Is there more or less fabrication work, whether you use stainless or synthetic 😉 ? Still nice, that you are keeping this boat on the water. Is it totally original with wire main traveler or with traveler track?
I think his point is that you can buy the standing rigging complete, off-the-shelf with no fabrication, but only installation. Synthetic requires fabrication if not readily available off-the-shelf. Merits of one over the other after install notwithstanding. Heck, in the end we SHOULD all at least be proficient with braiding lines, however with demands of time, that isn't going to happen.
revintage wrote: Is there more or less fabrication work, whether you use stainless or synthetic 😉 ? Still nice, that you are keeping this boat on the water. Is it totally original with wire main traveler or with traveler track?
Like Chuck said, this will make it just an installation job. I am not sure if it has a wire traveler or a track. When I got the boat I knew nothing about cats. It's been buried in the hangar for a year.
When I got the boat I knew nothing about cats. It's been buried in the hangar for a year.
you have had a crash course!
MN3
waiex191 wrote: I am not sure if it has a wire traveler or a track.
If you have the wire traveler, I would really appreciate some images when setup. I am into a project where this system would work. Have searched the web and have saved a few images, but none of them tells it all. If it has a wire traveler you will find a wire from end to end of the rear beam and no track, like in this image:
Have you visited this brasilian SC17 FB-group: https://www.facebook.com/supercat17
Edited by revintage on Jan 29, 2022 - 09:50 AM.
revintage wrote:
If you have the wire traveler, I would really appreciate some images when setup.
How is this? The line was being used to secure the boat for its trip from Florida, but I put it on the way I think it goes.
revintage wrote: Have you visited this brasilian SC17 FB-group: https://www.facebook.com/supercat17
Nope, I'm not on facebook.
waiex191 wrote:
How is this? The line was being used to secure the boat for its trip from Florida, but I put it on the way I think it goes.
Nope, I'm not on facebook.
That´s the one! You put it absolutely right. Do you mind measuring the slack, ie measure from beam to wire in the center where the traveler trim is? Keep it and try it out, even if lots of users modify their boats.
I will try a slightly modified version on my Trimaran2023-project (Tornado center hull with Nacra 5.5 akas).
Don´t mind the force calculations, must double check. Will use it with 9:1 for the F18 main.
To bad you are not on FB, as you miss the good sailing/multihull groups. No need to use it for social media, just go for the groups and block everything else 😉 .
Good to see that in other contries the Supercat is still sailing. I am from Brazil and here we produced it up to 90's. I have a very conseverd one... and I sail against the HC16.... almost of them I win.
This traveller is a very good system / price. if you need more details, ask me and we can make a video call to explain to you how it works.
Also, I am searching a top square main sail, do you know some one who has a good one to sell?
my e-mail rtobioclaro@gmail.com
whatsapp +55 71 999689437
Good to see that in other contries the Supercat 17 is still sailing. I am from Brazil and here we produced it up to 90's. I have a very conseverd one... and I sail against the HC16.... almost of them I win.
This traveller is a very good system / price. if you need more details, ask me and we can make a video call to explain to you how it works.
Also, I am searching a top square main sail, do you know some one who has a good one to sell?
my e-mail rtobioclaro@gmail.com
whatsapp +55 71 999689437
Good to see that in other contries the Supercat 17 is still sailing. I am from Brazil and here we produced it up to 90's. I have a very conseverd one... and I sail against the HC16.... almost of them I win.
This traveller is a very good system / price. if you need more details, ask me and we can make a video call to explain to you how it works.
Also, I am searching a top square main sail, do you know some one who has a good one to sell?
[email][/email]rtobioclaro@gmail.com
whatsapp +55 71 999689437
We stepped the mast for the first time today. My new bridles were not quite right. I think it's possible I didn't explain my rig well enough to Tom Haberman at Aquarius. I've got an inquiry into him. Still, it was cool.
Yeah, that's raked way back and I see the shroud extenders are hanging.
Is that a gin pole or spin sprit?
SC19 wrote: Yeah, that's raked way back and I see the shroud extenders are hanging.
Is that a gin pole or spin sprit?
No gin pole, so I'm not sure. I've learned the H16 but I have very little knowledge of the Supercat.
Do the shroud extenders make these things unnecessary?
Not sure I understand the question, so forgive me if butting in here I get this wrong. You need the chain plate quick disconnects to pop open the connection, allowing the shrouds to lengthen, thereby allowing the boat to be righted much easier. Mine has a Hyfield lever setup I installed, copying Aquarius' later designs. I think a bunch of cats might use them, don't know which. Theoretically, when you pull the pin, the shroud lengthens allowing the high hull to rotate to or past vertical allowing your weight to finish the job. As a side benefit, with the levers,no can very easily change the tension on my rig and/or adjust the rake.
Is that a gin pole or spin sprit?
Neither
a gin pole typically isn't a fixed spar
a bow sprit would need to extend past the bows
I have a friend who has the same gear on his cat - has a front tramp too
I believe it is just to make the bows and forestay more rigid but not 100% certain that is it's only purpose
MN3
That spar(s) is to allow for a larger jib to be fixed at a lower point. You can see the compression post inline with the forestay. My buddy had one on his modified P19. Its an easy way to add a lot of sail up front, but also blocks your view.
Rob
"If at first you do not suceed, well, so much for sky diving"
Sorry - looking closer, it looks like your picture does show levers under the blue tape. I'd keep the setup that way and see if you can't remove a little rake somehow.
"You need the chain plate quick disconnects to pop open the connection, allowing the shrouds to lengthen, thereby allowing the boat to be righted much easier.".....but your missing the wire and spring that slips when using the Hyfield lever...........to right your boat..... 😉
oh yeah... All you're going to get out of that is the extra length of the lever. You Need some pics...
It is possible that the previous owner was using those levers to tension the rig, although high rig tension should not be necessary.
the boat was designed for 5 degrees mast rake. If you make the bridle wires too short you will need a bar between the hulls up forward. The stock length bridles and a stock length forestay is probably your best bet. You could sell those levers and save some weight. hope this helps.
I've been talking with Tom Haberman. The guy who used to own this was friends/neighbors with Bill Roberts. It appears there are ARC-17 mods done to it. So I think the stays are correct but the bridles and forestay/jib halyard are wrong. I've got to do some measurements for Tom. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
This boat has been owned by Sikorsky people since the '80s. Sikorsky and P&W were part of the same corporation and they shared facilities in West Palm Beach, Florida. Bill worked at P&W.