to do this, you furl the jib if you can
travel out the main about 1 foot (may be different for different boats)
and secure the rudders over hard (all the way) in the opposite direction from the main
Leave the jib out, backwinded. That tries to drive the bows downwind, opposite rudder counteracts it. On the Nacra we can drop the main, or leave it in a null position.
Different boats react differently when hove-to.
When sailing on a blue water full keeled Rafiki 38, we sat nearly motionless. The rounded hulled Cats, my H18, & previous Mystere would drift downwind much quicker than the skeg hulled NACRAs. Dropping the boards on the Hobie slows this considerably, but it can also change the trim, you often have to very slightly adjust the main to compensate.
Skeg hulls are dream. I once parked the N5.7 with jib & bungeed rudders whilst I dropped the main to retrieve a top batten that was hanging halfway out. In a real blow I could have tied up the main & sat there til I finally hit the lee shore.
All sailing courses teach heave-to, IMO all sailor should know how to do it, & how your particular boat best does it.
E C Hilliard
Nacra 5.7
Bombardier Invitation
carl2 wrote: nohuhu,, I've noticed that in CRAM racing when they are congregating & waiting for the start they "Park" the cats...not quite sure how its done..looks like backwinding the jib & turning rudder into wind & holding it with a lose sail?
To park, head into the wind close-hauled. Sheet the jib from the wrong side until the clew crosses the mast base. Travel your main sail all the way out, sheeted snugly, and push your rudders away from you. Fix the tiller in this position if you can by extending the stick to the side stay. The cat will stay to weather like this, gently sawing back and forth, even in the ocean.
The yellow paperback, Catamaran Racing: For the 90's, has good information on handling your cat, including how to back up!
Rick Whte, the author of the above book, also published this one: Sailing Drills: How to Sail Better, Faster, Smarter, Safer. It takes catamaran handling to a much greater level. Makes for a fun day (or two) on the water learning how to do this stuff.
Leave the jib out, backwinded. That tries to drive the bows downwind, opposite rudder counteracts it. On the Nacra we can drop the main, or leave it in a null position.
Jib may or may not be best depending on boat, wind and wave action.
if something goes wrong (i.e. the line securing the tililer fails) you are opening a can of worms
Different boats react differently when hove-to.
totally agree and i should have disclaimed for that
MN3
Jib may or may not be best depending on boat, wind and wave action.
if something goes wrong (i.e. the line securing the tililer fails) you are opening a can of worms
It's a very small can, perhaps a single skinny worm, barely worthy of baiting a perch hook.:lol:
If the tiller does let go, you are merely in the position you use to tack, with a backwinded jib. Nothing happens very fast while tacking, even if you have the rudders pointing the right way. If let loose they will settle at close to null position, & you will slowly come around. With the main free, it will stay at null, untill it hits the shroud, giving you plenty of time to push the rudders back where you want them.
I have hove-to on all my Cats, save for the new to me Dart, I would leave the jib out, drop the main if you are in for a real blow, or prolonged sit.
Edited by Edchris177 on Aug 23, 2017 - 03:23 PM.
E C Hilliard
Nacra 5.7
Bombardier Invitation
I have hove-to on all my Cats, save for the new to me Dart, I would leave the jib out, drop the main if you are in for a real blow, or prolonged sit.
i am not a fan of the "on the water main drop" unless it is real do - or -die"
I would have pulled in my jib at the first chance to depower my boat and ducked behind an island.
MN3
MN3 wrote: my biggest issue has always been on the wire it chokes me... i have solved that with a 2' thin bungie accross my lifejacket. i can completely unzip it on the wire and it isn't falling off me. i can also run the bungee under the hook and it holds my harness up.
Test that baby out in full immersion... you add a lot to this forum and I'd hate to lose that.
I have recent experience with a similar situation on my PFD; I had a bad day at the local run-bike-paddle triathlon this year... among other things, I dumped my boat, got separated from it, and got sucked back into the rapids and further below the surface than I care to remember. I had my paddle PFD belt clipped but had slacked on zipping up... I wasn't 'planning' to swim! The PFD belt separated and as I was going down, the PFD was going UP and with me trying to swim up to the surface, that PFD was at my elbows almost immediately. I pulled my arms down and grabbed the vest and used one arm to hold it with the other arm still digging for the surface. I popped up next to one of the race rescue kayaks and grabbed on and kicked for shore with the kayak assist. Said rescuer rightfully observed: "That PFD will work better if it was zipped onto you. You're the first guy I thought we might actually lose today." That's not how I want to finish... or is that a DNF?
