hobie 18 hull geneology

What is your definition of a good hull? There were some early 80's hulls known as "red line" hulls due to the red glue used to connect the deck to the lower hull. You can/could see a red line where the glue shows through on the lip seam. I believe those were the light weight early hulls, I think they were also more prone to fatigue. So that gets back to the question of what you consider "good" traits for the hull.

pknapp66 wrote: I know that some h18 hulls are more desirable than others. What years are known for good hulls, and what years were they not so good.

Because of the change in ownership of Hobie over the years and lessons learned from years of production and warranties, there were many small changes in the hulls over the years. I'll try to make a timeline of the biggest ones.

1978-1983 Extremely strong heavy hulls, the original layup was nearly indestructible, and they sold a lot of boats in these years, which is why you still see so many Hobie 18's from this group still around.

1984-1986 Much lighter hulls due to a new fiberglass layup schedule, during the 80's these years were the hot ones for class racing because they were a lot lighter than earlier boats. Unfortunately the lightness came at the expense of the extreme longevity of the earlier (and later) boats. Nowadays if you find one of these in great condition it's still a good find IF you carefully inspect it around the front beams, and add the reinforcement that was done in later years.

1987-1988 Same hulls but with additional fiberglass added to the inside of the hulls near the beams. Also some large metal reinforcement plates are bolted to the sides of the hulls under the lip where the front beams and shrouds attach. to spread the load. Additionally, 1987 model year was when the upgraded rudder system (with plastic cams) was introduced when it was found that the old metal system didn't age well.

1989 + These hulls have the best fiberglass layup and combine the lightness of the lightest hulls but with more strength and stiffness. They incorporate all the improvements of earlier years without "patching". These hulls also have a redesigned dagger trunk that doesn't have the lip in the inside at the bottom. The 1989+ H18's are the best you can get, unfortunately by that time they weren't selling very many, so they are hard to find.

Others may be able to add more details, but I think that is pretty much the way it went.

You should post that in the tech gallery with maybe sample pics of each if anyone can supply them.

Great post Damon. Exactly the info that I was looking for. Do you know how much lighter the mid "80s
hulls are than the earlier ones? Biggest complaint I have about my '81 is that it is heavy.

Heavy usually means wet. OR multiple-times repaired.
I put the D-shaped reinforcements under the crossbar lips on EVERY Hobie 18 I ever owned and raced. None ever cracked - after my first brand new first hulls that cracked- and then were warranteed and replaced by the factory.
Note if people put wings on H-18s to make Magnums WITHOUT the D reinforcements you are making a grave mistake.

pknapp66 wrote: Do you know how much lighter the mid "80s
hulls are than the earlier ones? Biggest complaint I have about my '81 is that it is heavy.

No, I didn't want to give (guess) an actual number since I can't claim to have weighed a bunch of each. I do know that my 1992 (with SX wings) feels a lot lighter than my 1981 (with magnum wings). It's a combination of hull weight, stiffness, and age related water weight.

So I only know the difference is "A Lot" as measured by my lower back.

Please enlighten me about the d shaped reinforcements. I suspect that my magnum might be one of the converted ones. Can they be seen without taking things apart? Are they a Hobie part? As for weight,
I don't believe mine has much water weight. It is just heavy compared to my P16.

pknapp66 wrote: Please enlighten me about the d shaped reinforcements. I suspect that my magnum might be one of the converted ones. Can they be seen without taking things apart? Are they a Hobie part?

Yes, the D-shaped bracket mentioned is a stainless plate that replaces the little channel shaped plates under/inside the outside deck lip where the shrouds and beam bolts attach.

It bolts through the hull with four bolts, so the stress is transferred to the hull side instead of the deck lip. Hobie Part, see the H18 part diagram here.
http://2010.archive.hobiecat.com/support/pdfs/PARTS_18.pdf

Yeah Damon why wasnt this in the tech gallery? Lol! I would have not had this happen to me http://surfsidesailing.wordpress.com/2011/06/17/my-h18-hull-failed-today/ I thought its was 86-88 so I bought an 84 but i learned fast about the issue.

fa1321 wrote: Yeah Damon why wasnt this in the tech gallery? Lol! I would have not had this happen to me http://surfsidesailing.wordpress.com/2011/06/17/my-h18-hull-failed-today/ I thought its was 86-88 so I bought an 84 but i learned fast about the issue.

