Lets see your boat!!

Got the A together and went sailing on Monday. While wheeling it to the beach, I put a huge scratch in my new paint 😡

now you don't have to worry about scratches!

This is what I'm working on now - A Harstil 31 This is a 'camp' model which is a huge beachcat with a small cabin stuck on it

coastrat wrote: now you don't have to worry about scratches!

I agree, but the first ones hurt the most!

Dan what a good looking boat and thanks for the rudders

captedteach...like the boat! is it asymetrical hulls or does it have daggers? looks like a huge prindle 16! with cabin...

Hey Bill

Looks more like a P18-2 or 19 just a bit bigger. It has boards and as designed has under hung rudders. I'm building transom hung cassette rudders so I can get her into shallow waters. When I slide her in the water I'll let you know It's only three hours from H'burg to here so you can come up and hang out for a day or so. I'm shooting for an August relaunch. I'm also hoping to take this to meet Hokulea when she comes around this big ass marble we all live on..............

your on lee! are you around sardis/greneda? i have family in laws in batesville so we get up there time to time...that boat will look great with some paint, love the design. you might have to drag her down and do some camping out at the islands, would love to get her in the gulf on a honking day!

I'm looking at a place down there - I used to hang out at OSYC quite a bit when I raced my H16 a lot I'll be down later this month for a few days around the 20th. Got some motorcycle stuff to do down there and will be visiting a few friends - possibly the realtor too. Yes I'm in Grenada so stop and give me a shout on your way thru to Batesville

As Damon can tell you - the beer is always Kold at my shop!! AND if you catch it right the parties are pretty good too!!

JESTER ~ Mid '80s Fesenmeyer designed, Old Wooden Boatworks 'Sea Lion' lapstrake sailing dinghy ...

BANGARANG! ~ Welsford Navigator ...

Current Project Boat ~ Early '60s Hurley Silhouette Mk ll ...

AJ

My laptop has a virus and i havent been able to get online often..

Nice boats every one!
i painted my blades and got a stiffening kit on them, also i have pics sailing it on the bay now!!

yurdle wrote: [quote=havliii]48 rattle cans of rustoleum, play sand in the paint for the non -skid areas. Kathy (in crew seat) designed the logo.

Whoever rigged the mainsheet on that Prindle should not do that.

soulofasailor wrote: Yes that mainsheet looks all mangled up, Not a good thing! It needs to flow nicely

Yurdle & Soulofasailor,

Above is the offending mainsheet that is apparently reeved incorrectly. Havlii alerted me to my grave error, but neither he nor I while looking at the main sheet could figure out what the problem was. Perhaps it was because we were busy wiping the smiles off of our faces at 15 knots, but I really want to ask the experts what I have done wrong. I have included a screenshot of Souls mainsheet that was featured prominently in his youtube video for you two to use an an example. I really at a loss. Could you sit down in your easy chairs and diagram where I went wrong? Camera angle? Nah couldn't be.

At first glance it looks like the main with the green line has the top block rotated 180.

Ideally you want all the lines running through a set of blocks to look like they're going around an oval race track. Round and round and round, always turning the same direction. But never crossing in the middle and never reversing the turn direction. This keeps everything running cleanly.

I'd take a picture of mine and post it, but... It's still in my yard. (Hey, I got my trailer back from the welder today and got it registered! There's hope!)

Tom

keschwa,

Your mainsheet may or may not be reeved incorrectly. It could be simply twisted.

It looks like a 7:1 setup, with four sheaves on the bottom and three on the top.

I would reeve it as follows:
1) run the bitter end through the cam cleat ring and into the bottom-middle sheave.
2) then up through the back of the top middle sheave.
3) then run it down through the front of the bottom left sheave
4) then run it up through the back of the top left sheave
5) then run it down through the left side of the lateral sheave
6) then up through the front of the top right sheave
7) then down through the back of the bottom right sheave
8) then up to the ring and tie it off.

Hope this helps.

keschwa,

I just found a link to a 7:1 system online and it seems to be reeved like yours. http://www.murrays.com/archive/20-21.pdf

1) through cam cleat and into front of bottom middle sheave
2) up through back of top right sheave
3) down through back of bottom right sheave
4) up through front of top middle sheave
5) down through back of bottom left sheave
6) up through back of top left sheave
7) down through left side of lateral sheave
8) up and tie off on ring.

I went back and looked at the original pic, and I think the bowline on the boom is deceiving -- it looks (and looked) like you had it run through that tang up and back down.

With that line in front of the blocks, there's no way from the pic to see if they're reeved correctly; however, I was just commenting on that line you have tied separately.

I would still, just for the sake of ease, swap your upper for a triple w/ becket so that you don't have to do that, and you can detach blocks from boom w/ one snap/soft shackle.

benedict wrote: Ideally you want all the lines running through a set of blocks to look like they're going around an oval race track. Round and round and round, always turning the same direction. But never crossing in the middle and never reversing the turn direction. This keeps everything running cleanly.

