More 5.2 advice

Q1. You'd probably best be served getting a new jib. 5.2 jibs are cheap, this time of year especially, and it never hurts to have a backup sail. That said, replacing the zipper should be cheap.

q2. I wouldn't epoxy a mast ball on -- they get worn quickly.

q3. That block should hang down the mast, and stop about 1-2 feet above a standard jam-cleat w/ becket. tie a line onto the becket, up through the block, back down through the cleat. Gives you a 2:1 on the jib, and the tension can be adjusted from the water (for upwind vs downwind, or high wind)

q4. search for pics, it'll be easy to figure out if you can see it

q5. the only problem running shock cord through the main beam is that it doesn't leave a whole lot of range of motion for the crew, compared to what you can acheive w/ the skippers trap/shock cord setup.

q6. add padding to the daggers? no idea here.

Q3 Anyone got a pix of how the jib hallyard fastens at the base of the mast. I am used to the cleats on Hobies to secure that line.. On mine N. 5.2 the sheet is "tied" to the pulley that connects to the wire to raise the jib. Seems like that is wrong.. Where does that line anchor??
It is correct. There is probably a small steel strap eye on the mast. Run a short line from the block,(pulley) down through the strap eye, up to the block, then down to the jam cleat on the mast, gives 2:1 as Yurdle said. Step 60 in the manual explains the two different systems

Q4.. Cant seem to find out how the "pivmatic" piece works on the tiller.. I Like the idea that it helps kick up over obstructions but not sure how it works. Forum folks all recommend adding it..

The pull down line on the rudder goes over a roller on the rudder pivot bolt, then along the arm through the jam cleat of the pivmatic. When the rudder hits, the jam cleat won't let the line slip, so the pivmatic breaks loose from the tiller arm, & pivots upwards via the pin at the end of the pivmatic.

Download the two NAcra manuals from this site. One is newer than your boat, but it shows the rudder assembly better than the older one. Go to Photo Albums/Technical Tips/pg 2 or this link. It will show two icons, select each one in turn. It will show thumbnails of each page. Go to the bottom & download the PDF file, that will give you the entire manual.
http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=35212

Edited by Edchris177 on Feb 03, 2011 - 04:00 AM.

halliske wrote:
Q 1.. The jib zipper is missing a few (2) teeth and is soo stiff.. I think the slider is bad. Tried silicone.. Bit of help.. Slides down but get stuck when unzipping.. I am rather sure I can zip it all the way to the foot however.. ...I think I can fish the forestay in the pocket prior to setpping the mast. How about raising the mast with a trap line to keep the sail clear of that operation and attaching the chain plate to the forstay using the tention from the trap line... Found a new zipper at Elloits but the repair is a few bucks.. I would like to get her on the water prior to spending bucks on repairs. Thinking about a roller reef add on..

my jib zip has also lost a few teeth, but it gets by. i hear $5 will buy you a new slider, maybe try that 1st

Q2.. I dont understand why the DS needs to be changed to use the larger mast ball?? I was going to get a new mast base cuz I trailer and like the captive feature.. I have a ball from a 6.0 that I just sold and it slips ober the DS post with just a tiney bit of slop.. Seems like it would work fine with a bit of epoxy.. Perhaps that is not needed becaust the preasure is more downward and not as much side to side.. The mast base alone is not 150$ acording to the Murrys cat..

the old DS rod was found to bend, so the new kit is actually; new safer/pinned base, thicker DS rod on bigger nylon ball, probably could use the N6.0 ball for a bit but if you want the captive base anyway...

Q3 Anyone got a pix of how the jib hallyard fastens at the base of the mast. I am used to the cleats on Hobies to secure that line.. On mine N. 5.2 the sheet is "tied" to the pulley that conects to the wire to raise the jib. Seems like that is wrong.. Where does that line anchor??

just put the jib halyard through through the jam cleat on the mast. it was designed to go through the mast saddle, back up to the small block and then down to the jam cleat for 2:1 purchase and jib luff adjustment but unless you are racing 1-design with experienced crew it's more trouble than it's worth...

