upgrading trailer

Which trailer do you have? Does the tongue extend the length of the trailer? Suspension wise, any change you make may hurt you unless you actually carry the weight. Your trailer is probably rated and capable of handling much more weight than the N20 as it is.

Has anyone done this, is this a job I can do in my driveway, where did you get the parts, etc. I'm looking to only increase my capacity by a few 100 pounds

i have removed the axle, replaced my leaf springs (and bearings) and put it all back together.
was done in a driveway in about an hour

All my parts were purchased from a local trailer shop ( http://www.rentztrailerhitches.com/)

Make sure your tire load rating correlates as well.

I've gotten parts in the past from http://www.etrailer.com and http://www.easternmarine.com

What is your trailer rated for now?

When I burned up a hub/spindle on my Magic Marine trailer I replaced the entire axle-spindle-hub assembly with one rated for 2500 lbs and included grease fittings on ends of the spindles so the hubs can be repacked without removing anything.

The entire thing was shipped already assembled and it just bolted on. It was custom made by Champion Trailers based on measurements I gave them.

The axles that come with trailers are generally rated for the minimum, I like having the extra margin since most of my road trips are 400 miles plus. Also, keep good tires!

http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=32097

75 lbs... under $35 in shipping ?
WOW

MN3 wrote: 75 lbs... under $35 in shipping ?
WOW

Actually the whole experience with Champion Trailers in Slidell Louisiana was a "WOW".

I called them with my measurements at 11:00am Monday and they built the axle/hubs assembly, gave it to UPS that evening and UPS dropped it on my doorstep around 11:00am on Tuesday.

WOW!

Looks like prices have gone up a little since 2007 but here's the one I bought, love the "Spindle Lube" setup.
http://www.shopchampiontrailers.com/2500-GALVANIZED-SPINDLE-LUBE-2X2-STRAIGHT-BOAT-TRAILER-AXLE-MOUNTS-UNDER-SPRINGS/productinfo/ABS25/

That rocks

I called them with my measurements at 11:00am Monday and they built the axle/hubs assembly, gave it to UPS that evening and UPS dropped it on my doorstep around 11:00am on Tuesday.

yea that is cool. I am in the market for a new axle with hubs for my jon boat trailer, that looks great.. after reading the description, i am now worried i blew out my grease seal by over pumping my cat trailer (as i pumped it up pretty full a few weeks ago when i noticed a squeak).. need to go check..

Looks like prices have gone up a little since 2007 but here's the one I bought, love the "Spindle Lube" setup.

nher wrote: I have a trailex trailer supporting our nacra 20.

Just for the record, you are already using 12" or bigger wheels, no?
If you are using 8" wheels, the first thing to do is upgade wheels and tires.
$0.02

Edited by klozhald on Feb 13, 2013 - 02:35 PM.

The lightest trailer axle I can find is a 2000 pounder so even if you have that you should be fine, Trailex trailers are very light so you probably have less than 200 pounds of trailer, and 500 pounds of boat and gear and another 100 of box, spare, personal gear etc so you should have plenty of capacity left. A pic would help.

I agree with tires likely being the weakest link. I run 13s on both my trailers and would not run anything less than a 12 if you go any distance. JMHO, YMMV, Richard.

thanks for all the responses. this forum is great for figuring stuff out.

i talked to a few "trailer guys" today, and they all gave me this opinion: yes i can upgrade the tires, axle, and leaf springs, but here's the problem: my boat and gear weigh no more then 700 pounds. if i upgrade everything on the trailer and its rated to carry 2500 pounds, when i put my 700 pounds on the trailer, it will be so UNDER WEIGHT that every bump on the road will NOT be absorbed by the leaf springs or tires, bur rather the boat. this will be the equivalent to when i trailer my trailer around with no boat, the trailer bounces all over the place because there is no weight on it. i certainly do not want my boat bouncing around like that.

so yes, it looks like upgrading is easy, but no, it may not be a good idea unless you can actually justify it.

Take your "updrade" cash and take a sailing lesson.

I highly recommend Robby Daniels of Red Gear Racing
https://www.facebook.com/robbie.daniel.18

so yes, it looks like upgrading is easy, but no, it may not be a good idea unless you can actually justify it.

IMO, most trailers that come with the boat, are suitable for that boat, the best upgrade you can do is:-
1) increase the size of your wheels, especially if they are 8" wheels,
2) install submersible LED lights and side markers
3) install bearing buddies to wheel hubs
4) make sure your rollers are spinning freely and that there are no sharp edges to gouge hulls, go with cradles if obtainable or use the rubber "V" type boat stops.

are you suggesting to use these instead of a cradle to hold your cat on the trailer?