Lots of great MOB stuff in this thread! I'll be discussing this with my crew.
Zip/Buckle it up, and make it back to share the story here!
Randii
Test that baby out in full immersion... you add a lot to this forum and I'd hate to lose that.
Thanks Randii -
your experience sounds terrible -
I have capsized a few times (or jumped in) and had the jacket rise up and cover my face - i didn't find that comfy nor helpful
I amended my method at that time and started to use the webbing/buckle that is on the bottom of the West Marine pfd i have used for the past decade (not the same exact pdf) - this holds the pdf much closer and tighter (while leaving room for the hook) and would help keep it in place if/when i go swimming
as it were, i purchased a boat 2 years ago with wings - and hadn't wore a harness in years (broke the hook of my harness and didn't replace it)
I JUST purchased a new spreader bar (hook) and rigged trap wires on my boat again for the first time in years.
Edited by MN3 on Aug 24, 2017 - 08:39 AM.
MN3
MN3, I had a PFD I loved, unless I was on the wire. Same issue and I tried everything including the bungee, but to no avail.
We don't want to lose you in a freak PFD/bungee accident. You provide too much info and entertainment (see other thread, going on)
My humble opinion is to go to sporting goods store and wear out a salesperson or two trying on everything possible with the harness on and attempting to jack that harness into flying position. Maybe search out the best looking saleswoman in the store to assist
I did exactly this and found one that worked for me in all conditions. PFD, not saleswoman. FWIW, it's a kayak zhik, but it's all about personal fit and choice, so my experience is just that, mine.
Thanks windwardde
I no longer use the bungee, and use the bottom webbing / clip
edit- removed my comments about brands that i don't have first hand knowledge of
Edited by MN3 on Aug 24, 2017 - 02:46 PM.
MN3
your experience sounds terrible
It got my attention, certainly. The road rash from crashing out the bike in a different leg of the same race was worse! π In any case, I survived both and am zipping in better, so we'll call it a net win... and with a new slowest time in the race, I'm certain next year will be a relative improvement!
Sounds like you had the unfastened jacket figured out on your own... no surprise, considering how much sailing you seem to squeeze into your days. Color me jealous.
I'm still looking (lazily) for a better PFD/harness solution. The Blood Red kickstarter campaign has my interest, I hope they can get the appropriate ratings for stateside use. I've tried on a Mustang that I like, as well, but I'd rather have closed-cell foam than an inflatable, at least for my beach cat. Seems like every different vessel I'm on has a different optimum configuration.
Randii
Throw bags are 60 bucks at West Marine.
$$$ you would gladly spend, if you still could, when you actually need one.
(Probably twice that if you are the one in the water,..)
I used to Solo all the time Hobie 16/14 at Channel Islands in the Pacific and would practice the following drills all the time. When I had a crew, I made them practice with me as well.
Getting confident is very useful.
1.) I Always carried an extra life vest (old but useable) and would toss it overboard and practice searching for it.
2.) I frequently practiced righting my boats in progressively larger seas and heavier winds.
3.) I practiced sailing backwards and had a system of picking up the MO (vest) by backing into it.
I mastered this in calm seas then progressively worked up into scary seas.
No one was ever allowed on my boat without a proper pfd PROPERLY worn.
I also carried the following:
Portable VHF
Whistle on every vest and one on the boat
Sea Anchor
One flare and one smoke
I coil of rope to make temporary standing rigging and help with anything else, lashing etc.
Edited by afvenom on Aug 25, 2017 - 05:50 AM.
I require $100 (cash) to throw a life saving device to anyone
cash up front - NO I.O.U.'s nor checks!!!!
nohuhu wrote: Throw bags are 60 bucks at West Marine.
$$$ you would gladly spend, if you still could, when you actually need one.
(Probably twice that if you are the one in the water,..)
MN3
HaHa
MN3 wrote: I require $100 (cash) to throw a life saving device to anyone
cash up front - NO I.O.U.'s nor checks!!!!
[quote=nohuhu]Throw bags are 60 bucks at West Marine.
$$$ you would gladly spend, if you still could, when you actually need one.
(Probably twice that if you are the one in the water,..)
Even more affordable, I have one, certainly adequate:
I recommend the throw bags from NRS. https://www.nrs.com/category/4018/rescue/throw-bags-tow-ropes . They also make good PFDs.
"How low can you go?"
Hoping MN3 will give me a discount, when he throws me this,.. π