Hi all, new to this great community. I recently purchased a 1996 NACRA 6.0 NA with no instructions. I found on line the older NACRA assembly manual but the resolution of the pics is too low to make any sense of them. Can anyone provide some guidance (pictures preferred) on how to rig the 4 way jib system for that boat?
Thanks in advance
some people use a bungee to "pull" the 2 jib blocks inboard (as seen in the image below)
i find this completely useless as when you sheet the jib it will pull inward - just more gear to fail and get snagged on
Edited by MN3 on Apr 15, 2018 - 07:01 PM.
MN3
MN3, that is very helpful, thank you.....it now makes sense π but I agree, I don't see the advantage of such setup....if the blocks were mounted on the front cross-beam, they would achieve the same function with less clutter... Now that I think about it, the only advantage of this is that it will allow for a larger jib to be used.....
Edited by alaing on Apr 15, 2018 - 08:58 PM.
if you have the right jib them the blocks on the front beam would't work. your origional jib overlaps the mast.
i didn't like all the wires and blocks on the tramp and went to a self tacker.
I don't see the advantage of such setup....if the blocks were mounted on the front cross-beam, they would achieve the same function with less clutter... Now that I think about it, the only advantage of this is that it will allow for a larger jib to be used.....
The advantage of this set up is you can in-haul or out-haul your blocks for optimal downwind/upwind settings
and forward and aft for different conditions and headings as well - it is a very good system
the part i was saying is not needed is only the bungee that is used by many skippers (and suggested as in that hobie image)
moving the blocks to the front beam would eliminate the ability to adjust fore and aft (which is a valuable adjustment), and would require a non overlapping jib, or one with a large roach like a hobie16 jib (which is notorious for getting hung up)
Putting a self tacker setup would also use a much smaller jib and you would lose a lot of down wind (and reaching) speed with this setup
modern race boats utilize this because they have eliminated the reaching leg of racing (pins) and use a spinnaker for the downwind leg of the race
I would recommend you use it stock (at least at first)
if you absolutely hate the lines across your deck / you can remove them and "live with it" attached to the track (outhauled) and just accept the fact you can't point as high upwind (i wouldn't)
or you can spend a grand or so and upgrade to a self tacker to clean up your deck and live with the smaller jib
If you don't race, and/or you don't sail with other cats, and/or your crew (wife/gf) refuses to sail w you due to all the lines on deck ... .it's not a big deal - but if you sail w other boats, not being able to point as high/ or sail fast downwind will bum you out
MN3
My setup is similar to the bottom photo Andrew posted, except I don't have the bungee pulling it inward. If you can adjust the placement of the blocks fore and aft, I recommend you consider whether you will sail mostly solo or mostly with crew. I've sailed as crew with folks who's boats are set up for solo. Inevitably, I'm sitting on the hull either in line with the blocks or forward of them. When turning, it's very difficult to keep the line aft of the block. When the boat turns and you uncleat what will become windward side, the line tends to re-cleat itself. You have to uncleat it a second time before fully setting the jib.
It's tough to explain but makes for a very frustrated skipper and crew.
When turning, it's very difficult to keep the line aft of the block. When the boat turns and you uncleat what will become windward side, the line tends to re-cleat itself.
Crew constantly fouls the lines
that is why you must scream at and smack them often ymmv π
MN3
ejb wrote: if you have the right jib them the blocks on the front beam would't work. your origional jib overlaps the mast.
i didn't like all the wires and blocks on the tramp and went to a self tacker.
EJB, you are correct and that is the conclusion I also came to....I have the original jib and it overlaps the masts so the 4 way jib system setup is required. thanks
MN3 wrote:
I don't see the advantage of such setup....if the blocks were mounted on the front cross-beam, they would achieve the same function with less clutter... Now that I think about it, the only advantage of this is that it will allow for a larger jib to be used.....
