5/32 " 1X19 VINYL COATED ss WIRE

downhaul and outhaul are very powerful on my boat
also in med air i will crack off the traveler an inch or 2 from center - this wont help vmg but will help depower a bit
jibs at 110 is typical for non self tacking jibs but i do swap between my 5.5 and 6.0 jib depending on wind -
a poorly trimmed jib (or main) is not your friend - consider getting the jib cut down a bit or your sheeting blocks moved to improve fit?
MN3
The jib blocks are nominal for adjustment. They only move fore and aft to change angle on the clew; kind of hard to open/close the slot effectively. A tweaker or different block arrangement may be in order as there's effectively no class for my boat and I'm not a "serious racer". A new regular or 90% jib actually may help a bit.

Trapezing off a 21SE wing is a wild ride when you fly a full. You are already up off the water before you fly a hull. I never flipped mine for fear of fighting it, but solo trapezing off the wing is a blast. I agree just like the H18, the job adjustment is minimal. I agree with easing out the traveler to help keep the hull down when the wind picks up.
Scott
Hobie 18M in Chicago




another NYC snowstorm so on line and asking if anyone has experience with a bench/wing for Dart 18? had factory wings on a prindle 16 (stolen) and a Hobie 18 sold /replaced by Nacra 570 but we lost One bench in a capsize and am searching for ONE N570 BENCH,purchased a pair of aluminum benches for far too much$ from a vendor/sailor on this site, they weighed 4x stock benches,despite cost we threw them away and im a "saver". Today I re- reviewed a Practical Sailor article 1/27/21 on Sailboat Rig Inspection Tips, the addendum at bottom by Drew Frye advises NEVER use coated wire and explains dyneema failures eg knotting it, also reviewed anchoring-for those of you who moor cats like i do was informative although I use much heavier chain and mushrooms in Great South Bay, Danforth in Fort Lauderdale
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