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Design for Mast hol...
 
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Design for Mast holder for trailering a P16

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Harrysheets
(@Harrysheets)
Posts: 12
Lubber
Topic starter
 

Anyone have a good design for the rear mast (on rear cross brace) holder for trailering? Prindle 16. Boat goes in the water this week end.

Thanks, Harry

 
Posted : June 30, 2009 3:30 pm
(@skarr1)
Posts: 414
Mate
 

I have a 6" piece of PVC. It's about 8" long. Cut a slot in one end for the mast to rest in. On the other end, shape it to set on the cross beam.

edited by: skarr1, Jul 01, 2009 - 05:20 PM

 
Posted : June 30, 2009 3:45 pm
Paul D. Strollo
(@PAUL624)
Posts: 95
Mate
 

got a pic< would love to see it

Paul D. Strollo

 
Posted : June 30, 2009 5:03 pm
Robert Braid
(@turbohobo)
Posts: 613
Chief
 

I made the same, cut a "V" slot in top, cut out a strip the entire length of the PVC, fits over traveler track, mast drops into "V"

Turbo

On-The-Edge-Of-No-Control

 
Posted : June 30, 2009 5:53 pm
MN3
 MN3
(@MN3)
Posts: 7090
One Star Admiral
 

on my H18 i used a milk crate and bungees

a life jacket makes a good rest as well.

MN3

 
Posted : July 1, 2009 3:13 am
kinlawk
(@kinlawk)
Posts: 54
Lubber
 

I used a vertical pole with a receiver style connection to the trailer. I also used a quick release pin to make connecting and disconnecting quicker.

I like this style because the mast is not resting on the boat. I live on a 1 mile long dirt road with lots of pot holes and with a mast cradle that rest on the boat it was hard to stop it from sliding side to side on the travel car rail due to the trapoline style not allowing me to secure the mast around the rear cross member.

Another reason i like this style is because the added insurance that the boat will not slide off the back of the trailer due to braking or acceleration because the vertical mast support acts as a stop for the boat. I usually tow the boat more than 50 miles to get to the water and this makes me feel alot more comfortable about doing so.

edited by: kinlawk, Jul 01, 2009 - 09:29 AM

 
Posted : July 1, 2009 3:24 am
Michael Canfield
(@H16-71388)
Posts: 46
Lubber
 

I use one of those foam noodles. Not the 3" diameter one, I found a 6" diameter one at Wal-Mart. I cut off a one foot section, and rest my mast on that. Plus, when it gets worn or lost, I still have three more feet to use. All for $2.99.

Regards,

MC
H16-71388

 
Posted : July 1, 2009 4:04 am
(@skarr1)
Posts: 414
Mate
 


Instuctions

http://www.thebeachcats.com/index.php?module=pictures&g2_itemId=63131

And Andrew will tell you not to use bungee cords like the ones in the photos.

edited by: skarr1, Jul 01, 2009 - 04:25 PM

 
Posted : July 1, 2009 11:21 am
Gerald Wilson
(@gcw)
Posts: 19
Lubber
 

Hey kinlawk can you email me at gcwilson777 at gmail dot com i need to ask you a couple questions thanks.

It needs a coat of paint but this is what mine came with

prindle 16
&
hobie 16 in jacksonville nc

 
Posted : July 1, 2009 11:55 am
Jim
 Jim
(@Spray_in_the_face)
Posts: 99
Mate
 

Skarr/steve, that's a nice looking mast cradle. It doesn't get more durable than PVC.

Thanks for posting the picture.

Jim Z, P16, H14

 
Posted : July 2, 2009 1:25 am
(@curlydastooge)
Posts: 22
Lubber
 

Dang me!... After searching for something to buy and not finding anything I liked, I just went out to my garage and made a mast cradle for trailering that fits on the back crossbar of my Prindle 16... Looks a lot like the plywood one in the pics above. Total cost = 50 cents worth of electricity to run the sabre saw and drill. Everything else was scrap wood and spare drywall screws... Tomorrow I'll paint it using old spray paint... What fun!

 
Posted : August 10, 2013 3:37 pm
CatsailorMike
(@CatsailorMike)
Posts: 97
Mate
 

if you want to get fancy, here's what is used with my h16. overkill probably but never any problems.

http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=88398

 
Posted : August 11, 2013 12:32 am
marcs2
(@marcs2)
Posts: 101
Mate
 

i used a 4 in. 45degree pvc pipe joint. cut out a square piece on either side of the bottom to fit over traveler track. than set the mast on the top and pencil and cut out semicircles on the top to fit the angle of the mast. i use it on my solcat 18 and my nacra 18 square and it works great. tie it down to the crossbar and the mast when traveling.

 
Posted : August 11, 2013 11:27 pm
Jerome Vaughan
(@rattlenhum)
Posts: 438
Mate
 

H16-71388 wrote: I use one of those foam noodles. Not the 3" diameter one, I found a 6" diameter one at Wal-Mart. I cut off a one foot section, and rest my mast on that. Plus, when it gets worn or lost, I still have three more feet to use. All for $2.99.

That's using your noodle!

I did the same, but used two pieces.....one on the mast and one on the rear beam...which cross each other. Trim each a little to fit the contour somewhat....works great and is cheap and easy.

Edited by rattlenhum on Aug 12, 2013 - 12:26 PM.

Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi

 
Posted : August 12, 2013 6:25 am
(@spags)
Posts: 57
Lubber
 

Hey Jerome... Can u send me a pic of your mast cradle?... The noodle design. Thanks

 
Posted : January 5, 2018 11:18 am
(@gahamby)
Posts: 575
Chief
 

I used a vertical pole with a receiver style connection to the trailer.

Same here.I use a 5'-0" stick of Uni-strut (available in the electrical aisle at HD) in a receiver made out of 2" box tubing. It has a bow roller on top with cradles. I put a foam bumper on the receiver to avoid damaging the hulls.
When I push the mast aft and pin it to the step the masthead is about 8 feet of the ground. That's a good starting height for raising.
http://www.unistrut.us/

 
Posted : January 6, 2018 12:04 pm