Q4.. Cant seem to find out how the "pivmatic" piece works on the tiller.. I Like the idea that it helps kick up over obstructions but not sure how it works. Forum folks all recomend adding it..

without the pivotmatic you could rip you transoms out.....it's a bugger to thread the bungee through when fitting

Q5.. Also confused about the trap lines. Going to solo a lot and cant seem to imagine a b. cord in the front x member working well.. How about aft where the tramp laces??

front bungee in front beam is only for crew trap line, too far forward for helm. helm bungee runs through tramp just aft of dagger well, as per pic in other thread

Q6.. The boat came with 3 (yes 3) new daggers. HOWEVER. they are thinner than the originals. The seem a bit sloppy in the wells?? Problem?? Also got to install bungi to hold them up..

you need bits of carpet glued in at top and bottom of well on both sides. thickness and amount of carpet important to get nice sliding fit. oem pre-1984? 5.2' had a bungee going forward from the top of the dagger but this can wear/damage the well in the hull so they switched to a side loader bungee, lots of pics about on the web but the key is getting the carpets bits right

Q Last. Righting line. My boat has the caps removed from the front x member and a piece of 3/8 line attached to a nut through the member with several hand holds. It stuffs in the x mamber till needed. Has one on each side. pull out as needed. Workable??

most recommend tying around the mast base and throwing over the high hull. needs to hold you flat just above the water. i've never righted mine solo as; i'm too light, on a lake the swell doesn't help you, and lake gusts that flip you over are too flukey to pick you up

Thanks in advance. Love this forum

halliske wrote:
Q 1.. The jib zipper is missing a few (2) teeth and is soo stiff.. I think the slider is bad. Tried silicone.. Bit of help.. Slides down but get stuck when unzipping.. I am rather sure I can zip it all the way to the foot however.. ...I think I can fish the forestay in the pocket prior to setpping the mast. How about raising the mast with a trap line to keep the sail clear of that operation and attaching the chain plate to the forstay using the tention from the trap line... Found a new zipper at Elloits but the repair is a few bucks.. I would like to get her on the water prior to spending bucks on repairs. Thinking about a roller reef add on..

my jib zip has also lost a few teeth, but it gets by. i hear $5 will buy you a new slider, maybe try that 1st

Q2.. I dont understand why the DS needs to be changed to use the larger mast ball?? I was going to get a new mast base cuz I trailer and like the captive feature.. I have a ball from a 6.0 that I just sold and it slips ober the DS post with just a tiney bit of slop.. Seems like it would work fine with a bit of epoxy.. Perhaps that is not needed becaust the preasure is more downward and not as much side to side.. The mast base alone is not 150$ acording to the Murrys cat..

the old DS rod was found to bend, so the new kit is actually; new safer/pinned base, thicker DS rod on bigger nylon ball, probably could use the N6.0 ball for a bit but if you want the captive base anyway...

Q3 Anyone got a pix of how the jib hallyard fastens at the base of the mast. I am used to the cleats on Hobies to secure that line.. On mine N. 5.2 the sheet is "tied" to the pulley that conects to the wire to raise the jib. Seems like that is wrong.. Where does that line anchor??

just put the jib halyard through through the jam cleat on the mast. it was designed to go through the mast saddle, back up to the small block and then down to the jam cleat for 2:1 purchase and jib luff adjustment but unless you are racing 1-design with experienced crew it's more trouble than it's worth...

