Rigging Quickly

Here are the pictures, very cool by the way. They are actually in a separate album in the tech section.

I'm pretty sure someone will want to know, so what would you want to make a pair of these?

Cool, how thick are they? Just standard 2x(1.75)

In reply (yurdle), I find ring-dings too slow and difficult to get on and off. The only task I have for a helper is to hold the safety/belay line tied to the mainsheet halyard when stepping the mast. Except for the forestay, the remainder of my stays and trap wires remain connected all the time.

You can cut them from a 2X6 or 2X8. You can loosen the rudder pivot bolt and slide a thin piece of carboard in the casting and trace for a pattern. Cut and sand for a good fit.

Quarath wrote: Cool, how thick are they? Just standard 2x(1.75)

You might find that disconnecting a trap line (from the return shock cord) and using that to hold the mast up, instead of a halyard, more secure.

RSabast wrote: In reply (yurdle), I find ring-dings too slow and difficult to get on and off. The only task I have for a helper is to hold the safety/belay line tied to the mainsheet halyard when stepping the mast. Except for the forestay, the remainder of my stays and trap wires remain connected all the time.

Are they a mirror pair?

Probably the biggest time-saver is towing the boat stern-first. This allows the side shrouds and trap lines to be permanently connected. Just slide the mast toward the tow vehicle and pin the ball in place, and your assistant with the belay line is not encumbered by the tow vehicle either. This way, there's only one connection left- the forestay. I use a weighted line off the bow to pull that forestay forward as the mast goes up - it's waiting for me when I get there to be connected.

For a while now, I have taken notes on things that could be improved while rigging and de-rigging, with an eye to where I could eliminate ring dings, needing three hands to hold the parts and tighten the shackle, retrieving pieces out of the small parts box, or tying knots.

Tip o' the hat credit goes to havlii for the stern-first idea. An out-of-the-box thinker, he's taught me 'most all I know.

Edited by RSabast on Aug 01, 2012 - 11:15 PM.

I like stern first as well. I can leave the spin fully rigged and just slide it in the sail tube below the boat.

RSabast wrote: Probably the biggest time-saver is towing the boat stern-first. This allows the side shrouds and trap lines to be permanently connected. Just slide the mast toward the tow vehicle and pin the ball in place

I must be missing something here, I tow with bows forward and I leave everything connected other then the forestay. In fact, if my sterns were forward the tow vehicle would be in the way when the mast was slid into position before raising...

if my sterns were forward the tow vehicle would be in the way when the mast was slid into position before raising...

you leave the mast in the trailer yoke as you slide it back into position and attach it to the mast ball. Once pinned, it is now sitting at an angle and you can simply walk to your rear beam, get in position and lift.

i back my car/trailer until my trailer starts to go down the beach tide line. This slants my trailer 10-15 more degrees and makes lifting (stepping) even easier.

the only (minor) issue with that is... once my mast is up. i will possibly end up with wet feet as i secure my mast forestay... i can handle that.

MN3 wrote:

if my sterns were forward the tow vehicle would be in the way when the mast was slid into position before raising...

you leave the mast in the trailer yoke as you slide it back into position and attach it to the mast ball. Once pinned, it is now sitting at an angle and you can simply walk to your rear beam, get in position and lift.

Duh... that makes a lot of sense now.

I feel the most time consuming job for me is raising the jib. I've thought about keeping the jib furled on the forestay but then I would need to add a snorkel or lines to keep it from unfurling when stowed. Probably would take about the same time..

Most of the time the jib shouldn't more than about 5 minutes. Make sure both lines of your halyard are going through the ring with the side with the hook towards the rear and the hook facing the rear. If it is setup right with a little practice setting the hook in the ring should be easy and usually happens the first time.

Are you using the standard setup with 2 halves of the halyard connected with sister clips or something different?

If you don't have a pull on the zipper it can help to have a short bit of batten tie on the zipper to make it easier to raise and zip at the same time. make sure the tail of the halyard that you are pulling is also inside the zipped section.

If your having trouble with particular part let us know what.

I'm not having any trouble raising the jib per say, I just think there is some opportunity for improvement.

I do not have sister clips just a long single line; I coil the entire line and zip it into the luff. I was thinking about adding sister clips or using two lines; a permanent tensioner line and a halyard that attaches with a snap shackle of some sort.

I also have wings that I attach to the stainless tabs with bolts… it takes a minute or two longer but I love how rigid they feel.

My Hobie 18 had a 2-part jib halyard sister-clipped together. It made for a neater tramp, but it seemed as I was hunting for it if left it ashore, or could lose it if left it on board. I've gone back to a solid line and just coil it in the tramp halyard pocket.

You coil the jib line in the tramp pocket? Is it just running straight from the jib tack to the tramp kinda like the furling line?

Also, I cant wait to swing my boat around on the trailer... I was looking it over last night and I think this will save a ton of time with stepping the mast. Have any pictures of yours on the trailer this way?

Have any pictures of yours on the trailer this way?

see the supercat 19 behind my cat

my old boat and old car

Notice i am down the surf line to increase the angle (not enought).. every degree makes it a little easier to lift

You coil the jib line in the tramp pocket? Is it just running straight from the jib tack to the tramp kinda like the furling line?

on my H18, i used to coil up the jib after sailing and leave it attached (you can see it sitting on the tramp in the above picture). I would tie it to the tramp under the hiking straps with the jib sheet. When i got home i would put the jib (sometimes) in a bag to get it out of the sun... not the best for the sail but saved about 10 min of jib rigging on my H18. This is not possible with my current furler (Portuguese turnbuckle system) and i wouldn't do it with my current sails anyway (cause i care about performance now.. back then i didn't really know what i was doing so it didn't matter all that much)

Edited by MN3 on Aug 03, 2012 - 09:19 AM.

Also, I cant wait to swing my boat around on the trailer... I was looking it over last night and I think this will save a ton of time with stepping the mast. Have any pictures of yours on the trailer this way?

Keep in mind where the end of your mast sits when trailiering. If you part on the rear beam then reversing your boat on the trailer will have some technical difficulties. If you have a rear mast mounted to the trailer then your golden.

Quarath wrote: Keep in mind where the end of your mast sits when trailiering. If you part on the rear beam then reversing your boat on the trailer will have some technical difficulties. If you have a rear mast mounted to the trailer then your golden.

I have the mast secured using a mast caddy on the rear beam... I was gonna canabalize the caddy to make a removable support that attaches to the end of the trailer.