NEW TO PRINDLE

Turbo, what about removing the entire casting, with the blade still attached, along with the cross tie bar?
Maybe this doesn't work with the Prindle?
Here is my 5.7, I removed the entire assembly as one piece when I bought it, for the trailer home. Both rudders & cross tie are a bit awkward for one, but with a 19' I assume you have a pal, that makes it easy.
Can you pull the mounting pin that goes through the gudgeons? I wouldn't want to pull the bolt through the blade unless I had to. That entails the lines & roller pin.

Ed, had already thought of that one, problem is, the Prindle rudder setup is so complicated it would take too long to re-install rudders solo.

Bill (nitrodub) mentioned something though, a cradle or sling that would loop over the mast, effectively capturing the rudders for trailering, will look into that, thanks nitro.

Use a small hitch pin to retain casting shaft pin and change to newer Hobie crossbar setup(same as Tornado). Take rudders off in 30 seconds.

i use nitrodubs method...i drive 70 miles each way to the coast with my p-16

here is how i secure the mast/tiller crossbar...

here is how i deal with the rigging/jib sheetnote forestay pinned to mast base

edited by: coastrat, Oct 10, 2010 - 03:24 PM

Thanks for the pics coastrat, appreciate the time spent posting those up on the website, I like that mast holder. 😎

the mast holder came with the boat, it's a sweet tool...the boat came with a set of cattrax too...thank you previous owners!

edited by: coastrat, Oct 10, 2010 - 06:57 PM

😀 , green with envy......

I simply remove the long rudders pins the connect them to the hulls like said above and remove the entire rudder setup as one piece. I loosen the the rope keeping the rudder up just bit so the rudders can fold parallel to each other tie a line around em and toss em in the catbox. I can remove or install them in less than 5 minutes even by myself. It really is not that hard. My wife has even beaten me to the last couple times doing by herself or with one of sons. It really is quite easy and not that time consuming at all one you have done it a couple times.

Quarath wrote: I simply remove the long rudders pins the connect them to the hulls like said above and remove the entire rudder setup as one piece. I loosen the the rope keeping the rudder up just bit so the rudders can fold parallel to each other tie a line around em and toss em in the catbox. I can remove or install them in less than 5 minutes even by myself. It really is not that hard. My wife has even beaten me to the last couple times doing by herself or with one of sons. It really is quite easy and not that time consuming at all one you have done it a couple times.

Same here. Just make sure the threaded portion of the cross bar is marked so the rudders aren't out of alignment. If they are it is pretty easy to tell as soon as they are hung, just a PITA to have to take it back off and fix it.

So when I went to order the new rudder sheaves, hit a problem, on my rudder setup there are 3 upper sheaves, 1 lower sheave on the lock release plate. Murrays did not know about this lower sheave, they say that according to their catalog, there is no sheave, only a plastic spacer. So the question is, is my lower sheave an upgrade, or is the plastic spacer an upgrade?

I like the sheave there, it has a small spacer on the side of the sheave, on the clevis pin, it acts as a rope guide as well as giving me 2:1 uphaul on the rudder.

What thinks thee my merry men?

So when I went to order the new rudder sheaves, hit a problem, on my rudder setup there are 3 upper sheaves, 1 lower sheave on the lock release plate. Murrays did not know about this lower sheave, they say that according to their catalog, there is no sheave, only a plastic spacer. So the question is, is my lower sheave an upgrade, or is the plastic spacer an upgrade? Which would be better?

I like the sheave there, it acts as a rope guide as well as giving me 2:1 uphaul on the rudder.

What thinks thee my merry men 😕

i tried to get a tight shot of my rudder...