Q4.. Cant seem to find out how the "pivmatic" piece works on the tiller.. I Like the idea that it helps kick up over obstructions but not sure how it works. Forum folks all recomend adding it..

without the pivotmatic you could rip you transoms out.....it's a bugger to thread the bungee through when fitting

Q5.. Also confused about the trap lines. Going to solo a lot and cant seem to imagine a b. cord in the front x member working well.. How about aft where the tramp laces??

front bungee in front beam is only for crew trap line, too far forward for helm. helm bungee runs through tramp just aft of dagger well, as per pic in other thread

Q6.. The boat came with 3 (yes 3) new daggers. HOWEVER. they are thinner than the originals. The seem a bit sloppy in the wells?? Problem?? Also got to install bungi to hold them up..

you need bits of carpet glued in at top and bottom of well on both sides. thickness and amount of carpet important to get nice sliding fit. oem pre-1984? 5.2' had a bungee going forward from the top of the dagger but this can wear/damage the well in the hull so they switched to a side loader bungee, lots of pics about on the web but the key is getting the carpets bits right

Q Last. Righting line. My boat has the caps removed from the front x member and a piece of 3/8 line attached to a nut through the member with several hand holds. It stuffs in the x mamber till needed. Has one on each side. pull out as needed. Workable??

most recommend tying around the mast base and throwing over the high hull. needs to hold you flat just above the water. i've never righted mine solo as; i'm too light, on a lake the swell doesn't help you, and lake gusts that flip you over are too flukey to pick you up

Thanks in advance. Love this forum

Q2. I put a helicoil in the larger diameter mast ball to thread it onto my current DS rod. Works great and the captive mast base is worth every penny

Q2. I put a helicoil in the larger diameter mast ball to thread it onto my current DS rod. Works great and the captive mast base is worth every penny

Hall,

I also have a '77 Nacra that I acquired last year, did a bit of fixing up, and sailed last summer.

Q1. I had a local guy (Wright Sail) sew me in a complete new jib zipper for $100.

Q3. Ed's described it well. I looked and unfortunately I don't have a pic of that

Q4. just jam the hold down line from the rudder in the piv. it will pop up from bow to stern when activated.

In case you have not found this guys site it has some good pics http://www.radesignz.com/nacra5.2redo.htm

Also Wolfman has some great rigging pics http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=74145

And check this link http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=35563 for more rigging pics.

This forum is awesome. I would have never made it on the water with out it.

THanks to all who took time to resond !! Had some of the pixs but not all. Olde guys need pixs..

Think I might try the helicoil thing for the ball cuz the difference in the size of the thread on the DS is so small and the strenght issue looks moot.. and it saves $$

The pivotmatic looks like a great up grade. Got the idea thx..

Going to sail it once or twice till I see how the jib lines work befor I relocate the tacks for them and redo the tramp for trap lines and under tramp jib rigging.

Same for the zipper prob cuz I may want to do a roller and that might change things.. Sail it.. try it.. I am in Northern Calif and could have gone out last weekend (Opps Sorry East Coast guys)

The riging of the jib is still not clear. Coming from a H 16 background.. In a H16 the tension in the rig is established by the downhaul of the jib line. The forestay is slack.. The forstay on the 5.2 is a monster and looks like it should carry the tension of the rigging.. Now my sheet from the bottom of the downhaul cable is tied OVER THE BLOCK AND AROUND THE PULLEY. My guess is that the block should have a bar under the pulley that the line attaches to so the pulley is free to apply tension whenit is rigged with the block in the bottom of the mast and is tightened.. Will try to get a pix tomorrow.

BUT,,, Does the rig tension leave the forestay with tention or is that done with the downhaul for the jib and the tension end up in the leach of the jib.?? Or.. Is there just a bit of slack in the rigging. side stays and forestay??? Should the forestay be tight enough to support the leach at all times??

PS.. Whats with the spar on the 5.2 that is adevrtized now in the clasified?? Looks like it has a spar and the stock lines from the hulls...

Thanks for the info. Buzz out to Calif and go for a sail on her with me.. Going to have the new sheets and the mast base installed next week.. Thx Hal

Think I might try the helicoil thing for the ball cuz the difference in the size of the thread on the DS is so small and the strenght issue looks moot.. and it saves $$

In a H16 the tension in the rig is established by the downhaul of the jib line. The forestay is slack.

