Hawaiian Righting System

There should be either a stainless steel ring or a plastic ring around the blue line and a piece of shockcord tied to the ring and run through the block that is tied at the rear of the tramp and forward to the dolphin striker bar. This will return the blue line to its original position after you right the boat and let go of the blue line.

The block at the end of the shockcord will work like the ring that I described. The 2 short pieces of line will tie to each end of the blue line and then tied to the rudder pintel on each side.

Thanks, I think I am starting to see, here is a pic from a catsy install

So rather than using a ring on the main rope I'd just tie the shock cord to the ring of the block on there already. So I need to buy another block to tie to the rear tramp bar and then a shock cord that I would tie to the dolphin striker. I think.

Thanks HULLFLYER, I kind of was lost on "The 2 short pieces of line will tie to each end of the blue line and then tied to the rudder pintel on each side."

Has anyone ever used one like this on a Prindle? If so how easy is it to reach while tipped. I don't think I could reach around to the top of the upper hull to grab it while standing on the bottom one.

If not does anyone use any thing other than a single rope tied through the grommet on tramp either around the front beam or to the Dolphin Striker

Yes I have used it on Prindles. Everthing goes underneath the tramp. The blue line will be shorter, tie it to the front crossbar on each side just inboard of the hulls, no need to go around like it will on a Hobie. I used an eye strap instead of tieing to the grommet in the tramp. I riveted the bullet block to the rear cross bar, this gave me just a little more length in the righting line. This system will work very well on a Prindle. Just remember when righting when you are standing on the hull try and get inline with the mast when pulling on the line, too far forward or back and you will not get the full effect of your efforts. Also you have to lean all the way back almost touching the water. I watch some new sailors try and right a boat when they are almost standing straight up. Make sure that the crew and you both leaning way back and you will be surprised how fast the boat will come up.

Ok I follow the indside the hulls under the tramp bit but Not sure about all your connection points. I get the bulletblock on the rear to return the line but am not sure about the other connection points. If you are tieing off at the front beam on each side, How do you do this with the tramp on do you add a grommet to go through to go around the beam? Are we still making the big M shape or only under the tramp and if that is the case do we need to tie off at the back of the boat somewhere. I know I'm probably making this more difficult. I am a visual person I need a Prindle diagram or pictures I guess. I'm sure that I could probably figure it out once I get out to my boat and wrap by brain around it but I'm having trouble following it here.

I am not familiar with the P18, but with my H18 I use the setup shown in the picture at the top. The righting line runs on the outside of my hulls and then down around the front cross bar and under the tramp. My connection points at the transom are actually small ropes through a hole drilled in the deck lip instead of to a rudder component. From under the boat you can put slack in the righting line by pulling on the shock cord, I can then get the righting line off the upper hull. It does help that I am tall.

The Prindle set up will look like a "V" not an "M". The righting line will tie around the front crossbar on each side, just inside of each hull. There is a gap between the trampoline and the hull which will allow you to do this. A good bowline will work fine. That will be the only places that the righting line will be tied. The running of the shockcord will be like the diagram.

So this one then, that makes more sense.

edited by: Quarath, Oct 07, 2009 - 09:45 AM

That is the one

I have a Prindle 18 that I'd like to install this righting system on. What diameter line and bungee cord do you guys reccommend?
Thanks,
Steve

I used 3/8 for both. Works fine.
cheap bungee

I riveted the pulley you see in my pic above to the cross beam.

ob2s-thanks..luckily I alreay have some 3/8" New England Staset lying around and I ordered the bungee from your link. Now to find a pulley.

3/8 shock cord seems little much for this to me. I'm sure it will work but the same stuff you use for your Trap line returns would be fine I think. All it has to do is return the line to it's place when your done.

Quarath wrote: 3/8 shock cord seems little much for this to me. I'm sure it will work but the same stuff you use for your Trap line returns would be fine I think. All it has to do is return the line to it's place when your done.

Yes, but sheet becomes wet and over time the smaller shock cord allows the sheet to slack, yes you can tighten it, but I find the larger keeps it tighter.

Quarath wrote: So this one then, that makes more sense.
edited by: Quarath, Oct 07, 2009 - 09:45 AM

Finally got around to making me one like this out of Spare parts I had around. It seems to work like it is supposed to have not tried in the wet yet 😉