Nacra 5.0 Questions

should be MUCH lighter and easier to sail solo than a h18

but a little slower and a little more delicate...

for righting, how heavy are you?

hulls for a 2000 boat should be foam sandwich, same as the h18

enjoy

check your hull VIN#. I'm wondering if that is a model year 2000 ? ?

Do you have a name?

erice wrote: a little more delicate

In several ways. Working on the hulls is pretty simple using the West Systems Epoxy for repairing damage the tricky part IMHO is gelcoat difficulty varies depending on the repair size. If its a small area the preval sprayer works pretty good but you have to thin it out allot to get a good spray then you will still have some orange peel but after wetsanding it will look good!

edited by: fa1321, Sep 02, 2010 - 09:41 AM

Hey guys, my name is Peter. Thanks for the info.

I'm about 180 lbs, 5'11". I'll probably be sailing 2 up with the gf, who is about 120 lbs, or someone heavier.

I'm suprised to hear the 5.0 is slower than the H18. The h 18 we had was fast, but would not fly a hull. Even with two people (320 lbs or so), it would lift one hull and then bury the other, and then slow down due to the drag, and then drop back into the water.

On a windy day on lake michigan it was plain nasty to right even with 2 people. The mast would have a tendancy to point downwind making the trap act like a sail into the wind! Was certainly a pain.

I'll be sailing this thing on a small lake, so that shouldn't be much of an issue.

As far as the year, I'm not 100% sure yet. I knew where the owner kept it and went to look at it. He said it was circa 2000 so could be older. Either way, for the price, i'm taking it. 🙂

For working on the hulls. I actually already have the West Systems Expoxy and the fast hardner. Can I patch it up with that, sand it, then take it a paint shop to respray/ gel coat the hulls? Are these gel coats hulls or just paint?

Thanks for the input !

i say the speed of the 5.0 will be a little slower than the h18 due to the published handicaps

from memory the h18 has the same handicap as my nacra5.2

and both the nacra 5.2 and the h18 have longer hulls, more sail area and center-boards

all are important for getting around a race course quickly

but you could quite easily find that a 5.0 sailed solo in light lake winds will be faster than an h18 2-up

the nacra 5.0 comes very highly recommended and nacra still basically make it as the nacra 500

edited by: erice, Sep 03, 2010 - 09:16 AM

The 5.0 is a really great boat and will not be any slower than a 5.2 or H18 given the correct conditions. The 5.0 will not point as high as either boat but it is just as fast off the wind. I had a 5.0 and sold it and bought a 5.2 expecting a big difference....Ends up that the 5.2 never reached the speeds my 5.0 did on the gps. The 5.0 is a fast boat in the right hands.

The nice thing about the 5.0, having recently bought one, is that it is fast as TurboCat says (I just need to work on getting the speed out of it), it's light for hauling up and down the beach and it's simple to sail (no daggers, booms etc).

I can take out my wife and 7 yr old to just cruise around, just me and the 7 yr old if things get fun...and solo when I want to. Also, as I have learned and heard on this forum the hull volume is great if you don't have your weight properly distributed fore and aft - it's forgiving.

I bought mine in May/June and can't stop sailing it at every opp - been bitten by the bug.

David

Indyxc wrote: For working on the hulls. I actually already have the West Systems Expoxy and the fast hardner. Can I patch it up with that, sand it, then take it a paint shop to respray/ gel coat the hulls? Are these gel coats hulls or just paint?

Yes you can use that but you might want to get the slow hardner and some filler for deep gouges and scratches. The boat was gelcoat origallly but people do paint them the guy TurboCat painted his 5.2 and it looked good he could probably give you some great pointers he loved his 5.0 he still talks about getting another one.