Different horse the Nacra is. When I first picked up my 5.7 I took tons of useless pictures. Occasionally one of these proves useful!
In the photo below look at the top right. You can see 3 swagings, & 2 of the three thimbles. The top & bottom thimbles (or left & right if you visualize the mast being vertical) are shrouds, going to the respective chain-plates on the hulls. The center one is the fore stay-that will go down to a 10 hole adjuster that connects via a shackle to the two bridal wires,(one from each hull) forming an inverted "Y". The thinner wires you see are for the double traps.

The mast rake is set by moving the fore stay up or down in the 10 hole chainplate. (I borrowed that photo, note it is rigged wrong, the bridal wires should be inside the chainplate to properly distribute loads).
The rig is tensioned by setting the mast rake,(as above) then set one shroud in the appropriate hole (again each shroud connects to a 10 hole chainplate). Have a buddy pull on a trap wire, or put on a harness & hang from the wire while you set the second shroud. Voila, you now have the rig tensioned & the jib is still sitting at your feet.

Now observe the wire that goes around the block attached to the mast. That is the jib halyard, with block attached,(I think this is the setup you have). The top of jib will attach via a shackle to the end of the wire at top left of photo. As you haul the jib up, you zipper it up as it slides UP the forestay. The tack of the jib is then attached to the jib hanger (it is hanging down in the bottom photo, you would rotate it upwards & attach jib). Now you will tension the jib independently of the rig. With the jib raised, the block with becket (left center of top photo) will now be near the base of the mast. You raised the jib with the long line attached to the becket. When the line was attached, it was done so as to leave appx 2 feet of length as a trailing end. This does not show in the photo. Visualize a 25' line, tied to the beckett so as to leave a 2' tail. Comprende?
Once you raise the jib, take that 2' end & run it through the appropriate strap eye on the mast, back around the pulley, then through the jam cleat on the mast to hold it. This gives 3:1 to tension the jib. You don't need to tension it like a piano wire, you're not in the Worlds with an old 5.2, just take the wrinkles out of the jib, then stow the halyard in the tramp pocket.
All that's left is to attach the lines from the jib blocks, see the manual for this if in doubt. These photos & more are in my album under members 1984 Nacra 5.7 Click on photos in post to get full size.
Hope this works for you.

Edited by Edchris177 on Feb 08, 2011 - 04:28 PM.

Thanks again to all who have taken a sec to respond !!!

1..JIb Rigging This is a pic of the Halyard conection to the jib tac.. ( If the pix works..Figured that it was originally and probably did not have the wire piece( SLO Sail shop make 2 styles of jib halyard).. So Going to install a block with a becket there .. At the base of the mast only a eye and the jam cleat now.. Going to install a cheek block there. Center Starb. side of the front of the mast OK for the cheek block?? What was the duty of the eye there on the lower part of the mast there ??

2..Mast base and DS pin. Is there really a difference in the durability of the 2 sizes of the DS if you lower the mast properly?? YURDLE.. Was that your DS?? Not sure that it is worth it to install a bigger DS??

3..I have the old single post mast rotation control. Looks like it will work?? Worth the retrofit of a newer style?? Same for the spreaders. (How about sealing the old style spreaders to seal the mast??

4.. Sailed H 16s.. NO CENTER BAR on the tramp. Looks like a nightmare.. Read in other posts that it can be gone with some "bracket" retro work. Not clear which bracket???

5..Going to put some gromets in the tramp for the trap lines and to relocate the jib blocks. Think I can figure out the aft Trap lines. Are the forward ones OK in the X Memeber??

6.. The boom has the older 3 block set-up. Worth getting a new block for that?? Located on whitch tac point.. Want to contribute??. Send cash..

7.. Have a roller set up from an H18. Planning to single most of the time.. Might be handy to depower.. Looks like it may work.. Any tips or advice??

8.. Now the hulls.. The last owner painted the keels with a anti-fouling paint. Blue in the pix.. Looks like he primed it with some kind of primer..

