Finally I got my boat wet last weekend for the first time this season. It was fun 😀 but I spent my time mostly on filling the boat and making needed adjustments.
First, the most important item I discovered is lee helm problem. When I let go the tiller, the boat starts to fall off. Not much but it does. Overall I don’t feel any pressure on rudders and boat responds quickly to any steering changes. Noted that was more difficult to tack but I am not sure if that is related to lee helm.
The adjustment screws in the rudder castings are all the way out (already flush with outside castings) preventing rudders to be moved further aft. The screw is about 1” long, should it be longer? 😕
The forestay is on to the last hole of ten pin adjuster bracket and making bigger mast rake with out adding some sort of extension not possible. 😕
Since these are skeg hulls and I sailed solo, may I be sitting too far aft? 😕
Do you have any suggestions?
not a very scientific mode of determining mast rake, but i noticed the same.
the more you rake the mast back, the more you want to put the rudders under the hulls(foreward)d vica versa. mayby try the mast in the middle spot with the rudders in the middle then tweek to your preference.
coastrat
coastrat wrote: the more you rake the mast back, the more you want to put the rudders under the hulls(foreward)d vica versa. mayby try the mast in the middle spot with the rudders in the middle then tweek to your preference.
I am out of screw adjustment for rudders, I can only move them under (forward), so I guess I need to extend the forestay and rake mast little more?
I can only move them under (forward),
that's what i'm talking about.. move them foreward and see what that does. unless you have a forestay from another boat, there should be a sweet spot in there somewhere.
coastrat
Is the bias preference slight windward helm..... so the boat automatically rounds up if the tiller is dropped? Slight, so you are not fighting the helm and applying brakes all the time? Guess I need to read up on "tuning for dummies".
matt922 wrote: not a very scientific mode of determining mast rake, but i noticed the same.
The mast rake on my boat is very close to yours. DO you also have adjusting screws flush with the outside of castings?
scotts1w wrote: Is the bias preference slight windward helm..... so the boat automatically rounds up if the tiller is dropped? Slight, so you are not fighting the helm and applying brakes all the time? Guess I need to read up on "tuning for dummies".
Here you go.
If you can read and digest the information in this article you will have it nailed and be considered a guru of helm.
Articles: What's All This About Weather Helm?
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Damon Linkous
coastrat wrote:
I can only move them under (forward),
that's what i'm talking about.. move them foreward and see what that does. unless you have a forestay from another boat, there should be a sweet spot in there somewhere.
Hmm, I thought that to correct lee helm one should move rudders aft and bigger the rake, the better pointing ability. :-O
I would like to keep that rake as I don't think is excessive. Next time I am on the water I will play with the rudders little bit and will see how the boat sails. I already marked pulling ropes to give good indication how rudders are positioned.
DamonLinkous wrote: [quote=scotts1w]Is the bias preference slight windward helm..... so the boat automatically rounds up if the tiller is dropped? Slight, so you are not fighting the helm and applying brakes all the time? Guess I need to read up on "tuning for dummies".
Here you go.
If you can read and digest the information in this article you will have it nailed and be considered a guru of helm.
Articles: What's All This About Weather Helm?
Wow what an awesome article. I now understand helm and "tiller tug" haha definitely worth a read.
DamonLinkous wrote: [quote=scotts1w]Is the bias preference slight windward helm..... so the boat automatically rounds up if the tiller is dropped? Slight, so you are not fighting the helm and applying brakes all the time? Guess I need to read up on "tuning for dummies".
Here you go.
If you can read and digest the information in this article you will have it nailed and be considered a guru of helm.
Articles: What's All This About Weather Helm?
Thanks Damon, that is good reading with lots of info.
"Mast rake increases weather helm which increases tiller tug and resultant drag..."
Based on this, I am planning on adding 5 hole plate to the forestay to increse the rake and if that will result in tiller tug, i will move rudders forward. The increased rake should decrease lee helm.
Am I right or missing something?
windadict wrote:
"Mast rake increases weather helm which increases tiller tug and resultant drag..."Based on this, I am planning on adding 5 hole plate to the forestay to increse the rake and if that will result in tiller tug, i will move rudders forward. The increased rake should decrease lee helm.
Am I right or missing something?
Sounds good, just make sure you only adjust one thing at a time between test sails.
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Damon Linkous
I have a 5.0 also, and have lee helm. Its a little freaky at times. in over 7-8 mph winds, my shoulder gets a bit tired from pushing on the tiller. Really sucks when the hotstick cam lets loose upwind and the boat rounds down to a beamer, right now. Seems like the main beam could have been moved back a bit to balance the boat better. I guess the fix might be to throw on a nice mylar squaretop main, self tacker, and a smaller jib. So much for my little cheap single hander! Its a fun little boat.
Its a little freaky at times.
As you know it gets even freakier in stronger winds. Pulling on the tiller keeps you attached to the boat, pushing on it removes you from the boat.
Does it occur on only 1 tack, or both? If it is both, it CAN be solved with rudder & mast adjustment. If it is only 1, it can be a number of things. Unequal shrouds, causing the mast to lean, bent beam, boat not "square", or diamond wires at different tensions. If non of that solves the problem, there is still an easy fix. Adjust the one rudder to trail further out. Before I figured out lee helm on port tack of my 5.7, I compensated by cleating the rudder pull down line an inch from where it "bottomed". I would pull the rudder down til it hit the stop, then let out 1" of line, then lock it in the cleat.
It totally got rid of lee helm, & the trailing rudder was not an issue, as on the other tack it was mostly clear of the water.
E C Hilliard
Nacra 5.7
Bombardier Invitation
Yea, both tacs, sounds like its prevailant on the 5.0. I haven't been able to take the mast back much yet. Next time out I will. Might be best to add a self Tacker and a square top main. That may solve all of my problems.
YES
Is the bias preference slight windward helm..... so the boat automatically rounds up if the tiller is dropped?
couple things to keep in mind
raking the mast forward typically powers you up and increases healing action
conversely raking the mast back decreases healing action
when you think your rudders are out of alignment ... work on 1 rudder at a time (like what damon said above ... adjust one variable at a time)
MN3