Ouch, that's sad to see. I'm developing quite a library of "1984 Hobie 18's with their bow broke off" pictures. 🙁

It is interesting that almost all of the failures I've seen have been with 1984 boats. This could be simply because they sold more boats in 84 than 85-86 or maybe there was a really crappy fiberglass worker at Hobie in 1984. Hey, maybe he was a disgruntled employee, I can just see it...

"I'll get you Hobie Cat! I'm laying up this fiberglass so it only lasts 20-30 years! That will show you." 😛

damonAdmin wrote: Hey, maybe he was a disgruntled employee, I can just see it...

"I'll get you Hobie Cat! I'm laying up this fiberglass so it only lasts 20-30 years! That will show you." 😛

LMAO!!!!! Damon that is next level funny brother!!!

So I need these for both front and rear cross bars? Ouch! Thats over $300 in parts. Anyone got some used ones? Did these come standard after a certain year?

It bolts through the hull with four bolts, so the stress is transferred to the hull side instead of the deck lip. Hobie Part, see the H18 part diagram here.
http://2010.archive.hobiecat.com/support/pdfs/PARTS_18.pdf

Edited by pknapp66 on Jun 21, 2011 - 05:10 PM.

pknapp66 wrote: So I need these for both front and rear cross bars? Ouch! Thats over $300 in parts. Anyone got some used ones? Did these come standard after a certain year?

No, the new boats used these for the shroud position and the front beam, but not for the aft beam.

Check for Hobie part 64130001 - RAIL REINFORCEMENT KIT, I think this has four of the plates and required bolts for about $60, that's enough for one position (front beam), so you need two kits to do front beam and shrouds.

Here's another hull failure from this years Spring Fever Regatta in Hartwell Ga. Think this was an 85 or 86

That is more reasonable. What is the recommendation for the rear beam. Install an access port to install the
kit, or just install the front kits?

Is it just the white 18's that are failing? I have a yellow '86 and I dont want the front to fall off.

presto99 wrote: Is it just the white 18's that are failing? I have a yellow '86 and I dont want the front to fall off.

Color shouldn't have anything to do with it. The color is just a tint added to the gelcoat, so has nothing to do with the strength of the build.

damonAdmin wrote: [quote=presto99]Is it just the white 18's that are failing? I have a yellow '86 and I dont want the front to fall off.

Color shouldn't have anything to do with it. The color is just a tint added to the gelcoat, so has nothing to do with the strength of the build.

all the pictures show white ones. 😎 just having some fun.

Sorry I can't help myself.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcU4t6zRAKg

Edited by Rider_55 on Jun 23, 2011 - 09:11 AM.

Forgot I was going to add to the thread collection of broken H18's with this one. Oh my gosh it's another white one, I think you may be on to something.

~~ I have a '87' 18 Mag. It won't break cause I painted it yellow.. 😉 I think my cat gained weight this year, I farted a few times gettin the BEAST on the rack...... We all know the older Hobies are built well & tuff. The Nacras and other cats like it are "lightweight" and faster (from what I've read)... I haven't seen any other cats in a long time.. (ya, I know I gotta get outta the house more)..... I was wondering how the newer Hobies::: FX-ONE, WILDCAT, TIGER, etc etc... compare to the Nacra's or the other lightweight cats ????? (speed, strength,durabilty).. ya know what I mean !!!!

presto99 wrote: [quote=damonAdmin][quote=presto99]Is it just the white 18's that are failing? I have a yellow '86 and I dont want the front to fall off.

Color shouldn't have anything to do with it. The color is just a tint added to the gelcoat, so has nothing to do with the strength of the build.

all the pictures show white ones. 😎 just having some fun.

Oops, I guess the "beachcats of color" can fail too, just found this.

Ouch! That one had the reinforcement plates as well. Perhaps no internal patching though. Do you happen to know the story on that one?

Still not yellow though..... Maybe Hobie just built more white hulls. Gonna do reinforcements on mine soon.