Enjoy and thanks to Rick Bliss for getting the halyard to us on time!
Good deal if you do it on the ground just make sure the rudders are tied off as well as the boom.
I have to tip the A cat 75% of the time. It was decided long ago we didn’t need halyards!
I have to tip the A cat 75% of the time. It was decided long ago we didn’t need halyards!
Do you mean you have to tip the a cat 75% of the time you rig?
Leeboweffect: you must have mast up storage otherwise this can be done while mast is down...
another way to do this is to sew the bitter ends of the new and the old halyard together (end to end, no side to side overlap) and simply run it up the mast,
MN3
bacho wrote:
I have to tip the A cat 75% of the time. It was decided long ago we didn’t need halyards!
Cannot compute the %. Please explain. I've seen folks push the sail up, assuming a good enough boltrope and reasonable fit on the mast track. Does that only work 25% of the time? Only with light batten tension?
bacho wrote: Good deal if you do it on the ground just make sure the rudders are tied off as well as the boom.
I like to "tipping" in the water if possible, much easier on the boat finish/graphics. When I do it on the ground I use pool noodles under the hull to reduce/avoid damage. Good advice on securing the rudders up and boom centered otherwise the rudders can be damaged when you upright the boat (particularly on land) and the boom will fall down in your way.
bacho wrote: I have to tip the A cat 75% of the time. It was decided long ago we didn’t need halyards!
We have a local Acat enthusiast who is compelled to tip his boat most every sail for some reason. Also for him it's just not a day on the water without a capsize or three 😆
Leeboweffect: you must have mast up storage otherwise this can be done while mast is down...
We do have mast up storage at this venue and yes it's easier to replace the halyard with the mast down, but in this case we only had 30 minutes before the skippers meeting with no time to trailer/land the boat, take the mast down and perform the repair, so tip and replace...
MN3 wrote: another way to do this is to sew the bitter ends of the new and the old halyard together (end to end, no side to side overlap) and simply run it up the mast,
This is not possible on the Nacra 5.0. The halyard is a split wire/rope type. The thimbles of the wire portion must be on opposite sides of the mast head sheaves. To accomplish this the sheaves must be removed and the wire laid in. The thimbles will not run between the sheaves and mast head casting.
This is not possible on the Nacra 5.0. The halyard is a split wire/rope type. The thimbles of the wire portion must be on opposite sides of the mast head sheaves. To accomplish this the sheaves must be removed and the wire laid in. The thimbles will not run between the sheaves and mast head casting.
GOTCHA - ugggggggg. i hate wire ropes as they often splinter and bite
I have removed the wire jib halyard and replaced with dyneema -
Good advice on securing the rudders up and boom centered otherwise the rudders can be damaged when you upright the boat (particularly on land) and the boom will fall down in your way.
Better just to remove them - a few minutes may save you from scratching up your beam, and even with the rudders tied off, they can still fall down since they will be horizontal when the boat is flipped and can slip off the purchase that holds them up. even in water you may experience some waves that jar them off the purchase, and often the boat will rotate around a bunch while flipping or lowering (unless you have a bunch of people helping)
if you are righting the boat and they do fall down, you have a great chance of breaking a rudder or worse breaking a casting esp on land
MN3
martin_langhoff wrote: [quote=bacho]
I have to tip the A cat 75% of the time. It was decided long ago we didn’t need halyards!
Cannot compute the %. Please explain. I've seen folks push the sail up, assuming a good enough boltrope and reasonable fit on the mast track. Does that only work 25% of the time? Only with light batten tension?
Getting them to hook can be tricky.
Installing rudders or a boom later on the A just is not that practical. Most of that time you do not want the sail hoisted until its time go.
This is not possible on the Nacra 5.0. The halyard is a split wire/rope type. The thimbles of the wire portion must be on opposite sides of the mast head sheaves. To accomplish this the sheaves must be removed and the wire laid in. The thimbles will not run between the sheaves and mast head casting.
