Is there a trick to threading a new shock cord into the outhaul car on the H18? I am trying to avoid drilling the rivets to remove the car just to thread the shock cord. The track is so narrow I can't get my little needle nose pliers into position. Tried pushing a wire thru then pulling cord back.
Other end of shock cord it's in and secure. That one was easy.
Did you already pull out the old? If not
Tape the old and new together at one end.
Then pull the old out and in goes the new.
Otherwise break out the drill.
Edited by nacra55 on Apr 22, 2014 - 12:19 PM.
Ron Beliech
Nacra F-18
Brandon, MS
I've always had to take rear casting off. Pete
prindle pete
You have to take the end cap off. The rollers might need replacing also. I have had to rebuild mine a few times over the last 20 some years. You going to come and race with us in SC. May 10th?
ADDICTION
1989 HOBIE 18SE
HOBIE ALTER SIGNATURE MODEL
wire coat hanger taped to your new bungee... feed it through...lube and twist/rotate if you need...
but drilling isn't as bad as you think... get a new titanium 3/16 bit.. matter of seconds you're done
re-rivet with alu 3/16 rivet.. there's no load on that endcap that requires stainless rivets. 50 alu 3/16 rivet pack is like $5... stainless rivets are almost $1 each.
while you're at it on the boom put metal jam cleats on for outhaul and rotator if you can.... probably will need new internal casting things however... murrays.com plastic wears and your line will slip.
Edited by robpatt on Apr 22, 2014 - 02:29 PM.
H14T, H18SX... Ocean Springs, MS www.osyc.com
+1 on removing the end cap. Its easy. Reinstall with aluminum rivets - they're easy to pull and don't require a heavy duty rivet gun. If you're going to sail Hobies, you should get familiar with replacing rivets.
+1 on upgrading to aluminum cleats. The stock plastic cleats will slip.
sm
Steve M.