Brownish in the pix.. The Blue comes off with Acetone and better with MEK..

Any prob using those on the glass?? The brown will need some rubbing compound or sanding i think.. I would love to have an all white hull..

Questions.. Gelcoat (or paint) the whole hull?? Only from the line down?? Good news is that the keel has NO BEACH WEAR !! Needs no glass or build-up.. Oh Yah. Even if it is a 77.. The hulls are shine-en. (Stored insidde for lots of years.. even in Calif).. What is the polish of choice?? ..

By the way, the Hobies in the back ground of one of the pixs are not all mine !! I"m not that ill.. Got storage. Actually the H 20 and the Nacra 5.8 the call this place home are elsewhere for maintainance.. Not too a big fleet though..

If pixs dont show ther are in the Album section..

Thx Hal

SORRY THE PIX LINKS WERE NOT ok AND DONT SEEM TO BE WORKING. CHECK OUT THE Catsailor Photo ALBUMS 5.2 RE-DO Hal

2..Mast base and DS pin. Is there really a difference in the durability of the 2 sizes of the DS if you lower the mast properly?? YURDLE.. Was that your DS?? Not sure that it is worth it to install a bigger DS??

That was my DS after banging on it with a rubber mallet to try to straighten it out. It was almost a full 90 degrees over initially. That's the 9/16 rod. I wouldn't go smaller, and I would retrofit it if I had a smaller one.

That said, there are some caveats:
.It didn't dismast, although we had to rotate the mast by pushing on the rotator after tacking, as the base casting was catching.
.I did more damage in ~15 months to that cat than the previous 25 years.
.When the step bent, we were double trapped in intense wind and lake chop, which is extremely tough on the boat.
.It makes a neat story.

So to each his own, but I've got one of the smaller old style laying in my garage, and I'm going to build another 9/16.

3..I have the old single post mast rotation control. Looks like it will work?? Worth the retrofit of a newer style?? Same for the spreaders. (How about sealing the old style spreaders to seal the mast??

I've disassembled those spreaders, and after doing so, I don't think you can seal them. That's not to say it's technically impossible, but realistically it doesn't seem like it would work.

I never had trouble with my 5.2 mast filling with water, though.

6.. The boom has the older 3 block set-up. Worth getting a new block for that?? Located on whitch tac point.. Want to contribute??. Send cash..

Sail it first, beg later.

halliske wrote: SORRY THE PIX LINKS WERE NOT ok AND DONT SEEM TO BE WORKING. CHECK OUT THE Catsailor Photo ALBUMS 5.2 RE-DO Hal

can you provide the link to your album?

4.. Sailed H 16s.. NO CENTER BAR on the tramp. Looks like a nightmare.. Read in other posts that it can be gone with some "bracket" retro work. Not clear which bracket???

if you remove the bar you have to stop the beams from twisting in their cradles. most use stainless rivets to rivet the stainless beam straps to the beams

Edited by erice on Feb 15, 2011 - 01:55 AM.

I put a roller furling kit from an F-18 on my 5.2. I LOVE it, it saved my "arsch" last year when I was over powered in strong winds and had to beat dead to windward in a narrow rocky channel. Would not have made it without stowing the jib or the main otherwise. That is darned hard to do when the slightest false move on the tramp already starts to flip the boat...
I got a new forestay, it was due anyway. First I mounted the pigtail and swivel then connected the jib luff and raised it, tightened it and measured the resulting excess on the original forestay. Then I had one made to the right length (allow for variation in mast rake!) In other words aim for the center hole in the chainplate on the rotator drum. That way I knew it HAD to fit. And it does.

Re center bar: Just lose it! Do as erice says, you won't be sorry. The bracket you speak of may be the center bar's rear mounting bracket. You can't just throw it away because the mainsheet swivel and cleat also attach to it. I left mine original but plan on removing the part that used to go inside the center bar. I've only bruised my knees badly on that a couple of times though, so there's no big rush... OR the beam straps on the forward (main) beam. I put 4mm monel rivets in at roughly the "2 o'clock" and "ten o'clock" positions. After a season including some very hard sailing, salt water and zero maintenance to those specific areas it all still looks great.