I have a 5.7, the larger brother of the 5.0. I weigh 170 lb & solo it more often than not. Solo is a bit of a handicap because I can't hold it down once the wind gets up past 15 mph. In those case I have to power down, &/or point more, as opposed to full reaches.
I have dumped mine 5 times. With two people & a line, righting is a couple of minutes. I have righted it 3 times solo. Twice I used the aid of a bag, once just myself,(on a windy day) It is very easy to swim the mast around into the wind. With 15-20 mph I righted it solo by just hiking out on the line.
This is my first cat, so I can't compare it directly to others, but I like it a lot.
You can determine your model year by the hull number.
It will look something like this, mine is an '84.

edited by: Edchris177, Sep 05, 2010 - 11:34 AM

Thank you everyone for their input.

I paid for the boat yesterday and it is mine! It actually turned out to be a lot older than the owner thought, but again for the price, it's still a great deal. Looked at the sails,and they are the orignal Narca 5.0 sails in very good condition.

Hardware on the boat is also in good shape, except over the last couple weeks, someone stole one of the Harken ratchening jib blocks. I looked online, and found this:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=51659&BASE

That's freaking expensive! Are there any other brands that I can use that are cheaper! $320 for 2 new blocks is a lot!

Worse off I want to find one locally so I can sail this weekend! Does west marine stock these in store?

Thanks

edited by: Indyxc, Sep 09, 2010 - 10:28 AM

Yep that is what they cost! It's the ratchet mechanicsm that does it, and you really need it. You can rig it uni (just the main) and get out, but tacking will be more difficult.

I have a spare pair that I was saving for an emergency. I could probably sell you one of those for $60 but I wouldn't have access to it until this weekend and it would take 2-3 weeks to ship from Canada at a reasonable cost (I could ship it quicker but for the cost you would be better off buying the new ones). If you are interested PM me.

Are you in the Great Lakes area?

Regards,
Dave

you can look in the classified section of this site, and ebay as well.

west marine may have it, but not likely as it is a pretty cat specific part.

It's hard to believe someone would steal an old part like that (not impossible)...

You can get if from anyone who is a Harken dealer, which is just about everyone. The part was common across a lot of different boats in the classic line. I would call Harken, ask for Jim or one of the small boat guys and they should fix you right up. Or upgrade to the new Carbo line, which has a better angle range, which was a drawback to the classic blocks. If I had to order new, I would get the new carbo series ratchamatics.

O.K. Andrew, I know your just chompin' at the bit for somebody to ask, so . . . I'll bite. Why the user name change? MN3??

Name Changed to protect the guilty

That's freaking expensive! Are there any other brands that I can use that are cheaper! $320 for 2 new blocks is a lot!

Ronstan gear is usually a bit cheaper, and a bit stronger.
they do have blocks that would work here, but i think they now use a dyneema line vs a metal shackle to attach. there are also the old Seaway brand from hobies (crap.. dont buy em)

If you are going with Ronstan gear ideally you would want the 55 mm orbit blocks like thers http://www.apsltd.com/p-9672-55mm-orbit-ratchet-single-w-bkt-cleat.aspx they go for about $125.

You MAY get away with a 40 mm orbit block though such as these http://www.apsltd.com/p-9516-40mm-orbit-ratchet-single-wbecket-cleat.aspx they go for about $95. I don't THINK that the working load on those blocks would reach more than 385 lbs (the safe working load) but I am not sure. I am pretty darn sure that they would never experience the breaking load of 1100 lbs for those blocks.

Either way you would have to add some kind of swivel to the setup, http://www.apsltd.com/p-8988-swivel-shackle-316-pin.aspx

It sounds like you are not sailing htis season, the boat is a winter project?
If that is the case I would email Dan Berger on this site & ask him if he has a set of blocks. Or send Wolfman 60 clams & buy his. They do come up for sale on this site in the classifieds.
You want the ratcheting system, & over the winter you should be able to source a good deal on a used set.

And, yeah, Andrew, spill the beans, what's up with MN3?

edited by: Edchris177, Sep 09, 2010 - 10:05 PM

mummp wrote: You can get if from anyone who is a Harken dealer, which is just about everyone. The part was common across a lot of different boats in the classic line. I would call Harken, ask for Jim or one of the small boat guys and they should fix you right up. Or upgrade to the new Carbo line, which has a better angle range, which was a drawback to the classic blocks. If I had to order new, I would get the new carbo series ratchamatics.