We broke the main halyard on the 5.7 last summer, it is the exact same setup as yours, & has to be replaced the same way. it let go where the little swaged ball holds the shackle.
We also tipped it in the water, then rested the mast end on the dock while we jury rigged a new shackle, as we didn’t have another wire.
GOTCHA - ugggggggg. I hate wire ropes.....
It’s not that bad. Because the wire runs over two sheaves, it only bends 90* at each side of the mast. The wire portion is short, & cannot be touched unless you are about 28’ tall. They last for decades, I had no meat hooks when it finally broke.
These legacy Nacra have a slug on the wire, which hooks under a fork, that is attached to the front of the mast, about 3’ down from the masthead.
You could change to all line, but would have to use no stretch line. The stock system you can use any cheap line, as the halyard hangs slack & the wire takes the entire downhaul load.
Edited by Edchris177 on Nov 03, 2019 - 10:11 PM.
E C Hilliard
Nacra 5.7
Bombardier Invitation
Adding a hook and ring seems like a fairly easy retrofit, isn’t it?
Andinista wrote: Adding a hook and ring seems like a fairly easy retrofit, isn’t it?
I’m sure it could be done, but there are disadvantages too.
Te Nacra has a cast fitting that slides into the top of the mast extrusion. It holds the two sheaves, & seals the mast.
I can’t remember how far down it goes, I think just over an inch. The hook needs to be precisely positioned for reliable hookup. Murphy’s law says you’d end up drilling right on the edge of the casting, & unable to properly rivet the hook.
The other, (and bigger detriment in some cases), is raising & lowering the sail. With a hook, you need to be pointed right into the wind. For those who keep cats on lifts, or have to raise while tied to a dock, this can be a PITA.
My H18 & Dart really want to be pointed into the wind. The Dart is so fussy, I keep a bridle tied on the prevailing downwind side of the dock, & walk the cat from its lift, secure to bridle, then hoist. It is impossible to drop the sail unless direct into wind, especially in a blow.
The Nacra system may seem dated, but it is bulletproof for hoist/drop. The sail can be over against the shrouds, & it latches/unlatches first try, every try.
Edited by Edchris177 on Nov 04, 2019 - 09:30 AM.
E C Hilliard
Nacra 5.7
Bombardier Invitation
hese legacy Nacra have a slug on the wire, which hooks under a fork, t
I didn't realize there was a fork system like the H16
MN3
My N5.7 has the fork and ball system on the halyard, I have done the Cat-tip on-shore in the grass. Makes things a lot easier than dropping the mast.
MN3 wrote:
This is not possible on the Nacra 5.0. The halyard is a split wire/rope type. The thimbles of the wire portion must be on opposite sides of the mast head sheaves. To accomplish this the sheaves must be removed and the wire laid in. The thimbles will not run between the sheaves and mast head casting.
GOTCHA - ugggggggg. i hate wire ropes as they often splinter and bite
I have removed the wire jib halyard and replaced with dyneema -Good advice on securing the rudders up and boom centered otherwise the rudders can be damaged when you upright the boat (particularly on land) and the boom will fall down in your way.
Better just to remove them - a few minutes may save you from scratching up your beam, and even with the rudders tied off, they can still fall down since they will be horizontal when the boat is flipped and can slip off the purchase that holds them up. even in water you may experience some waves that jar them off the purchase, and often the boat will rotate around a bunch while flipping or lowering (unless you have a bunch of people helping)
if you are righting the boat and they do fall down, you have a great chance of breaking a rudder or worse breaking a casting esp on land
The main halyard is wire with a shackle and a ball stop. There is a hook at the top of the mast where the ball stop hooks into. Changing to Dyneema is possible, but not very efficient.
texastuma wrote: The main halyard is wire with a shackle and a ball stop. There is a hook at the top of the mast where the ball stop hooks into. Changing to Dyneema is possible, but not very efficient.
+1 it looks like this.