Unless your cam cleat is on the far left or right side of the block, I don't think the above is doable. If the cam cleat is in the middle of one of the blocks, then it is better to work your way to one side, then use the lateral sheave to switch to the other side, then work your way back to the middle again.

If you don't have a lateral sheave, then it is better to turn one of the blocks 90 degrees and reave it like in this video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXibVitpnRo

Is the Harken Company a respected authority? Harken blocks which we all know and love. See this link and scroll to the instructions for rigging a 6-1, blocks turned 1/4 to one another is the recommended method, no oval race track here. You can also reference US Army field manual FM 5-125. I would defer to either of these authorities. A 7-1 adds one additional sheave and ties at the becket (top block) or the boom.

http://www.harken.com/pdf/4451.pdf scroll down after PDF loads.

The first pic below is of my 1974 Red White and Blue Hobie 16 sitting on Caladesi Island, FL in 1978 alongside my friend's Keoke 16. That boat was sold in the late '80's after a major hull failure.

This second pic is of my 2011 Hobie 16SE (Stayin' Thirsty) sitting on Jacksonville Beach, FL. Buying this boat was one of the best decisions I've ever made. She will be carving up the seas in the Atlantic Ocean this weekend.

Edited by motivated on May 15, 2012 - 08:22 AM.

Is the Harken Company a respected authority?

WITHOUT QUESTION

havliii wrote: Is the Harken Company a respected authority? Harken blocks which we all know and love. See this link and scroll to the instructions for rigging a 6-1, blocks turned 1/4 to one another is the recommended method, no oval race track here. You can also reference US Army field manual FM 5-125. I would defer to either of these authorities. A 7-1 adds one additional sheave and ties at the becket (top block) or the boom.

http://www.harken.com/pdf/4451.pdf scroll down after PDF loads.

I have the harken 8:1 system that they show on that page and it was reeved as shown too. I didn't like the crossing lines (Lines 1 and 4 cross and lines 2 and 7 cross,) so I redid it so none of the lines crossed and I don't have lines jumping from the far left of one block to the far right of the other (as line 4 does in their diagram.) I don't want to hijack this thread any more than we already have. Maybe PM or a different thread?

No that I stirred things up and my sarcasm and sense of irony was lost on some - I will attempt to get things back on message. The above is My Prindle 18 with the controversial mainsheet. I won't argue with Havlii's references as I used the Harken 6:1 diagram when setting the blocks up for my Hobie 16, but in my opinion the proof that it is reeved correctly is in the operation while under sail. When I sheet in everything works smoothly and quickly, same when I release the sheet regardless of the photo.

I respect that people like rigging their boats differently but unless we are class racing there is a bit of leeway in what you can do and still operate safely. Yurdle takes his blocks off the mast with a clip, I leave mine on and remove the lower block from the traveler car, wrap the sheet and blocks on the boom and store in my trailer box. When I need to depower while on the beach, I remove the ball lock pin from the clew of the sail/outhaul and lay the boom on the tramp. The blocks were less than a season old when my 16 took its last sail to the landfill, so by using what I had on hand to outfit the Prindle I saved a bit of cash. The cost was some fun on the internet getting "schooled" on rigging a Prindle based upon a photo of a SuperCat. Gotta love it.

😆

To bump the thread, here's a pic of the 16 on Jacksonville Beach this week. I set the camera down on the sand to capture the reflection (click on the photo to get an expanded view).

Edited by motivated on Jul 21, 2012 - 08:24 PM.

Hey, thanks for bumping this thread! I finally have an on the water picture to show.

This was done during a MOB drill where the person in the water (my wife) had a camera.

Tom

the most recent pic i have after working on it

thats a cool pic motivated! were do you sail out of?

Edited by optikid on Jul 21, 2012 - 10:20 PM.

the little one

the big one

Edited by erice on Jul 21, 2012 - 10:44 PM.

My 16 first trip out since I bought it. Gave it new sails, epoxied beams, new tramp and new standing rigging. I also machined the rudder castings to allow more rake and drilled some EPOs to make use of that. I am not decided on the results.

THAT BOAT IS HUGE ... 🙂

motivated wrote: To bump the thread, here's a pic of the 16 on Jacksonville Beach this week. I set the camera down on the sand to capture the reflection (click on the photo to get an expanded view).

Edited by motivated on Jul 21, 2012 - 08:24 PM.

Edited by MN3 on Jul 23, 2012 - 11:54 AM.

why did you want / need more rake?
h16's already are close to block to block (on the mains)?

I also machined the rudder castings to allow more rake and drilled some EPOs to make use of that. I am not decided on the results.