4) make sure your rollers are spinning freely and that there are no sharp edges to gouge hulls, go with cradles if obtainable or use the rubber "V" type boat stops

I used that exact thing for years on my Hobie 16 and 18, it is not the same as the modern cradles we have today but they are way better than a single roller. The Nacra trailer I am sure has cradles already. HTH, RIcardo.

are you suggesting to use these instead of a cradle to hold your cat on the trailer?

Yup! On my old Prindle 18 trailer, rollers on the rear, double "V"s up front. But you can only use them on boats with asymmetrical hulls, (.....duuh!) the sharp "V" of the hulls fit snug into that rubber "cradle".

Another distinct advantage of the asymmetrical hull shape... :top:

One thing you need to watch for when getting new leaf springs and a new axle. The leaf springs usually have a big rivet right in the middle of the spring right where the axle attaches. You can either get your axle drilled to accept the rivet or you can use large washers as shims to make the leaf springs fit flat to the axle. I tried drilling mine but it was a lot tougher than I thought and was going to remove the galvanized finish. I ended up opting for the washer method although the drilling method would be more stable.
See if the company you purchase your axle from can provide either shims or machine the axle to accept the rivet if you have one.

I upgraded my hobie 16 trailer, I think the additional capacity will be sufficient

bacho wrote: I upgraded my hobie 16 trailer, I think the additional capacity will be sufficient

😆 Might even handle a double-stack.

I am looking at doing this possible this spring as well. I want to be able to double stack my P16 on my P18 and if I do that now my springs pretty much flatten out and my tires rub on the fenders. I was able to bring 2 P16s on it down from Idaho without any trouble but probably was at the limit of what it could handle.

How about a p19 and bandsaw?

How about a p19 and bandsaw?

Now THAT'S a bandsaw!

I just got some used car tires with 15" rims that i plan to squeeze on my g-cat 5.0 trailer. i will have to boost the fender height. I might do a "coil over" or mount the trailer cross beams under the trailer frame to reduce the ride height. I had to launch on a sandy ramp two days ago with the mini trailer tires and i was dragging my axle through the sand.

bacho wrote: How about a p19 and bandsaw?

That P 19 looks a little shy in the port bow department...
Is it a kit?

the-renovator wrote:
4) make sure your rollers are spinning freely and that there are no sharp edges to gouge hulls, go with cradles if obtainable or use the rubber "V" type boat stops.

What kind of hardware would you use to mount these on the standard 2" square crossbar? Is it something you have to fabricate or are there stock parts available?

I need this for a Hobie 14 trailer, currently using several pool noodles duck taped together. 😆

You can buy the brackets but would be pricey with S&H, easier to fabricate......

2 lengths of 2" x 1" channel steel from your local steel supplier, approximately 8" long. Drop rubber stop into channel steel, mount, leave a 2"- 4" space drop 2nd rubber stop in, mount. Attach to forward cross-arm, do same again on other side. Are you going with rollers on the rear cross-arms?

Edited by the-renovator on May 15, 2013 - 06:11 PM.

the-renovator wrote:

2 lengths of 2" x 1" channel steel from your local steel supplier, approximately 8" long. Drop rubber stop into channel steel, mount, leave a 2"- 4" space drop 2nd rubber stop in, mount. Attach to forward cross-arm, do same again on other side. Are you going with rollers on the rear cross-arms?

I must be dense, not following your instructions. That bow roller needs a pin or bolt through it, don't understand how your description or the pictured part works with it.

I apologize Damon, the pic above is a standard bracket for the rubber stop on a motor boat trailer, ignore it. So you want 2 lengths of channel steel approx 8" long, and you want 2"x1" channel steel, 2" base with 1" sides. Invert the channel steel so that the open end is up,

drop the rubber stop into channel, drill a hole all the way through sides of channel for a bolt with lock-nut or a pin to "mount" or secure stop in place. If I remember correctly, the base of the rubber stopper is 1" in height so when you drop it into the channel, the steel lip sits at the base of the "V". Space the 2 rubber stops on either end of the 8" length of channel steel so you have a gap in between for drilling holes to mount your bracket at right angles to the cross-arms.

Hope that helps..... 😀

R

the-renovator wrote: Space the 2 rubber stops on either end of the 8" length of channel steel so you have a gap in between for drilling holes to mount your bracket at right angles to the cross-arms.

So are you saying use two of the bow rollers for each side? Four total for one cross-arm?

I think I see what you are saying now. Thanks for the clarification.