NEW TO PRINDLE

Caution, moving your jib blocks to the beam might drastically change your sheeting angle. From photos that I have seen the Prindle 18 jib clew extends behind the mast. You might not be able to get enough tension on the foot of the sail.
Of course when you have the furling jib made you can have the foot shorter to fix this.

I am saying this from viewing photos and could be wrong.
I am sure some real Prindle 18 sailor will chime in.

2nd above, if the jib blocks are moved, even a few inches, your ability to trim the jib correctly for a full range of sailing angles will go out the window

you can move the blocks where you want but will then basically need a differently shaped jib. a sail-maker could probably cut your current jib down but this has it's own issues...

Aye. I've had a P18. You can't sheet the jib to the beam. The stock system is fine for jib sheeting. The barberhauler I had (which might be standard?) was horrible...that's what I'd upgrade.

You think the P18 jib is complex you should see the 4 way setup on my Nacra 5.5sl talk about losing tramp space! You should sail it once with the stock set up before making changes.

you will end up with the blocks on the farthest back setting for best speed anyhoo...the prindle jib is set up almost perfect outa the box.

There's absolutely no problem moving the jib blocks forward to the main beam. I've done it to two 18's and found no noticable difference side by side with normal P-18. You simple move bridle eyestraps 18" forward (with bar underneath gunwale) and attach longer bridle wires. Cleans up tramp nicely. Pete

If the factory thought that the jib block placement should be on the front crossbar, they would have put it there. The Prindle 18 is almost perfectly balanced as it comes from the factory. I doubt if I would move the bridal wires forward, I believe that the hull is beefed up a bit where the bridal tangs are attached to the hulls from the factory, also moving them forward will change the angle of the luff of the jib. I firmly believe that almost all producion catamarans have went through alot of R&D with true professionals and should remain rigged to the factory specs and setting to maintain the true balance and highest performance.

doesn't the p18 have a 4way jib adjuster system?

if yes... a compromise may be attach the jib blocks to the outer most position (on my boat this would by attaching the jib block onto the track) and remove the 4 way inhaul/outhaul feature.

So you will now have a h18 style adjuster where you can adjust it fore and aft but not in (tramp) and out.

then you can remove the horse (the cable or line that goes port to starboard) and the other lines... now you have a clear deck and you don't have to move your bridal wires, cut your jib, mount blocks on your beam.. etc

There is an aluminum plate under the standard bow tang, but the curved gunwale lip is sufficiently strong enough or 100,000 H-16's couldn't carry their bow tang in the front. The slight luff angle change makes little or no difference as proven by side by side sailing with std boat. The factory was not driven by "ease of use" in the late '70's. The boats that sell today are Hobie Wave, Getaway, or H-18's with wings. A clean tramp for rookie crews to move around on is a hugh plus for keeping new people interested particularly when you add barber haulers and the associated lines (that crews are always sitting on). Pete

Removed jib blocks off the tramp, have older style Hobie jib blocks on tracks which I will mount on front crossbar giving me a clean tramp.

I would suggest you not do this unless you want to go with a smaller jib. Back in the day we experimented with this and a buch of other stuff and in the end we went back to the original design. They put it there for a reason.

pbegle wrote: There is an aluminum plate under the standard bow tang, but the curved gunwale lip is sufficiently strong enough or 100,000 H-16's couldn't carry their bow tang in the front. The slight luff angle change makes little or no difference as proven by side by side sailing with std boat. The factory was not driven by "ease of use" in the late '70's. The boats that sell today are Hobie Wave, Getaway, or H-18's with wings. A clean tramp for rookie crews to move around on is a hugh plus for keeping new people interested particularly when you add barber haulers and the associated lines (that crews are always sitting on). Pete

I've heard you say this in the past and I am interested in the idea as well. One question the bridle tangs have one screw that goes into a bar under the lip and another that goes up higher into the deck. What does this other one connect to and when moving them forward what do you connect this second screw to? Do you know the new length needed for the new bridles?

Unless your racing and P18's don't have a huge racing class do they? Then I am more interested in a clean tramp for passengers/crew than I am in performance as any racing I do is purely recreational.