O.K. Andrew, I know your just chompin' at the bit for somebody to ask, so . . . I'll bite. Why the user name change? MN3??

Hey guys,

I am in the great lakes region, SE Michigan, but will be sailing mostly on Cass Lake, which is about 1300 acres.

I will be sailing this season, and doing most of the work over the winter, but do want to get it up and running as is.

I ended up going to a local sail shop, and the had a similiar block but it was the newer rachomatic type with the load sensing ratching system. I need ONE of this weekend, so I bought it, and will just get a replacement matching one over the winter vai ebay.

Anyway, are these rachomatic ones, seen here:

http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&mfc=Harken&sku=2628&frm=g

Are these worth it over the standard one way rachet for the jib?

Does anyone have the Harken non ratchomatic version of this? The Harken 2628 is the rachomatic, is the 2616 the same thing, but with an on/off ratching option only?

Thanks!

http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&mfc=Harken&sku=2616&frm=g

Is it that one, or this one? Harken 186 I have a feeling these come in 3 flavors. Ratchomatic, on/off ratchet, no rachet.

http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&ident=175065&mfc=Harken&sku=186&prod_name=Harken+2.25+Single+Block+with+Adjustable+Cam+Cleat+%26+Becket&sectionid=5040

http://www.apsltd.com/p-3178-57mm-carbo-ratchet-single-150-cam-matic-becket.aspx

That's what I use, don't need auto rachets for the jib blocks.

The old $153.85 This is what is on my boat.

http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=28-0188&Category_Code=C-BL&Store_Code=MS

If I had to replace them it would be with the new carbo blocks that are cheaper.

The new $116.20

http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=28-2616&Category_Code=C-BL&Store_Code=MS

Thanks for the info guys. I am keeping the rachomatic one I have. It's the only one a local shop had, and I want to sail it this weekend. It's expensive but, oh well. Tomorrow is the maiden voyage.

A couple more questions. I was reading the nacra assembly manual, and it says the main sail is hosted and then hooked up on a hook to the top of the mast (like my Hobbie 18 was).

I was working on the boat today, and it looks like I just hook the shackle to the top of the main, raise it to the top, and then just tie the main raising line a clear to the bottom of the mast. There is no hook at the top of the mast? Is this normal? The nacra manual says there should be. This is a 1983 Nacra, per the hull.

Second, the mast sits on top of a ball as per the manual. However, the mast seems to sit high up on this ball, and is not cut out on onside like it says in the manual.

Is this a aftermarket mast or something?

Also, since the blocks are off, can someone point me to a manual on how to tie the sheets for the jib?

Thanks for the help!

My Nacra mast base looks like this. Make sure the ball is screwed all the way down, mine turns easy and I have found it not all the way down. There were two different size mast balls and bases. Only the larger size is available now. Make sure you don not have a large ball and a small mast base.

On my 5.8 the main halyard is connected to the sail with one of these.

The large ring hooks to one of these.

Something like this should be at the top of the mast.

This is the new style hook mine is only riveted to one side.

The 5.0 might be different.

edited by: skarr1, Sep 11, 2010 - 09:54 PM

Murrays list a halyard for a 5.0 that is part wire. Maybe the wire hooks on the bottom of the mast like a Hobie.
http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MS&Product_Code=02-4173-50&Category_Code=

