Furler Cleat Placment

I just checked my P16. The center of my cleat is 16" from the center of the mast ball on the left side. I drilled
holes in the top of the crossbar and tapped them for the mounting screws. I advise you silicone under the
cleat and around the bolt holes to keep water out of the cross bar. Works perfect and a clean install.

Is the cleat pretty much top center of the beam and eye in front of it on the down sloping front edge of the beam or is the eye more on top and the cleat on the rear slope of the beam?

My cleat has no eye and it is centered on top of the beam. Just move the cleat fore and aft until it sits
as flat as possible. Since the surface isn't totally flat, you can't tighten the heck out of the bolts or the cleat
will bind.

Do you tie the end off on something on the tramp then so you don't lose it. I would think the eye would be important in keeping the line in the right place for the cleat.

What kind of screws did you use?

I need to buy one of those eye straps that attaches with the same screws that hold the cleat on. Yes I just tie the end to anything on the tramp and tuck the spare into one of the pockets. I think my cleat came with
stainless bolts and nuts. Just used the bolts. Just get stainless screws that fit through the cleat mounting holes. Tractor supply has quite a bit of stainless hardware.

I could take a picture tomorrow if you think that would help.

You need an eye strap to keep furler line feeding properly into the cleat. High angles on my boat make an eye strap essential.

Thanks Nacra, as part of my spring build up I'm going to install all the parts I bought last year! I was thinking of a cleat like the ones on the mast that cleat the downhaul. Do you run the line from that cleat directly to the drum? Does it get in the way of dealing with the jib? As you unfurl the jib, you wind the line onto the drum, correct? I'm thinking that while sailing, you only have a few feet left over, could it not just dangle?
Do you have a photo of how your drum attaches? I think I have it all figured, but who knows, someone may have come up with a better idea than what I put together.
I leave my mast up, & think it is easier to use a Portuguese turnbuckle, rather than undoing a shroud to release tension at the end of the day. Someone here showed me "what they do", it looked pretty simple.

PS lets put up fake ads for our 5.0 & 5.7s, only to be shown in Manitoba. Once Wolfman gets over the flooding, he'll have an orgasm & order BOTH. Then we'll tell him the ad was wrong, the price is actually 10K, because he's getting the best! It's a really cruel thing to do, but it's cool, pissing rain, & my boat isn't together yet, so if I have to suffer so should somebody else. Sorry, but I'm immature.

Darn you EC, you are cruel and unusual!! 🙂 Did I mention I'm working on the flood? Our firm has been providing assistance and I've been working day and night for the last 2 weeks (hence all my posts, gotta get your mind off of it once in a while or you go nuts). It's kind of like the Superbowl for hydraulic engineers, unfortunately the human costs is so high. We just released some fo the water through a controlled dyke breach to relieve some of the pressure so I'm chillin for a few hours.

You really want a cam cleat instead of the jam cleats you have on your mast. Those will give you fits because they like to self cleat at bad times. Check out my setup here: http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=74481 Just a straight run from the front beam to the drum. It runs instide and under the jib sheets and I have never had them interfere.

Gotta find me a Portuguese guy to show me that... but they always just offer me wine and octopus. 🙂

I just let my furler line flop around on the tramp, but I put a ball on the end so I can find it when needed and yest I only have about 2 ft of extra line when un furled.

Oh it's 12" from the mast and you DO NOT want to place it right on top like mine. Better that it is just forward of the top of the beam, makes it easier to cleat, uncleat and let out.

I see, thanks. I think Nacramans eye strap would help. I think Philip runs his straight out to the hull, then down the hull to the beam. I was thinking the jib blocks would catch on that furler line every time you tacked.
Funny, the electronic censor cut out he word o.rgasm in my post, & d.ike in yours (as in earthen d.ike).
How do you store your boat, just pull it up on your beach?
My neighbor has a Hobie 17, hasn't sailed it in years, won't sell it, but keeps it beside the water all summer. HE has a nifty way to store it, I'll hike down the shore when it quits raining & send you a photo. I may be able to get more of the material he uses.

Edited by Edchris177 on May 15, 2011 - 08:39 AM.