I do however have a hard time when one of my son's who is heavy like me is sailing with me as there is no where for him to sit and I need him as far to the beam as possible to keep the bows down. I am pretty much always single handing with passengers so I am setting the jib myself and they are almost always in the way of the blocks especially if I have more than 1. I love my boat but if I was to look for another I'd look for a clean tramp and wings or something to make it more passenger friendly.

Pete do you have pictures?

edited by: Quarath, Sep 24, 2010 - 02:52 PM

skarr1 wrote:

Is that a Prindle Bob on top? Never seen one of those before.

Quarath, that's simply a Hobie baby bob with a P on it. The other screw goes thru the deck into an aluminum plate. Just drill another hole in the bar stock, but put washer & nut on because of eventual corrision of stainless/aluminum. Raise mast & use line to connect to forestay to measure new bridle length cause I never wrote it down. P-18 jib is no bigger than H-16 jib so Hobie blocks will work fine (or you can cut them off & use better P-18 blocks) Pete

Quarath, Shoot me an email as I think I have all the parts you need to make the change. Rather than longer bridles, just adding Prindle chain plates to bridle will make them long enough. pbegle@charter.net

Hey Prindle guys, correct me if I'm wrong, but does the mast connect to the mast step link pin sideways? I was looking at my mast base and noticed what seems to be the link pin connector, but it's on the side. The reason I ask is because I'm building my own solo mast step setup similar to what I have on the Technical Gallery but that setup centered around using the forestay to raise the mast. If the Prindle mast is raised sideways, there is no way I could use the forestay to pull the mast up.

Need input, Johhny 5 'alive'

Yes, the mast hinge is on the side, causing the mast to be
turned 90 degrees till raised. I use my forestay to pull my
mast up even so. I guide, my wife cranks the hand winch on
the trailer, pulls the mast right up. Unpin, rotate, secure
and sail away.

ButchG
P19 w/Spi

ButchG wrote: Yes, the mast hinge is on the side, causing the mast to be
turned 90 degrees till raised. I use my forestay to pull my
mast up even so. I guide, my wife cranks the hand winch on
the trailer, pulls the mast right up. Unpin, rotate, secure
and sail away.

ButchG
P19 w/Spi

Why not just use your mainsheet to haul your mast up. I learned this trick from a guy that use to single hand his Prindle 19; here is what I showed me:

Unhook the the starboard crew trap-line and hook the mainsheet to the loop in the wire - using the upper blocks that attach to the boom.

Fasten the other side of the mainsheet to the hook on the trailer where you attache your hull tie down to. I one is nothere as in my case, make one with amsteel line and a few loops.

Raise the mast and when it is up, sheet in on the main sheet making the trap line act as a the securing line. From here I was able to let the mast go and and fasten the forestay to the brindal wires. Unhook rthe mainsheet rigging, take the pin out of the hing and reattache the trap line.

This will also work for taking the mast down, just make sure to revers the mainshhet blocks, that is the boom end attach to the trailer, and the traveler end to the starboard crew trap wire.

And give yoursel about a 30 to 45 degree angle for the trap line to the trailer.

There's absolutely no problem moving the jib blocks forward to the main beam. I've done it to two 18's and found no noticable difference side by side with normal P-18. You simple move bridle eyestraps 18" forward (with bar underneath gunwale) and attach longer bridle wires. Cleans up tramp nicely. Pete

--
prindle pete
--

Yes you can raise it with the forestay with the mast sidways. Like they said once you have it secured then unpin and rotate it forward. But I use a winch to raise mine.(No gin pole for now). I connect to one of the skippers trap lines thimble and tie the 2 crew trap lines out to the outside of the front beam to control sway. If you raise it with the trap line then like they said you have the mast secure and can attach the forestay without worry. Once it's attached you can return the trap lines to where they belong. Without a gin pole I usually have to walk the mast up to the rear beam while the wife cranks the winch and hand it off to my son on the tramp.

I will throw out this word of warning on stepping the mast. Always double check to make sure the step plate is in the right holes. I didn't check it one time and ripped the plate on the mast out. It was a fun repair. But most of all getting the mast down was a pain.

Thanks guys,am working on a solo mast step setup for my P18, will post pics in tech help gallery for future reference. If anyone is interested, Action Sailcraft & Marine out of Andover, KS are selling the Harken hi-load furler & swivel for $235. Dustin, I know you were looking for one depending on price.