Dennis

I used stainless rivets in the main beam/straps. I think I used 1 per strap. I also over-tightened the bolts a touch (not recommended.)

I like the footrest that the fitting under the traveler sheet cleat provides in some situations. I've only hurt myself on it once that I can recall, and it was very minor.

I would lose the center beam if I hadn't already.

LiNK TO THE PIXS IS

http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=79384
Thanks for the info on the roller reef, DS re-do, sealing the mast and the center bar removal. Going to try the reefer after i get her sorted out. The center bar goes now..
Got a new set of sheets in today from SLO Sails.. Going to have them re-do the tramp.. $60 for new jib slots, trap line grommets, trim and stitch the center bar material and re-stich a shot spot that is weak.. Oh and Hiking straps install... Great deal. The sheets look cool to.. Great colors. Ex material..

Going to install the new style dagger board straps. What type of screw for the fiberglass hull??

If you get a sec, check out the pix and give your feed back on paint removal and refinishing of the hulls.. and Polish..

Know any one who need an extra Hobie. I have a few..

Thx for all the info. Cheers Hal

P.S. Have the furler. Need a swivel.. Anyone got one to sell?? ( I have a winery her in CA.. Or trade for vino?? )
Thx Hal

http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=79384&g2_GALLERYSID=547ceb4d6c742c20a4839e86d47c2fe7...

above is a link to the 5 pics

you shouldn't need to put a screw through the f/glass hull for the dagger side-loader bungee. mine has 2 stainless saddles mounted on the alloy tramp track base with stainless screws

gelcoat is pretty tough, if i wanted to remove paint from gelocat i guess i would start by putting a dab of gel paint stripper on as a test. and if it worked without damaging the gelcoat i would use rubber gloves and a stainless wool pot scrubber to remove as much as possible

fair chance it will not be perfect under there though, if not the easiest fix would be to mix up some white gelcoat and hand paint it on to the hull on a hot day

Edited by erice on Feb 16, 2011 - 06:50 AM.

THx ERICE.. Saw those on a 6.0.. Thats what I neeed to install. Mine does not have them. It has a small hook forward on the top of the hull for a bungi to the top of the Dagger B. If I go through the track base it still goes through the hull I thiink.. Will check today.. Also going to try the stripper idea. THought of that but unsure how tough the glass is. The blue stuff comes off with MEK.. Thx Hal

I rivetted a couple of hammock hooks to my deck for side loaders. I would suggest just putting a couple of brass grommets in the tramp on either side and tying the shock cord underneath for the side loaders. To be honest even the shock cord going to the front of the boat isn't that bad a system. The shock cords are pretty much out of the way when the dagger boards are down.

Hi All.. Going to get the girl in the water this week or next.. Still need help with rigging please

Since the forestay slides in the jib pocket.. What is the tension on that forstay. Do I snug up the rigging and tighten it by moving the shroud tention up by adlusting the chain plates?? My studys say that the mast rake should be slightly aft of center.. That should be set with the forestay tack at the fore stay chainplate?? In the Hobie days the forstay did not support the tension the Jib did. Sounds like I need a balance of tension from the jib dounhaul and the forstay tension after the rig is tightened..

Cant seem to find a threading guide to my Main blocks.. Hope to post a pix of the setup..

Also have a pulley mounted on the clip on the rear of the rear xmember. Cant figure out what it is for. The main sheet tacked there after runing through the cleat and guide and traveler..

Will try to get pix on my album for those things Thx in advance.. What a help this has been in geting started with the new boat.. Hal]

Pix are in the Album under 5.2 redo.. Thx Hal

Edited by halliske on Jun 08, 2011 - 12:22 PM.