Ed, have to leave shortly so I am going to try and get a pic up while you're still online. The picture of my roller furling setup is one I use on both the 5.0 and 5.7. The plate the bridal wires and furler attach to I made from 5/32 stainless plate. It is a sanitary way to also mount a TeloCat wind indicator between the bridal wires. I use a 3/32 cable for raising the jib with a shackle on one end and a swagged eye on the other. Notice on the v-cleat there is a 2' line for tightening the jib. I use a 1/8 line tied thru the eye which is pulled thru the zippered luff. This line is then untied and stored in the tramp bag. The 2' line is fed thru the eye, pulled down into the v-cleat wrapped a couple times and tied off to secure it. As you know the NACRAS like a tight rig. Shrouds are adjusted for the proper rake for neutral helm. Then while stepping the mast the forestay is pinned as far down the chainplate as possible. You do not want the line supporting the jib to replace the forestay as the wire in the jib of the Hobie 16's do. During the season while it is calm, I will raise the sail and sheet in tight. Then raise the jib and tension it just enough to take out the wrinkles, mark that spot on the line for reference when I have to raise the jib in a breeze. It may eem a bit complicated at first, but is actually simple to use. Hope it helps. Also Wolfman, Many prayers are with the people suffering along the Mississippi...

I will send some better pictures of my setup when I get out to the cottage. Sounds like Nacraman's jib downhaul is the same as mine, I just use sister clips to unclip the halyard and clip the shorter downhaul line.

I appreciate the thoughts and prayers, certainly the people on the Mississippi need them also! I'm on a different river in a different country (Assiniboine in Canada). Almost exactly the same problem though.

It is a sanitary way to also mount a TeloCat wind indicator

Thanks much. When I drove through Carpenteria last fall I picked up a Telo Cat, & was wondering about the best way to attach it. I've seen some drums with shackles, & whatnot to get the bridals attached to the bottom of the drum. You way seem pretty simple. Thanks for the photos.
Now place an ad in the Winnipeg Free Press & we'll yank Daves chain!

Dave, I sent you a PM

Edited by Edchris177 on May 15, 2011 - 07:23 PM.

nacraman57 wrote: You need an eye strap to keep furler line feeding properly into the cleat. High angles on my boat make an eye strap essential.

This more or less what I was picturing but I am not thinking the eye that fits on top of the cam cleat might be best. Unfortunately the one I bought does not match up with holes on the cam cleat so if I do that I'm going back to west marine I guess.

Any advice on attaching. I have a couple #8 stainless self tapping screws or do I need to install threaded rivets?

Quarath wrote:
Any advice on attaching. I have a couple #8 stainless self tapping screws or do I need to install threaded rivets?

That cleat shouldn't be under much strain, either screws (isolate stainless from aluminum) or aluminum rivets should be plenty strong.

I didn't think rivets would work here, am I wrong? If so they would have to be really long rivets.

Quarath wrote: I didn't think rivets would work here, am I wrong? If so they would have to be really long rivets.

I must have miss-read something. We are talking about attaching the cam cleat to the top of the beam? Why would rivets need to be extra long? The beam doesn't have much wall thickness.

Because the cam cleat is about 3/4" thick so you need the fastener to insert from the top of it into the beam. Yes self tapping stainless screws are fine (drill a pilot hole though). There isn't enough stress on that cleat to need a backing plate, it won't pull out.

damonAdmin wrote:
I must have miss-read something. We are talking about attaching the cam cleat to the top of the beam? Why would rivets need to be extra long? The beam doesn't have much wall thickness.

Ok, never mind, looks like I had a temporary brain cloud. I was picturing attaching the fairlead with rivets, not the cam cleat itself.

An integrated camcleat fairlead like Harken number 475 would simplify things.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=13519&catalogId=10001

how do you insulate Stainless from Aluminum if you are using a self tapping screw. :-O

Quarath wrote: how do you insulate Stainless from Aluminum if you are using a self tapping screw. :-O

I would run the screw in, then remove it and apply some Loctite Blue 242 to the threads and reinsert.
http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-01-24200-Loctite-6-ml-Threadlocker/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1305751304&sr=8-1
Couldn't hurt.

Putting a stainless screw into aluminum is an instant corrosion point.