If it's a marine eye swage is the listed length to the center of the hole or the farthest edge of the hole?
Edited by tamumpower1 on Mar 24, 2016 - 01:03 PM.
It should be center of the hole to center of the hole. It's called the pin-pin length.
That's what I thought but I saw I diagram once that went to the edge. I suppose if it's a 1/4" clevis pin that we are really only talking about 1/8" difference. In the life of the cable it's going to stretch more than that so probably not a big worry.
The reason I was asking was because I was converting a cable that had a machine swage to a nicopress sleeve and if the cable is supposed to be X length long and that is to the center of the pin then I need to add an 1/8 to the length because of the nicopress thimble
Edited by tamumpower1 on Mar 24, 2016 - 04:35 PM.
If it's an eye or fork fitting (swage), then it would be measured center of hole to center of hole. If it's a thimble fitting (nicopress), then it would be measured to the inside edge of the fitting.
sm
Steve M.
Dogboy wrote: If it's an eye or fork fitting (swage), then it would be measured center of hole to center of hole. If it's a thimble fitting (nicopress), then it would be measured to the inside edge of the fitting.
sm
Standard measurements are made "bearing surface to bearing surface" at the far side of the hole, not center:
http://www.apsltd.com/how-to-measure-standing-rigging/
Some folks call it "pull to pull."
leeboweffect wrote:
Standard measurements are made "bearing surface to bearing surface" at the far side of the hole, not center:
May be how APS measures rigging, but not typical for the wire rope industry when measuring eyes and forks. Regardless, it's prudent to check with the manufacturer before sending measurements.
http://www.loosco.com/resource-library/technical-information/standard-points-of-measure/
sm
Steve M.
Dogboy wrote: [quote=leeboweffect]
Standard measurements are made "bearing surface to bearing surface" at the far side of the hole, not center:
May be how APS measures rigging, but not typical for the wire rope industry when measuring eyes and forks. Regardless, it's prudent to check with the manufacturer before sending measurements.
http://www.loosco.com/resource-library/technical-information/standard-points-of-measure/
sm
I could of course measure my existing rigging but it's not brand new so its probably stretched making the measurements for new rigging unreliable.
I had to email and call around to a large amount of suppliers and hobie dealers before anyone would give me the intended stock Hobie 18 rigging lengths due to liability, protection of future business etc.
For the record this is what I got:
Shrouds - 20' 5"
Bridle - 3' 5 1/8"
Upper Forestay - 24.5"
Lower Forestay - 17' 2"
Trapeze - 19'
The lengths that really matter are the bridle lengths because it doesn't matter if I'm off by 1/8" on the shrouds or forestay since those have chain plate adjustments.
Edited by tamumpower1 on Apr 01, 2016 - 02:52 PM.
Dogboy wrote: May be how APS measures rigging
Murray's also uses the "pull to pull" dimension when specifying rigging length:
I have a set of shrouds from my other boat that I got from salty dog and are only about 3-4 sails old that I could measure but when we are talking about 1/8" difference in length I don't know if I'd be able to get a reliable measurement.
tamumpower1 wrote:
I had to email and call around to a large amount of suppliers and hobie dealers before anyone would give me the intended stock Hobie 18 rigging lengths due to liability, protection of future business etc.
This information is available publically on the Hobie website...
http://static.hobiecat.com/2010_archive/support/pdfs/WireGuide.pdf
HOBIE 18
Forestay Pigtail Thimble both ends w/swivel 5/32 1 x19 24 1/2" *
Lower Forestay Fork and eye 5/32 1x19 17' 2"
Bridle Fork both ends 5/32 1x19 3' - 5 1/8"
Shroud Thimble and eye 5/32 1x19 20' 5"
Jib Halyard D-shackle, thimble 1/16 7x7 17' 1"
Diamond Wire Fork and turnbuckle 1/8 1x19 17'
Trapwires Thimble, stops and handles 3/32 1x19 19'
tamumpower1 wrote: The lengths that really matter are the bridle lengths because it doesn't matter if I'm off by 1/8" on the shrouds or forestay since those have chain plate adjustments
The way you compensate for variations in the bridle wire lengths is by changing the forestay adjuster position. But you're correct in that you don't want the bridles to be too short as you could potentially damage the hulls if you use short wires. This is actually spoken to in the Hobie 18 class rules...
4. WIRES
Bridle lengths shall not be shorter that 41 in, (104.14 cm) pin to pin.
sm
Steve M.
Dogboy wrote: [quote=tamumpower1]
I had to email and call around to a large amount of suppliers and hobie dealers before anyone would give me the intended stock Hobie 18 rigging lengths due to liability, protection of future business etc.
This information is available publically on the Hobie website...
http://static.hobiecat.com/2010_archive/support/pdfs/WireGuide.pdf
HOBIE 18
Forestay Pigtail Thimble both ends w/swivel 5/32 1 x19 24 1/2" *
Lower Forestay Fork and eye 5/32 1x19 17' 2"
Bridle Fork both ends 5/32 1x19 3' - 5 1/8"
Shroud Thimble and eye 5/32 1x19 20' 5"
Jib Halyard D-shackle, thimble 1/16 7x7 17' 1"
Diamond Wire Fork and turnbuckle 1/8 1x19 17'
Trapwires Thimble, stops and handles 3/32 1x19 19'
sm
Dang, I dug for that before and didn't find anything in the support section. Where was that link?
Google "Hobie Wire Guide"
sm
Steve M.
Dogboy wrote: Google "Hobie Wire Guide"
sm
very tricky.