The advantage of this set up is you can in-haul or out-haul your blocks for optimal downwind/upwind settings
and forward and aft for different conditions and headings as well - it is a very good system
the part i was saying is not needed is only the bungee that is used by many skippers (and suggested as in that hobie image)
moving the blocks to the front beam would eliminate the ability to adjust fore and aft (which is a valuable adjustment), and would require a non overlapping jib, or one with a large roach like a hobie16 jib (which is notorious for getting hung up)
Putting a self tacker setup would also use a much smaller jib and you would lose a lot of down wind (and reaching) speed with this setup
modern race boats utilize this because they have eliminated the reaching leg of racing (pins) and use a spinnaker for the downwind leg of the race
I would recommend you use it stock (at least at first)
if you absolutely hate the lines across your deck / you can remove them and "live with it" attached to the track (outhauled) and just accept the fact you can't point as high upwind (i wouldn't)
or you can spend a grand or so and upgrade to a self tacker to clean up your deck and live with the smaller jib
If you don't race, and/or you don't sail with other cats, and/or your crew (wife/gf) refuses to sail w you due to all the lines on deck ... .it's not a big deal - but if you sail w other boats, not being able to point as high/ or sail fast downwind will bum you out
MN3, understood and also agree with your statement. I will definitely need to do a little bit of learning with this setup and not planning to mod specially due to the compromises it will drive. Thanks
dartsailors wrote: My setup is similar to the bottom photo Andrew posted, except I don't have the bungee pulling it inward. If you can adjust the placement of the blocks fore and aft, I recommend you consider whether you will sail mostly solo or mostly with crew. I've sailed as crew with folks who's boats are set up for solo. Inevitably, I'm sitting on the hull either in line with the blocks or forward of them. When turning, it's very difficult to keep the line aft of the block. When the boat turns and you uncleat what will become windward side, the line tends to re-cleat itself. You have to uncleat it a second time before fully setting the jib.
It's tough to explain but makes for a very frustrated skipper and crew.
Dartsailors, so do you have a rope instead of the bungee or nothing?
Initially will be sailing solo. Thanks
MN3 wrote:
When turning, it's very difficult to keep the line aft of the block. When the boat turns and you uncleat what will become windward side, the line tends to re-cleat itself.
Crew constantly fouls the lines
that is why you must scream at and smack them often ymmv π
π So true
Dartsailors, so do you have a rope instead of the bungee or nothing?
there is no substituting a bungee for a line
the bungee's sole purpose is to pull the blocks together inboard
rope would do nothing and would serve no purpose
MN3
alaing wrote: MN3, that is very helpful, thank you.....it now makes sense π but I agree, I don't see the advantage of such setup....if the blocks were mounted on the front cross-beam, they would achieve the same function with less clutter... Now that I think about it, the only advantage of this is that it will allow for a larger jib to be used.....Edited by alaing on Apr 15, 2018 - 08:58 PM.
I have seen this set up on a couple of 6.0, but never on the 5.8, 5.5, or 5.2... I am thinking that it was maybe part of the "arms races while they were keeping up with the Jones's" when Prindle started to outfit this set up on the 19 and 18-2...
I had these on my Prindle 18-2.... after a couple of sails I took it off... and got rid of the deck clutter... The 6.0 is a pretty powerful boat... you may get along fine without it
Do you have some pics of your 6.0?
JohnES wrote: [quote=alaing]MN3, that is very helpful, thank you.....it now makes sense π but I agree, I don't see the advantage of such setup....if the blocks were mounted on the front cross-beam, they would achieve the same function with less clutter... Now that I think about it, the only advantage of this is that it will allow for a larger jib to be used.....Edited by alaing on Apr 15, 2018 - 08:58 PM.
I have seen this set up on a couple of 6.0, but never on the 5.8, 5.5, or 5.2... I am thinking that it was maybe part of the "arms races while they were keeping up with the Jones's" when Prindle started to outfit this set up on the 19 and 18-2...
I had these on my Prindle 18-2.... after a couple of sails I took it off... and got rid of the deck clutter... The 6.0 is a pretty powerful boat... you may get along fine without it
Do you have some pics of your 6.0?
JohnES, I will have to test it out and see how crazy it drives me.....I was thinking of getting a roller furler to allow depowering on demand when the boat becomes too much to sail solo under strong wind...not ready yet to give up the NA jib size π
Pic of my boat below
Edited by alaing on Apr 17, 2018 - 02:39 PM.