vinnyvincent wrote: My custom made trailer's wheels are only about 4-5ft apart. It has two pieces of steel U-bolted across, with rollers bolted onto the ends that to support the boat(you can get these at any boating or outdoors store)
Well, the hulls are over a foot wide of the wheels on each side. Given that they are about 7' apart, the wheelbase is probalby something like 48", which should be suitable... I suppose you are right Vince. How far apart are your hull supports fore-to-aft? (behold the awesomeness of my maritime vocabulary!) I have maybe 4' between mine, and it feels a bit short. However, to fix this I would have to mount two rails lengthwise because the trailer frame is not much bigger than 4'x4'. The diagram here http://www.thebeachcats.com/news/34/trailer-and-sail-tube-construction/ suggests 7', which feels more in line with 16' hulls.
Your's are too close together, but it seems like it would work the way they are temporarily if you wanted to take the boat out on the water to test it out. Just strap it down good and keep it under 55. Once you shift the boat back a little, so the weight is centered over the axle, I really don't think it will be much of an issue.
Hook the trailer up once you shift the boat back and do some test runs close to the house and see how you feel about it. With the insurance really the worst that could happen is everything gets destroyed and they cut a check for more than what you paid for it.
You just want to make sure nothing crazy is going to happen like the trailer coming unhooked from the truck, or the boat flying off the trailer and cartwheeling down the freeway, because you run the risk of hurting someone else if that happens. Honestly if you keep your speed down none of this should ever happen regardless. The guy I purchased my boat from was using twine to strap it down!
Best case scenario and most likely is you're going to get out there this season, get some time on the boat and have a blast, then be able to determine what really needs to be done to everything to make it all more ideal.
To answer your question, I've never measured mine, but 7' seems about right. when I put the boat onto my trailer, the rear cross bars line up with the rear support and the front crossbar ends up just behind the front support. Basically just measure your cross bars front to back and add on about ten inches and you'll be in the ballpark. Just because this is the "right" spacing doesn't mean what you currently have won't work for you short term.
mgoltsman wrote:
How far apart are your hull supports fore-to-aft? (behold the awesomeness of my maritime vocabulary!) I have maybe 4' between mine, and it feels a bit short. However, to fix this I would have to mount two rails lengthwise because the trailer frame is not much bigger than 4'x4'. The diagram here http://www.thebeachcats.com/news/34/trailer-and-sail-tube-construction/ suggests 7', which feels more in line with 16' hulls.
To use your awesomeness of maritime vocabulary, the trailer hull supports fore-to-aft, should be the same distance as your main beam is from your rear beam, ie the length of your tramp fore-to-aft. The hulls have bulkheads under the beams so it is the sturdiest part of the hull.
Down south on hot days, a tight strap across the hull will cut into gel coat and leave an indention so we strap fore-to-aft across the beams.
Ron Beliech
Nacra F-18
Brandon, MS
Ron,
Thanks for the suggestion of using straps fore-to-aft, seems a lot more appropriate. After all, the boat is a lot more likely to slip back (or forward) in transit than jump the roller and move sideways. That. of course, is in addition to the preservation of the hulls from undue pressure.
Cheers,
Mike.
The pictures in the home made trailer article were broken because the article was from 2002, still good info. The designer/builder Jack Hoying was able to find them and get them to me.
Updated article
http://thebeachcats.com/forums/viewtopic/topic/14692
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Damon Linkous
I've added an album for trailer designs if anyone want to share pics of how their trailer is setup.
http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=105885
I had a Hobie 16 trailer in the back yard so I added some pictures of it. The basic design is a lot like Jacks build.
http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=105887
measurements are
Overal length 20 feet
Main rails are 48 inches apart
cross arms that support the boat are 8 feet long and 7 feet apart.
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Damon Linkous
Thanks Damon, very helpful photos! I think I will be OK if I can find an axle tube about 5' long.
mgoltsman wrote: Thanks Damon, very helpful photos! I think I will be OK if I can find an axle tube about 5' long.
You don't want the tires or fenders under the hulls. If you have a blowout, the tire can do damage to both the fender and the hull. If you have a blowout on one side, replace both. Don't ask me how I know.
Ron Beliech
Nacra F-18
Brandon, MS
Measured the trailer width - 40" between frame rails side to side and 48" between the center lines of the wheels. Probably 8-12" too narrow, but marginally acceptable I think - especially after I drop the boat down by 4" after I replace the 2x6 lumber supports with 1x2 steel. Just have to be mindful on turns...
Edited by mgoltsman on Sep 28, 2013 - 07:18 AM.
A note of caution, in Damon's pics above, on the left hand pic showing the entire trailer, the cross-beams are under-slung, this usually causes the cat to sit so low on the trailer that the rudders will hit the ground,especially if you have 8" wheels, mount the cross beams on top of the frame. Also, look closely at the brackets holding the rollers, notice those sharp corners? Just waiting to eat your hulls if you make a mistake loading and un-loading, they need to be rounded off, don't ask me how I know..... π
Edited by the-renovator on Sep 28, 2013 - 07:14 AM.
the-renovator wrote: A note of caution, in Damon's pics above, on the left hand pic showing the entire trailer, the cross-beams are under-slung, this usually causes the cat to sit so low on the trailer that the rudders will hit the ground,especially if you have 8" wheels, mount the cross beams on top of the frame.
Since mgoltsman (is that your real name?) hasn't seen a lot of catamaran trailers I should have mentioned that this one was a little unusual because of the under-slung crossbars and the fact that it is welded together. I was using it to illustrate the overall geometry. Most of the galvanized trailers I see have the crossbars attached with U-Bolts. Having the crossarms on top also provides a level support for trailer boxes or tubes. This one needed the stack of 2x4's at the front to get front support for a box.