Give them a call at 1-800-799-SAIL

Or buy it here for $205. ($221 is the lowest price Harken allows vendors to advertise, click on "ADD TO CART" & you will get it for $205)

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|77896|299748|750993&id=1015158

or here for $221
http://www.mauriprosailing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?

http://www.apsltd.com/c-1070-smallboatfurlingsystems.aspx

I think Andrew has the top swivel for $50, then just buy the drum for $137, total cost $187.

edited by: Edchris177, Oct 06, 2010 - 05:56 AM

That current Sale price on your first link now shows $189 in cart

Thanks EC, but... (see next response)

edited by: MN3, Oct 06, 2010 - 05:20 PM

I think Andrew has the top swivel for $50, then just buy the drum for $137, total cost $187.

Thanks EC, but i gave it away to the guy who lent me the tramp that that assswhole from SLO SAIL AND CANVAS wouldn't return.

I have been messing with the rudder setup on my P18, what a load of cr*p, this has got to be the worst rudder setup ever. I replaced all rudder sheaves, both upper and lower, replaced rudder lines, got everything working sweet, the only irritation is that each blade is swolen where the up-haul line attaches to the blade, will have to fill that with epoxy.

I stepped back to admire my handiwork only to realize how do I trailer this cat with these rudders. It would take way too long to remove and setup rudders each time I go sailing and you can't trailer this cat with the rudders on. I'm going to have to re-think this one, any suggestions? 😕

Turbo, I only own a Nacra 5.7, so I may be so full of it that my eyes should be brown, but...
Does the entire rudder assembly attach via a long pin+ 2 ring dings to hold the pins?
Is it possible to pull the pins & leave the entire rudder assembly intact?
If this is a retarded idea, sorry,my brain is addled & soaked with German beer,(it ids the Canadian Thanksgiving). I hooked my small (120 lb) wife to the wire & went out for the first time in 50 clicks, (30mph) today.
The good news is the wind was from the NW, short fetch, smooth seas.
The bad news is the wind was from the NW, gusty as he.l.l. over the hills, we never dumped, but what a wild ride, I don't think I've ever seen rooster tails that big, especially with my jerry rigged traveler as I'm waiting for MUMMP to dispense with all the naked chicks that flock to his Nacra & look at his pile of old cleats.:lol:

edited by: Edchris177, Oct 09, 2010 - 10:56 PM

Ed, the rudder blade on the Prindles is held by a single bolt with lock-nut, but if you look at the pics at http://www.thebeachcats.com/index.php?module=pictures&g2_itemId=72612, you will see that both the up-haul line (on a 2:1 pulley) and the down-haul line are attached to the blade.

I see where you are going with your thought process, I was thinking along similar lines, just do away with the up/down haul lines and use use a quick-release pin in place of that bolt to quickly detach rudder blade. I like this idea for holding the blade up http://www.thebeachcats.com/index.php?module=pictures&g2_itemId=67186

, but I would use a rubber stopper on the pin to protect the blade.

I would not use the pin like this http://www.thebeachcats.com/index.php?module=pictures&g2_itemId=67190 to lock the blade down, imagine hitting an obstruction at speed. :-O

I trailer my p-16 w/rudders attached,I only drive 10 miles to lake on nice smooth road so your situation could be different.raise your rudders all the way up.take a couple of 4 foot piece of 3/8 rope"one for each side" wrap rope around rudder casting. between top of hull&bottom of rudder control arm then arround the back under the rudder snug against casting below lock down bolt.make 2or 3 passes tie off & release rudder so it pinches rope & supports the rudder do this to both sides then center them up& tie tiller stick to where you knot your traveler sheet.I also extend tiller stick up the center of tramp to where my trapeze bungee cord comes thru tramp&secure there as well.
this seems to work really well for me. a picture would clarify above paragraph but my girl has camera for the weekend so i can post pics of my set up later if you want 🙂 there are other ways as well some guys have a support that attaches tomast & cradles rudders in the up possition.

Thanks for the input Bill, appreciate it, I had a similar idea in mind,constructing a stopper for the blades, problem is that I have to drive 60-90 min to nearest lakes, 3 hr drive to really good one. Am what is termed a trailer sailor because of the huge distances to trailer cat to nearest body of water, can't have that kind of stress on the gudgeons.