Bill, you have 2 sheaves on your lock release plate, waddup wid dat 😕

I am new to the prindle world as well and just got done repairing and repainting my 18-2. I am starting assembly this weekend and have an internal 2-1 downhaul on the rudders (thanks stu) I have some old pics of how they came off and will have some new pics when i get them back together. The extra sheeves are available but eeven the maker can't seem to get the parts right! take what ya got and go shop hopping or take some pics on a ruler and that should help you find replacements if needed (some of mine were rotten)

I second the whole jig block relocation thing. If you want to free some space, you can remove the cross wire and attach the blocs directly to the traveler car (this is a factory configuration so no worries) the 4 way system is a nice upgrade but a pain for the crew to hurdle. Just another reason why its good to be the captain... keep in mind the jib works with the main so mess it up and you could easily disturb the air iver the main and cause all sorts of issues not to mention loss of power. i was tempted with the whole hoobie jib system but after reading the prindle book on the 4 way, i just have to try it especially since i am solo 90% of the time and have a life time of cat experience even if not prindle. Adding a furler was a great upgrade. i did the same but am still looking for a GOOD way to mount a wind vain on it so any ideas, please feel free to share and look for pics late this weekend from me

you can use sheaves as a spacer like coastrat "nice rudders by the way".upper & lower sheaves look to be the same,that is probably why murrays doesnt bother to list a lower sheave. maybe just order 5 sheaves per side or 4sheaves w/ a spacer per side.

Have 8 sheaves on order, Tom at Murrays ran out to take a look at a P18 they had on site, he said there was no lower sheave on that one, it had the new spacer which does away with the lower sheave, it's longer than the old spacer.

On a side note, wrestled with my mast today, trying to step the mast solo, because the mast is longer than my old H16, sidesway is a bee-yach. With the mast going up sideways, the diamond wires get in the way, gonna have to come up with a tri-pod to hold the mast up slightly to get it off the tiller crossbar. So it's been a whole new project building this solo mast step setup, might just have to turn the cat backwards on the trailer and use the mast holder to step the mast manually.

Will keep y'all posted 😀

its how the boat came rigged...i even had a spare rudder/casting/tiller set up rigged the same way. when i did my rudders last year, i used new nuts/bolts/washers/lock down bolts/lines and tuned the rudders by the book...they work flawlessly! this season i got my rig tension/mast rake tuned in and she is fast! here is another shot of the rudder...

I put my P18 in the water yesterday for the 1st time. Trailered cat up to the lake using the "pinched rope" method as suggested by nitrodub and coastrat, no problems, thanks guys. Spent a few hrs tweaking my solo mast step setup and it's working great, once you get past the weight, size, diamond wires, etc, it's a breeze. Built a tripod out of 1.5 inch PVC to hold mast, high enough to keep diamond wires off of tramp, and used forestay to pull mast up, there were no issues with mast being sideways. Dropped the mast only once but it came down slow enough for me to catch it, will have a bruise on my forearm for a few days. Will definitely work on a furling jib for this cat, the original takes waaay too long to setup.

Later guys 😎

Rider_55 wrote: [quote=Quarath]I simply remove the long rudders pins the connect them to the hulls like said above and remove the entire rudder setup as one piece. I loosen the the rope keeping the rudder up just bit so the rudders can fold parallel to each other tie a line around em and toss em in the catbox. I can remove or install them in less than 5 minutes even by myself. It really is not that hard. My wife has even beaten me to the last couple times doing by herself or with one of sons. It really is quite easy and not that time consuming at all one you have done it a couple times.

Same here. Just make sure the threaded portion of the cross bar is marked so the rudders aren't out of alignment. If they are it is pretty easy to tell as soon as they are hung, just a PITA to have to take it back off and fix it.

After having the threaded part come off on me once probably because I had it adjusted too far out without realizing it. I now wrap it thoroughly in electrical tape after it has been adjusted and leave it.

turbohobo wrote: I put my P18 in the water yesterday for the 1st time. Trailered cat up to the lake using the "pinched rope" method as suggested by nitrodub and coastrat, no problems, thanks guys. Spent a few hrs tweaking my solo mast step setup and it's working great, once you get past the weight, size, diamond wires, etc, it's a breeze. Built a tripod out of 1.5 inch PVC to hold mast, high enough to keep diamond wires off of tramp, and used forestay to pull mast up, there were no issues with mast being sideways. Dropped the mast only once but it came down slow enough for me to catch it, will have a bruise on my forearm for a few days. Will definitely work on a furling jib for this cat, the original takes waaay too long to setup.