The hull support rollers are definitely homemade from off the shelve pieces, I agree with the-renovator but think it's more of a hazard to your shins when working around the trailer (don't ask me how I know π )
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Damon Linkous
There is a twin P16 in front of my place in Turkey Point, on Lake Erie. I agree not having quick release pins on any rigging. Yes for having them on boom to main, boom to gooseneck, jib sheets.
I have a page on tuning if you search Turkey Point Catamarans. http://www.nornet.on.ca/~doverw/tuning.htm
Faster Rigging: I would stay away from quick release pins for any standing rigging. I think the worst thing I can imagine is a dismasting out on the water. I believe quick releases are hollow. So, do not do anything that would increase chances. Just my thoughts. I leave my sidestays and trapeze lines connected to the boat, always. I just coil them onto the tramp and fasten them with velcro to the hiking straps. Forestay has to be released for obvious reasons. I just ordered clevis pins (too cheap for push buttons), for boom, the clew of of the mainsail and main blocks. I keep my rudders on the boat for travel. I made some blocks for them. Actually, go here...I documented a bunch of stuff I dealt with on the boat; http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=103882
Soft spots: Go through every inch and push with your hands. You will be able tell what they mean by soft spots. Most likely to be found on decks. Again, tons of info in the technical photo section on how to deal with this. The method is pure genius. I wish I knew it twenty years ago when I bought my first beater boat. Pretty much everything can be repaired, and the folks on this forum are some of the best at it from what I have seen.
Tuning: Yup, do a search (see the trend yet?). I would not go nuts about it. Read up on it so you will at least understand what is going on when you go out on your first sail.
Diamonds: If you have just tight enough that the first 12 inches can be squeezed to touch mast is just fine. Once you know what you are doing you can fine tune it. Then, call me and explain it to me so I can do it to my boat π
Stays: I run them as tight as I can set it. I will have someone pull on the trap wire so I can adjust the sidestays. You will be amazed how much the mast will bend and put slack to the leeward side.
Traveller: For now, just set it and forget it. If you get into some big broad reach runs it is nice because you can "sheet out" with the traveller and not the main, thus eliminating a huge uncontrollable belly in the sail. I believe it is meant to work much like a vang would on some other boats.
Pete
Thanks Pete, you did a great job on the photo documentary, answered some of my questions.
I am a little unsure of the Main Sheet rigging.
I am not new to sailing, however new to small cats.
Kernunnos, Your post reminded me to add some photos to the album. I put a few more up there that may interest you. Pete
I posted a few pix of my Trailer & "Spring Rain" as well, they are turned 90 Deg, I don't know how to fix them.
I got the pic of the mainsheet rigging, mine has two blocks at the boom....
Will add a pic when the time gets here
I posted some pix of the trailer I got with my Pridle 16 the rollers are 8 feet apart, the cross beams 7
Edited by kernunnos on May 07, 2014 - 05:25 PM.
Rigging Prindle 16 : we always use "speedy connectors" any kind of snap shackle eg to attach blocks to boom to traveler, to lines to raise and lower sail jib,same for main sheet , Also use for blocks for jib and to attach to tramp carry xtra line in tramp pocket and use clips for xtra life vest(attach a whistle) and tool kit (always carry spare parts a few shackle etc)and righting bucket use of speedy connectors saves 5 to ten minute in rigging time
kernunnos correct about side stays, they usually stetch as season progresses so tape them with electric tape 4 or 5 winds around the shackle or pins so they never can come loose, move them down when wires stretch and retape, enjoy your Prindle Even with less sail area u should take any hobie 16, I have both cats and believe Prindle is the superior craft
My "quick release" block to boom. 
Edited by peterk123 on May 08, 2014 - 05:09 AM.
Ok, I have been looking at the pictures...Question.... do I release the Mast mount hinge when I get all the rigging done?
kernunnos wrote: Ok, I have been looking at the pictures...Question.... do I release the Mast mount hinge when I get all the rigging done?
Yup. You can keep it on the mast base though.
Fashion a fitting to adapt a shop vac outlet.
I would NOT use a shop vac. The pressure a shop vac is capable of can do a lot of damage- like stretching a small soft spot into a large section of delamination.
The bubble technique is tried and true, just use a second person to blow into the hull's drain hole. A person's breath is more than enough pressure to form bubbles at the leak.
Right, full shop-vac pressure could probably pop the hull even if it did not have a problem before the test. I was planning on aiming a shop-vac exhaust at the vicinity of an open drain plug - that should limit the pressure, no? I am worried that a human exhaling till he blacks out can't add enough volume to a 200l+ hull that would generate enough differential with the atmosphere to inflate a soap bubble...
mgoltsman wrote: my nightmare is discovering that the boat is listing because one of the hulls is half-full of water and filling. Can you even rescue a boat in that circumstance?
You have missed a fundamental design point on beachcats, especially Prindles. The hulls are constructed in a foam/fiberglass sandwich construction with positive flotation. You can have one hull full of water and the cat will still sail. (There is a video here somewhere of a Hobie doing exactly this) Many have left shore with a hull plug missing and still sailed back to shore, once discovered.
IF the both hulls fill, the cat may turn turtle, but it will not sink. So cross sinking off your OMG at Sea list unless you fill both hulls, have a very leaky mast and keep a #40 Danforth anchor secured to the underside of your tramp. A fat relative will actually help you float, so you might lash the tubby aunt/uncle where you had the Danforth, as a precaution. π
Edited by klozhald on May 08, 2014 - 12:13 PM.
Hey, I am pretty tubby myself so hurray for buoyancy! Thanks for the assurance, it really helps with my OMG list:-D
Laffin my ass off!!!