Trailering Question

I have P16 - take the rudder system off when you tow. The rudders bounce like crazy otherwise. It is easy to take em of and put em back on -easier than rethreading and retying the lines. Just my 2cents

this is how i trailor...2 - 3/8" lines tied up rudders TIGHT off of springs and go for it. have logged over 70 trips @ 140 miles round trip each...even made a few 3 hour one way trips with absolutely no problems. takes about 1 minute to untie and about 5 minutes to tie.

Edited by coastrat on Aug 24, 2011 - 01:48 PM.

When I sail I have to drive three and a half hours pulling my boat. I like to always think I am prepared so I keep two spare tires on the trailer at all times. I replace the tires on the trailer every two years by putting my new spares on the boat and using the old ones as spares. It is also a very good idea to carry a full hub setup.....meaning all you have to do is slid it on the axle and then bolt on tire. You do not want to be running to walmart after you have a flat or bearing go out. I also carry a hydraulic jack....even tho my truck has a jack that can be used. Once again this provides me with a hot standby if one does not work. Don't forget the lug wrench.......It is also important to make sure your fender covers the wheel......when my cat is on the trailer, it is very close to the tire, so if it blows.......I could end up with the rubber beating my boat to death before I have a chance to pull over. I plan install spacers on cradles to lift it up higher.

You do not have to cover the boat when trailering. Never put your boat on a trailer that has rollers....always use cradles. Leave the rudders off so they do not bounce around and damage the rudders or boat.

I also like to make sure my mast is even with the back of the boat so when I stop.....some DA will not run into me. This may be over kill, but I also like to mount my lights on the back cross beam. This way the DA's in back of me can clearly see my tail lights when I apply breaks.

Ed... LOVE your signature pic... but doesn't look anything like you ... In fact, you must have taken that pic from the back of my boat! 🙂

These things are GREAT for use in pulling the rudder pins to just take off the whole rudder assembly... in about 10 seconds...

http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MS&Product_Code=25-220&Category_Code=

Hope to see you around the coast again!
-Rob

Edited by robpatt on Sep 02, 2011 - 08:53 AM.

On my P18, I used to use the pinched rope method as shown by coastrat, recently though I decided to remove my rudders by pulling the pivot pin, 1st though you need to remove the rudder lines and undo the knots, had to use a screwdriver and pliers to coax them loose from being tied for many years. But once undone they can be retied and undone much easier, now all I do is push the line so knot pops out through the little port, undo both knots, remove rudder pivot pin, throw rudder in sailbox, tie lines together using slip knot, takes less than 5 min to remove/install rudders using this method, lock nut and bolt take an 11 mm metric socket.

The H20 tiller disconnect is great, well worth the cost and minimal install time. I put them on my H18 when I was still trailering it around. Makes removing the rudders so easy.

I just pull off the crossbar and then drop the two rudder pins out the bottom. Your rudder pins should not be getting bent from one sail to the next if you trailer all the time. If they are getting bent enough to be hard to remove, there is likely something wrong with your rudder adjustment/setup. I do have the stainless pins.