mileage but not sure if that's better or worse for towing
http://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/82-1st-gen-2003-2007/179658-towing-cvt.html
MN3


I don't need to Google anything to know it's light enough not to exceed GVWR.
your 2009 Camry with the 4 cyl 2.4 is "rated" at 1000lb towing
again - this is a bs value... you have to include tongue weight, weight placement, and all cargo in the calculation of what you can tow at any given time
I'm not telling you it can't be done, it can be done and is done all the time
but it's not great on your transmission and you are possibly overloading your car's safe weight limits - thus making it less safe... and possibly increase your liabilities.
so if you have a steel trailer, and a 5.7+sail/gear... throw a full trunk of food, toolbxox, etc (maybe a person) and i bet you have exceeded your rating
If you (not specifically you Tom) tow a lot, or are close to your limits... I would consider looking into a trans cooler to lower the temp and extend the life
As a matter of fact, i did They are very cheap - but look like a byatch to install (at least for my crv - the instal video includes removing the bumper ... )
https://www.etrailer.com/Transmission-Coolers/Honda/CR-V/2016/D13503.html?vehicleid=2016753000
Edited by MN3 on Feb 14, 2017 - 08:01 PM.
MN3


I don't need to Google anything to know it's light enough not to exceed GVWR.
btw google tells me your vehicle IS over it's gcwr with your 800lbs of boat and trailer:
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating 3836 (CURB WEIGHT: 3,263)
Gross Combined Weight Rating 4413
= 577 lbs of additional weight you can "safely" carry /tow (including humans, boats, coolers, tools etc)
YMMV
Edited by MN3 on Feb 15, 2017 - 02:03 PM.
MN3
I routinely tow a 15' skiff i built and occasionally a 17' cat with my 2014 6-speed, v6 mustang. Works better than most small SUV's, particularly at highway speeds. Manual transmission so no transmission shifting issues, brakes stay auto-engaged on steep ramps for easy starts, limited slip rear, 300+hp so no power issues, brakes are quite sufficient, and cost me a whopping$20k new. Only has the little v6, so it gets around 22mpg towing the cat.
A lot of people are terrified to tow a jet ski nowadays with anything less than a dually. I think it's hilarious. Compare European tow ratings for the exact same models, it's quite enlightening to see what manufacturers think is safe when they aren't trying to sell you a full-size truck.

MN3 wrote:
If you (not specifically you Tom) tow a lot, or are close to your limits... I would consider looking into a trans cooler to lower the temp and extend the life
I would not recommend adding a trans cooler to a Camry to tow a basic catamaran rig..... Because it already has one... Toyota Part #53005. And, most states have a restricted limit of 55 MPH with a trailer and if you stay there or below 65, you'll be fine.
The failure will happen with the fluid breaking down and and not being looked after. With the fluid recommended change at 100K... there is room to work. Once the fluid goes from pink to burnt brown... that is the tell tail sign... at that point it is putting a strain of the transmission valve body and that is where the failure will occur.
The Camry is using the Toyota Trans #U241E.... this is the same tranny used on a number of other Toyota vehicles... it is pretty bullet proof. The problems they have had with these has been in the TCU (software) and the throttle position switch... again software.. not the mechanics...
Changing the transmission fluid on the Camry 2.4L is as easy as changing the oil... and recommend it at 30K miles if you're pulling a cat
Edited by JohnES on Feb 16, 2017 - 11:44 AM.


I would not recommend adding a trans cooler to a Camry to tow a basic catamaran rig..... Because it already has one
Hi John, good info
I am no mechanic, and just regurgitating what I have found/seen online - which was eye opening
in almost every thread about towing with non-tow packages, the recommendation of a trans cooler came up
MN3

MN3 wrote:
I would not recommend adding a trans cooler to a Camry to tow a basic catamaran rig..... Because it already has one
Hi John, good info
I am no mechanic, and just regurgitating what I have found/seen online - which was eye opening
in almost every thread about towing with non-tow packages, the recommendation of a trans cooler came up
Sure.... they want to sell you something
Only time you should add one is when there isn't one... But most cars these days have them.... far cheaper than replacing the whole transmission unit under warrentee. We were having trouble with the VW Eurovans....blowing transmissions left and right @ 15K-20K miles... too many RPMs from the engine.... and pulling a lot of weight with the van curb weight itself.. VW came out with a cooling kit... bingo problem solved...

I can't say all but certainly the majority of car with automatic transmission have a transmission oil cooler. It is usually inside the bottom reservoir of the engine main radiator. It can't be seen from outside. Only the inlet and outlet tubing going in and out of the radiator can be seen. Those are for normal operation of the car. If you tow anything over a certain weight that depend on the car, you better install a secondary oil cooler. The best person to tell you if it's needed for the weight you want to carry is your dealer. And he will probably tell you 'yes' whatever the weight you want to pull.
Edited by coolhead on Feb 17, 2017 - 01:34 PM.
I used to tow my H18 with a diesel VW rabbit and this included up and down over tongue mountain and across NY State I - 90 which has long hills. It handled it fine with no issues and wish I still had a picture (1980s pre-digital age) as the boat/mast dwarfed the car.
James
H17+
F25C+

Which VW dirty diesel? I'm currently driving an Opel Insignia Diesel station wagon while on vacation. It's a fantastic car. 40mpg, plenty of power, absolutely no issue climbing to altitude (steep mountain pass at over 7,000 feet). I know it would tow the F18 with ease. In the U.S this is known as the Buick Regal, but it's not available in a wagon variant never mind a diesel.

samc99us wrote: Which VW dirty diesel? I'm currently driving an Opel Insignia Diesel station wagon while on vacation. It's a fantastic car. 40mpg, plenty of power, absolutely no issue climbing to altitude (steep mountain pass at over 7,000 feet). I know it would tow the F18 with ease. In the U.S this is known as the Buick Regal, but it's not available in a wagon variant never mind a diesel.
Last time in Germany I had a Ford Kuga... (Ford Escape in the US) with a 2.0L diesel with a 6 speed manual... It was nothing compared to the BMW 535 Twin Turbo Diesel I had on the previous trip but it got respect...
That thing pulled all the "hills" in Southern Germany with no effort... Pulling a cat would not even be an issue
Sigh.... wish they sold them over here!
Edited by JohnES on Feb 25, 2017 - 05:56 PM.
those German cars are nice but also cost a bit more in upkeep, a Passat or Jetta wagon might work. I am thinking a bit more frugally and leaning towards something that can tow and also has some room but is not a full SUV so might get good gas mileage. Maybe after parting with the powerboat a RAV4 or a Honda CR-V would be more suitable than an overpowered Tundra handling the beachcats....the RAV4 comes in a V6 or even an AWD version...
My two cents:
Towing your H18 above 50 mph will require great trailer tires, fully inflated, and properly packed wheel bearings.
Cheap, discounted tires will fail (explode) above this, especially if under-inflated and at the worst possible time.
Edited by klozhald on Feb 26, 2017 - 06:27 PM.
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