You have an '83 model, it should be the same as my '84. There should be a 1/4" "ball" swaged onto the wire halyard. You should be able to see it about 3-4' from where the wire halyard attaches to the line portion of the halyard. When raising the sail this ball travels through the sheaves at the mast top, & comes domw the FRONT side of the mast about 3'. There is a small fork riveted to the mast. Pull the halyard til you hear it "click" & it won't pull any further, this means the sail is all the way up. As you give it that last few inches of travel, hold the halyard 1-2' in front of the mast. this allows the swaged ball to clear the fork. Now move your hand right up against the mast, keeping the halyard exactly in line with the center of the mast, & release some pressure. The ball should engage UNDER the fork & lock the sail. It really is very easy, & once you've done it, you get it every time. If it doesn't hook, something is binding the sail & it isn't all the way up. You may have to rotate the mast so you can keep the line at the center of the mast.
The mast steps were made in 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" sizes. I think your .83 uses the smaller ball, & they don't sell them anymore. I can post a photo to show how the step should sit on the ball if you need it.
The fix is to replace the mast base,(Murrays has a kit to changeover) or go to an industrial supply company,buy a bag of 20 delrin 1 1/4" balls, drill & tap them to 9/16" fine thread, & sell the others to guys with older style bases.
Philip (MUMMP)gave me this site; http://www.mcmaster.com/#plastics/=8tbkt3

Damon has the Nacra assembly manual on this site, there are 2 of them, slightly different versions. Go to the technical hepl section here at The Beachcats, there is a ton of info. Let us know how it goes.
http://www.thebeachcats.com/index.php?module=pictures&g2_itemId=35212

Here is a photo of what my mast step looks like. The bolt,(or 1/4" pin) for stepping the mast is in place. If you do not have the captive ball system, you may not have the bolt/pin. It makes for a much more secure arrangement as the mast is going up or down. The wishbone is the mast rotator on a boomless nacra.

Here is a photo of how to rig your jib blocks. I combined 2 photos to show each side, in case the explanation wasn't clear. The remaining line just lays in a coil just below the bottom of the picture. You will have an appx 3' length of 3/16" line attached to the clew of the jib. Fold the 3' line in half, place the folded end through the grommet at the jib clew, then feed the two loose ends through the loop. Even everything out & pull tight. After you hoist the jib & tension it, tie one of the loose ends of the 3/16" line to each of the small blocks using a bowline. Run a piece of 1/4" shock cord from one end of your V brace bar (below the front beam) up to the strap eye on the mast,(or through the end of the diamond wires)& over to the other end of the V brace bar. This will prevent those small blocks from hanging up on the mast base every time you tack. Make sure to run the jib lines over top of the shock cord.

edited by: Edchris177, Sep 12, 2010 - 03:21 PM

Edchris177....In looking at your pictures, I have to ask... do you leave that bolt in all the time? I use a pin while stepping the mast and immediately pull it out. I was always told that if you break a shroud or forestay and the mast comes down the bolt will be bent and bound so tightly that a sawsall will be needed to free it. The Hobie 20's have roughly the same setup, where you have to rotate the mast 90 degrees while stepping. Pain in the ass!

You are correct. I left the bolt in as I didn't know any better. A thread a while back (I think it was Wolfman Dave/Damon)addressed the issue of how much damage could be done if you suffered a demasting with the bolt/pin in place.
I only raise mt mast once a year, & resolved to remove the bolt, but...
Thanks for the reminder, I'm going to pull it out before next sail.
On another note, those pictures of the beams you sent me. The old 500 that you sailed to death, are you interested in selling the front beam in the photo?

Thanks for all the help guys.

With all the help here, I was able to rig the boat, and take it out for the first time Sunday and yesterday. It did great and I had a blast. Had 3 people on it, and everything worked properly, except some old ropes broke (trapeze and tramp).

Edchriss-

The bottom of my mast looks like yours in the pic, except it doesn't have the sides cut out, or any holes for pins. Likewise, the ball looks larger than that, and doesn't sit anywhere near that far in the hole. About half the ball is captured under the bottom of that necked part of the boom. I forgot to take a picture, but I will tonight. I am a bit worried, because I think if I were to capsized right now, the bottom of the mast would popped off the ball. The previous owner said he turtled it before, and never said he had that issue? I'll take a picture tonight, or soon.

Also, my Nacra is missing the wishbone on the front of the mast, and noticed the mast is rotating like crazy. Basically it follows the sail. This is slowing me down I'm sure, but then again my Nacra doesn't have the cleats like yours does on the front cross member to mount the lines to. Should it have one?

Thanks again for the input. Helps a ton!.