I can't find those exact ones but here is one that is very close
https://mirka-online.com/tools-equipment/hand-sanding.html
they also make 5"
MN3
Bwahaha, that's for rolling the good stuff!!!
Edited by martyr on Apr 27, 2018 - 09:41 PM.
Yep, we use 3M and Mirka sandpaper st work.
I googled "3M hand sanding" and found the palm sander. It's called "Hookit". I added a screen shot picture to the sub album in the Beachcats Technical album.
Edited by martyr on Apr 28, 2018 - 05:01 AM.
I googled "3M hand sanding" and found the palm sander. It's called "Hookit".
this one has a hole "Proprietary center water feed system allows water to flush sanding residue"
(I like it)
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Hookit-Center-Water-Feed-Disc-Hand-Pad/?N=5002385+3293083517&rt=rud
MN3
Yep, that's the one. I didnt think to show the hole in the pics of the one I have, but it does have the hole in the top as well. Thanks for adding the pics MN3.
Edited by martyr on Apr 28, 2018 - 10:11 AM.
I just went to a gel coat seminar by a large working marina (Torrensen Marina) that serves mainly sailboats. They perform all types of fiberglass work, paint and repairs on boats up to and over 70'. They have rebuilt & repaired production yachts as well as hi-tech racing boats. The service manager said that if he could get a guy that could get the gel coat color right on the first try he would hire him immediately. They do have a system that is hard to explain, but he said most mistakes are made by not cleaning and getting the immediate area clean and brought up to a nice shine but no wax. Because when you go to sand the new into the old you will get to that shine and the color match will be off.
He also said that you should mix up 3 x more than you need for the color match, (no hardener). Keep the extra in a refrigerator. One guy gets it as close as he can and then at least two others look at it from no closer than than 3' away. Natural light only, no fluorescence lighting. Adjust color until all three say its OK. If you have a quarter size ding, he tapers up to 8" and uses plenty of Duratec for thinner, never acetone. Spray & sand. His final coats are more thinner than gel coat so they can blend the gel coat in.
If you want a perfect patch you will need to spray the whole boat as there is no such thing as "perfect", only very close.
DVL wrote: I just went to a gel coat seminar by a large working marina (Torrensen Marina) that serves mainly sailboats.
Wow, you got decades worth of expertise in that seminar.
Jealous.
Where is this marina?
he said most mistakes are made by not cleaning and getting the immediate area clean and brought up to a nice shine but no wax. Because when you go to sand the new into the old you will get to that shine and the color match will be off.
I replaced both bow tangs last year and spent lots of time trying to get the exact amount of pigment to match my boat. working in small and numerous batches it was a giant PITA to repeat the exact amount of gel/mekp/pigment/and wax since i am in a garage, not a controlled lab/shop (and not an expert by any means)
it never really matched all that well but since it was only the top... and not "lined up" with the freeboard) it's really not noticeable unless someone with a good eye examines it. and i don't care enough to care about their opinion
i am currently doing a bottom job on my spare catamaran and have added a fair amount of non tinted gel coat
while fairing: i have sanded through a couple spots on the tape line: only to find the white gelcoat I am using is an almost exact match for my boats original gelcoat (1994 model, never re-gelcoated as far as i know)
So it ends up: all that tinting i did was color-matching to old dirty gelcoat
i gonna leave the brilliant white new gelcoat and the old dirty gel coat the way it is - and call them racing stripes
MN3
martyr wrote: Yep, that's the one. I didnt think to show the hole in the pics of the one I have, but it does have the hole in the top as well. Thanks for adding the pics MN3.Edited by martyr on Apr 28, 2018 - 10:11 AM.
i think it's brilliant to be able to run water through it
do you do that on primer?
MN3
We simply dip the sanding end in a water tray and the center sponge soaks up water and also holds any sanding residue. We use this sander on freshly primered bodies of multiple colors. The water trays are like small sinks mounted on the wall of the booth at each station and have two chambers, water is in one and a flat brush is in the bottom of the other for cleaning the residue from your sandpaper. The process is dip, scrub the sander across the brush, squeeze out the excess water, sand in a circular motion keeping the palm sander flat.
ropewalker wrote: I need to repair a spot where a small padeye pulled out of the hull (#6 screws) and I want to fill the hole, then redrill.
Use this and let it cure in the sun. Use a mirror if you need to.
http://solarez.com/products/solarez-extreme-3-5-oz-tube/
It will be stronger than the fiberglass.
klozhald wrote: [quote=ropewalker]I need to repair a spot where a small padeye pulled out of the hull (#6 screws) and I want to fill the hole, then redrill.
Use this and let it cure in the sun. Use a mirror if you need to.
http://solarez.com/products/solarez-extreme-3-5-oz-tube/
It will be stronger than the fiberglass.
Why did it pull out?
where on the boat is it?
If it is under real load , it may need some backing plate added to the repair
MN3