After sailing a hard windy slog from Vancouver to Victoria the port hull had took on a significant amount of water. i pressure tested the hull and found a good size leak where the deck connects to the hull. Maybe about 7in long. What's the best way to fix, preferably without removing the entire deck? I was thinking about just slapping some 5200 on it.
5200
this is almost never the best choice for a repair. - what happens if you need to remove the deck lid at some time in the future?
MN3
Check out this chart tumbolo:
My weapon of choice for a repair of the type you describe would be the 3M 4200 FC (FC = Fast Cure). As the chart shows, it can be used above or below the waterline and is removable.
Thanks for the advise lee, Its seeming like the 4200 or sikaflex 291 may be the way to go.
this is almost never the best choice for a repair. - what happens if you need to remove the deck lid at some time in the future?
Your right, the 5200 may be a little overkill in this application, but I have found many great uses for the stuff. And as I am young and stupid I do rethink things after the fact and sometimes need to remove the stuff. I have used 'Marine Formula by DeBond' and have had some amazing results. I generally slice the bead with a razor blade to move things along a bit.
... as I think about it maybe I am a little 5200 happy
Van to Vic, that's quite a slog.
Curious as to how you get through the Gulf Islands? I'm thinking timing is everything, the tides in Active Pass are faster than most sailboats.
E C Hilliard
Nacra 5.7
Bombardier Invitation
Curious as to how you get through the Gulf Islands?
Going from Vic to Van the tides were all wrong and it was night time so I opted to go around the bottom of Saturna and then sail up the straight and across Roberts bank to Point Grey.
Coming back to Vic I timed the tide right and got to Porlier pass at slack tide. Then I sailed south to Vic. Its amazing how the wind can turn off in the gulf islands. 20 kts from the north crossing the straight of georgia to 5 kts on the island side of Porlier
I always try to avoid going through active pass because of all the ferry traffic.
Edited by tumbolo on May 12, 2015 - 12:04 AM.
What material is used by manufacturer to join deck to hull? On laser they use 5200. I've repaired Laser hulls with the same. I've used a screw driver and twisted the halfs apart enough to get the goo in there. Then clamp to dry for water tight seam. Who wants to remove the deck from hull sometime in the future after sealing? Not I. Once sealed I go sailing. Boat is sold sealed with no leaks and there's little motivation for new owner to remove the deck.
Who wants to remove the deck from hull sometime in the future after sealing?
no one wants to but sometimes it is needed
i.e failing stringers or bukheads that are internal, or a failed bridal tang, or damage from impact, etc
MN3
I would use West Systems Six-10. It is epoxy rather than silicone (which is what the 3M products are), so it is a structural adhesive rather than just a sealant. It comes with a self-mixing nozzle which would allow you to just inject the epoxy into the gap. I used this adhesive to re-bond about a 2-3 foot long section of a Hobie 14 deck back to the hull (the joint had just been filled with silicone) and the end result was a very solid, water-tight joint.
sm
Steve M.
I've done both epoxy and 5200 to Laser deck hulls. The epoxy cracked as it didn't flex. There must be a reason the manufacture uses a flexible sealant when manufacturing small boats.