Later guys 😎

Though I agree with furling jib, my regular jib goes up pretty quick so maybe walk us through your process and we can critique. I know I had issues and worries there at first to but now it's fast.

as a trailor sailor, i was wondering if there was an advantage to roller furling jib from a set up point of view. as it is now, i stand the mast up and my crew shackles the forestay then i tension the forestay to where i like it. i like this method better than moving a shroud pin down a hole or two. do you leave the jib on the forestay or do you have to rig it like you didn't have the furler when setting up?

The forestay runs up a sleeve in the leading edge (luff?) of the jib, then the jib is attached to the forestay by connecting the thimbles (upper/lower) on the forestay, to the grommets (upper/lower) on the sail luff, using shackles.

http://2010.archive.hobiecat.com/support/pdfs/PARTS_14-16.pdf (scroll down to H14 / H16 JIB SAIL & BATTENS)

So the forestay and the jib become one and the same, the jib rolled up around the forestay, when you have raised the mast and shackled your forestay to the bridle wires, your jib is ready, just pull on jib lines and the sail unfurls, pull the furler line and the jib sail rolls up around the forestay, Advantages are many, can depower in an instant by hauling on furling line, when beaching cat, furl jib, stops it from beating itself to death in strong winds, and looks very professional when coming in, jib is already furled, turn into wind as boat stops, drop mainsail, walk cat up beach, grab a cold one to the admiring gazes of any/all beach babes.

A 10 hole chainplate is attached to the top of the furling drum allowing you to adjust your mast rake to where you want it.

Edited by turbohobo on Oct 18, 2010 - 11:51 AM.

for trailoring, would you leave the jib/forestay on the mast and hank it down to something, or remove it(stored spun around the forestay) and shackle it on when you raise the mast? i think i'm asking how you store the jib...spun around the forestay or rolled up tradional(not on forestay)? set up and break down time is at a premium for us so i'm trying to determin if the upgrade will cost me too much extra time. right now we are from the road to rigged and loaded in under 30 minutes...we tend to leave the beach after dark and we HATE to leave!

I hear you coastrat, in my case, I dont have the space to leave my mast on my cat, I have brackets on my privacy fence to hold my mast. After sailing, I take everything off the mast tang, roll up my trap wires as well as my jib/forestay and attach the shrouds to the trailer knowing that when I get home I'm going to lift the mast off the trailer and hang it in the back yard. In most cases, trailer sailors can leave their mast on the trailer, and can therefore leave everything attached to the mast tang including the jib/forestay. In that case a jib sock is recommended to protect the jib from the elements, some guys with roller furling jibs who leave their cats mast up will use their mast halyard to raise the sock up over the jib for protection. In those cases the sock is usually a zippered canvas sock, works similar to the Prindle jib, you hold onto the zipper as you pull on the halyard, closing the canvas around the jib sail. I leave my sail furled around the forestay when I pack it away, it does not take long to rig all shrouds, forestay and trap wires onto the mast tang prior to raising mast, but if you can leave your mast on your cat, it will save you a few min.

Hey no smilies!!

sounds like it could be a good thing...got some other repairs/upgrades for this winter, if i get those handled i'll look into roller furl...i mainly like it for beaching on windy days. yesterday we saw a bimar uni screaming across the bay, it seemed unuseually fast, esp when he poped his chute! fast boat.

check it out guys, just started an album under beachcat members, restoring my 1983 P18

http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=77413&g2_GALLERYSID=0795a33bfaf7e73b609d88033512dca5

:dance:

Nice pictures.
How much did you get that P18 for?

turbohobo wrote: check it out guys, just started an album under beachcat members, restoring my 1983 P18

http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=77413&g2_GALLERYSID=0795a33bfaf7e73b609d88033512dca5

:dance:

Edited by TylerH on Oct 21, 2010 - 09:57 PM.

😉 i love mildew on hulls! if people just washed it off they could get another 500$ for there boat! thats a new tramp and a new set of standing rigging!