Tension the rig before you put the jib up. Set the rake using the forestay pin and then set the shrouds. Start by setting both shrouds to the lowest pin hole that you can reach easily on both sides. Next go to one side and go one more pin down, go to the other side and grab a trap wire (or have a friend do so) and pull it so you can put the shroud in the same hole as the other side. THat should be enough tension for the rig and still let the mast rotate properly.

Your jib should never have more tension in it than the forestay, you jib won't handle the load of the entire rig. You don't need a lot of tension in the jib luff, just enough to get the wrinkles out, plus maybe a little bit.

Which main blocks do you have? Here are the Harken Reeving Diagrams. Likely you have a 6:1 or 7:1 with a hexacat base. YOu can use the 8:1 here to figure it out. If anyone has some better examples that would be great.

http://www.harken.com/rigtips/Reeving_Diagrams.php

If the block is in the center and faces sternward it is to give you 3:1 purchase on the traveler. Your traveler line goes through the cam cleat on the beam through the block and back to the cam cleat. You then tie it off to the becket on the cam cleat.

D.

Wolfie. Thx for the link to Harken. NEVER Thought about checking there .. Duh... Looks like I have a 6:1 with a block added on the becket.. So it should reevie like the 8:1except that it tacks on the boom and not using a quad bock... making it a 7.375;1 He He.. The lower block I have is the 6:1 Dead end on the cam.. (Photo in the album)..

Now.. For the rear ward facing block on the Xmember.. I could see things working IF.. The line went through the cam cleat.. out to the traveler.. Through the block and back to the traveler. But with the with the line going from the cam cleat to the block, the line runs OVER the traveler track which would preclude the traveler from tacking. AND there is no tac or becket on the traveler to tac the line to.. (Might run it through the U shackle) Supose i could use a clip of some sort.. Not sure I need a 3:1 on the traveler. OK OK Got thinkin about it and went out and asked the girl. She said.. STUPID. I am not a Hobie.. Use a seperate smaller line to get me in and out.. So used to using the tail of the main sheet to trim the traveler.. The space when the block is turned outward does not allow enough roon for the larger sheet to run smoothly.. Still not sure I need a 3:1 cuz in my hobie days the traveler was allways more central for hauling a** l.. Thx so much for the hints..

News from California... is that i just got a 5.2 for $150 with a trailer (all apart) with re-done gel cote on the hulls. Got to put her toghter. Got extra trailers to do in the mean time.. Might need a rudder casting..(got an extra I can buy).. I think it is rather complete except for the casting.. .. P S How do you tell the difference from right and left.. Opps Port and starb.. Thanks for your time and interest.. If u bee in Calif. May have an extre 5.2 you can use !! Hav a small winery here so if the wind is down we still have fun.. Cheers Hal

Edited by halliske on Jun 09, 2011 - 07:35 PM.

Oops sorry it goes back to the eye strap on the traveller, hard to picture when you are 2 hours away from your boat and forgot to take a good picture. The same connection you use to attache the mainsheet block to the traveller. You could just remove the pulley though and tie the traveller line to the eye strap the pulley was on. Like you said, you really only need 2:1 on the traveller.

Port and starboard castings are the same, so are the rudders and daggerboards. If you need a casting talk to Dan Berger and Prindle Pete on here both part out boats on a regular basis. I believe all the rudder castings for nacras are the same.

May take you up on that one day.

Hi Dave .. Just brought the new 5.2 home today.. WOW what a steal.. NEW.. wheels, tires axel, berrings for the trailer .. Fresh gel cote.. Good Sails.. Needs 1 rudder and casting as well as linkage.. jib blocks.. mast dimond wires and struts and turnbuckles.. Have the missing rigging from my present boat.. and needs a tramp.. 150$.. A STeal .. Do you have emails for dan and Pete.. Love to start on the project.. Thx Hal

Hal

Someone listed N5.0 parts rudders and casting for sale on this site yesterday, That might work?

Where in Ca. are you sailing, We are in the Ventura area if you ever want to venture this way.