I'm going to re-string my trapeze this year.. New wire and on the ends I have simple dog-bones on a line that goes through a pulley. I was planning to use 5/32 Dyneema. Any problems with that on the trap? I think i have used just standard polyester/nylon rope in the past.
Don't use Dynema , it will slip on stopper . Just use regular 1/4" line . Just tried it on my F18 and crew ended up in the drink ..
Why?
In terms of saving weight, gain is marginal.
Dyneema is very hard on the hands when readjusting the line.
Dyneema needs to be spliced, tying knots in a dyneema line
wil reduce its maximum load significant.
A
André de Bruin, Amsterdam,the Netherlands
P 18-2
Thanks for the voice of experience. I was thinking strength is good, but I don't want it slipping and dropping myself or anyone else over the side. 🙂
Replace the wire with dyneema, the adjuster line should be something easy to handle like sta-set.
My trap wires are 7/64 amsteel, and I think 1/4" sta-set on the adjuster.
The real issue why most beach cats don't use hm (high modulious) lines for traps or shrouds:
chafe
the single tang aloft does not provide enough space between side shrouds and trap wires. they cross over (esp during mast rotation) and will cut through a hm line quickly
If you wish to use HM line on your boat, you should learn to splice. 8 and 12 strand is VERY easy to splice
MN3
I run HM dyneema on my beachcat traps. There are a few ways to do things but this is what I can say from experience:
1) You want normal line cover over the dyneema anywhere there is a chafe point, which is normally at the top of the mast right below the thimble and bottom where the adjustment cleat is. You also want to keep an eye where the trap crossed the shroud lower down when you are trapezing aft on the boat
2) You splice, no knots on the lines period. I prefer to splice the crew and skippers trap lines to a single thimble on each side.
3) At the top, you can attach to the normal trapze point with thimbles, or, which may be better from a chafe standpoint, you can attach the traps to the eyelet in the standing rigging using a soft shackle. This is more pro-level stuff and it requires you to have a good set of terminations on the standing rigging like the latest hydraulically swaged thimbles Nacra are using.
4) I use 7/64" line but if chafe is a concern 1/8" is fine, this is still lighter than stainless trapezes and if you are racing, weight counts.
Full wire trap lines are probably better if you are distance racing and don't have the opportunity to check your traps for wear regularly, I'm usually mast down once a month so can do a full line inspection while I'm coiling.
I have brand new wire trap lines. I was considering what to put in for the adjusters, and I think I'll just grab my standard Sta-Set. The old trap lines had gotten curly from some trips around the shroud, so this year we're starting fresh with all new wire.
http://www.apsltd.com/fse-robline-8-plait-pro-line.html
This is what I use for adjustment line. Grips easily, abrasion resistant, and locks into the cleats well.
-Sam