Any one have one of these? Is it easy to connect to the Trax? The Trax for the Wave has to be carried to the boat and if it doesn't come apart easy its not worth getting one. I can't find any close up pictures of the connection. Thanks.
Hi John,.. it's bolted on.
I've used one under a couple different 18 footers and find the arm very heavy and awkward to use. It needs to be lashed to one of the beams to use it. On some boats, this limits your ability find a good balance, or to slide the wheels around as you often need to do.
The arm fills with rocks and muck and becomes a great weapon if your crew pushes the boat toward you at the wrong time. The T-handle grip should be lashed to the arm or you will lose it.
That, plus all the storage and transport issues convinced me to go with normal trax w/ cradles on my current boat.
They are a breeze.
Edited by nohuhu on Jun 28, 2017 - 08:08 PM.
The cradles for our larger cat are great. Maybe I should invest in another set. If I could roll it on, then lock or jam the roller hose, it might be much more managable.
I use the Cat Trax handle to singlehandedly put the wheels under a Nacra 20 and move it around the beach. I find them to be lifesavers and for handling the boat solo. No issues whatsoever and very sturdy. I would not use them if I had a lighter boat or always had crew to sail.
Edited by traphappy on Jun 29, 2017 - 10:56 AM.
I use the Cat Trax handle to singlehandedly put the wheels under a Nacra 20 and move it around the beach.
do you think the handle makes it easier? if so why?
I handle my 5.5 solo without a handle - no problem
my 6.0 can be a bit much
MN3
MN3, I life the bows up with one hand and slide the wheels under with the handle. That's why it helps. I suppose I could elevate and rest the bows on something and slide the wheels under the boat without using the handle though.
MN3, I life the bows up with one hand and slide the wheels under with the handle. That's why it helps.
gotcha - i do the same (sans handle) but it does require a few trips to each side of my cat (which is a hassle since i have spins and front mesh cargo nets up there
MN3
Hi Trappy,.. I've found the handle does allow you to solo turn the boat a bit tighter on land. If there's stuff up front, (tramps, socks, anchor lines, camera poles) it's much harder to use the wheels though.
Oddly enough, we now tie the trax handle to the stern of an 18-2 and it works a little better there while hauling the boat. This is with 2 guys. Which means we still load the wheels on (pointing backward) from the bows, grabbing the bridles and pushing with our feet. Easy enough when everything is floating.
Soloing without a bar, I just run the righting line out between the bows and this give me all the leverage needed to pull the boat up onto the wheels/cradles as I brace them. I need to hold the boat with that line anyway, as I get the wheels on/off a mooring ball.
Edited by nohuhu on Jun 29, 2017 - 01:42 PM.
we now tie the trax handle to the stern of an 18-2
attached (tie) to what on the stern?
(edit) oh the handle .. i thought you meant the tie down ropes in the wheel's axle
Edited by MN3 on Jun 29, 2017 - 05:40 PM.
MN3
Hi MN#3...Yes, the trick to using the handle effectively is securing the lever arm to the center of the boat, somewhere.
On one hand, you want to have enough "tongue" weight on it to keep the boat from rocking back, but not so much that it becomes a slog to lift and drag for longer distances. It can be tricky on some boats, to find that spot every time.
We secured a stainless biner to the rear beam and clip that onto a tight rope loop attached to the arm. That aligns things and saves time. Securing ropes from the axels to the side stays becomes optional.
We launch downhill, into the wind so having the arm behind the boat gives better braking, and when we back it out of the water, pulling leverage improves. Weird, but it works. I still prefer a simple set of catrax though.
gotcha - thanks for the info
MN3
Anytime. I'll be picking your brain soon.
And I'll be getting a much better deal! π